This is my second version of a Hackduino. I built the first one on
a Radio Shack PC board (solderable breadboard) with a triple-pad IC
layout. It turned out to be, essentially, an Arduino Duemilanove clone,
complete with headers for plugging in shields. The result was more than
satisfactory, but I needed a denser parts layout this time.

I wanted a Hackduino that would run at 3.3 volts (but retaining 5 volt compatibility),
which would permit direct interfacing with 3.3v sensors and peripherals
(and with a Raspberry Pi!) without having to use level shifters.
It would be also be nice to have an on-board plug-in socket for a Nokia 5110 display,
since that (allegedly) runs on 3.3v. Headers for shields were superfluous because I
already had laying around quite a number of factory-built Arduinos that
would serve that purpose. Result: a tailor-made special purpose Hackduino.
Let's call it a Hacduino.

I build this one on a stripboard and that proved to be more suitable
than a solderable breadboard for a dense and efficient parts layout.
It's especially useful when there are terminal points with multiple

Features of the Mark II Hacduino:
  1. On/off power switch
  2. Switchable between 3.3v and 5v to the Vcc buss (& voltage indicator?)
  3. D13 LED can be enabled/disabled by a jumper
  4. Wired on-board socket for a Nokia 5110 monochrome display
  5. Uses standard (cheap) hole-through ATMega328 chip
  6. Highly customizable -- can optionally add extra header strips for power and I/O.


An ATMega 328 powered at 3.3 volts with a 16 MHz clock is running out
of spec. Effectively, it is overclocked. I have not had any problems with
this, but I certainly would not run an overclocked CPU on mission critical
projects, such as controlling industrial machinery or even home automation.
For hobby purposes, it should be just fine, though.

Step 1: What You Will Need

  1. Stripboard
  2. 1 or 2  2-position pc board screw terminals
  3. ATMega328 (28-pin hole-through version)
  4. 7805 voltage regulator (5v)
  5. LM1117T-3.3 voltage regulator (3.3v)
  6. 1N4001 diode
  7. resettable polyfuse
  8. 100 uF capacitor (25v)
  9. 100 uF capacitor (10v)
  10. 3 - 5 .1uF capacitors
  11. 2 - 22 pF capacitors
  12. 2 - 1K  resistors [R1, R2]
  13. 10K resistor [R3]
  14. 1 - 16 Mhz crystal
  15. 2 - LEDs (each a different color)
  16. mini-pushbutton switch (normally open)
  17. 2-gang 3-position paddle switch
  18. 2 strips 40-pin female header
  19. strip of 6-pin male header, straight
  20. strip of 6-pin male header, bent (optional)
  21. strip of 3-pin male header
  22. 1 - 28-pin (narrow) IC socket
  23. 2.1 mm coaxial (power) jack, panel mount
  24. 2.54 mm pc board jumper
  25. 1 - two-position screw-terminal block (second one optional)
  26. 2 - female-to-male Dupont-type jumper cables
  27. Nokia 5110 display, or equivalent **
  28. Panel meter, miniature, 0 - 30 volts (optional)
  29. Spacer (2" approx.), and 1/8" bolt with two nuts (optional)
  30. Small case (I used a "cream cheese storage container," $1 at Big Lots)
  31. hookup wire
  32. solder
  33. removable adhesive putty, picture/poster mounting type *
            * (useful for holding components in place during soldering)

** Note that some of the cheaper 5110 displays sold on eBay are a bit odd.
    Some require 3.3v on the display's Vcc pin, but others may need 2.9v,
    or even something between 4v and 5v, even with the logic pins at 3.3v.
    Best to find a trusted source for these, even if you have to pay a
    bit extra. And even a good 5110 display has relatively low contrast,
    as compared to a standard backlit 16x2 LCD. That is an inherent
    shortcoming of these displays.

  1. Soldering iron, fine tipped
  2. Needlenosed pliers
  3. Wire stripper
  4. Wire cutting shears (Plato or equivalent)
  5. Drill
  6. Rotary tool, Dremel or equivalent [and goggles or other type of eye protection]
  7. Clamp or vise suitable for holding a small PC board while soldering (optional)

If anyone is interested in the Arduino sketch for interfacing<br> this Hacduino to the <a href="http://mightyohm.com/blog/products/geiger-counter/" rel="nofollow">Mighty Ohm geiger counter</a>&nbsp;mentioned in the final step,<br> see the last two posts in <a href="http://www.mightyohm.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=3431" rel="nofollow">this forum thread</a>.

About This Instructable




Bio: hobbyist, tinkerer, old curmudgeon
More by thegrendel:The HacqueBoard The Arduino / TFT LCD Connection Using an In-System Programmer 
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