I came across a Hose Reel for $4.00 at the Sally Ann. Just what I need for the front yard but no where to mount it.
I have some salvaged chain link fence posts so I decided to cement one in to the ground to mount the reel on, that was away from the house for easy use.
Then I thought wouldn't it be nice if the reel would swivel so when the hose was being unrolled you didn't have to worry about it binding and kinking.
So instead of using one pipe I used two, one in the ground and the other a slightly larger diameter slid over it to mount the reel on.

Step 1: Materials

3 ft. of 1 ⅞" OD pipe (to mount the reel on)
3½ ft. of 1 ⅝" OD pipe (to cement in the ground)
Two ¼ "x 3" stainless steel bolts, lock nuts and washers
A large washer or a steel flange with a 1 ⅝" hole (to use as a friction plate)
One spring loaded Bi-Fold Top Door Pivot (optional)
or a 2 ½" bolt (to use as a locking catch)
Torpedo level
Cement
Post hole diggers
White Lithium grease

Step 2: Setting Post

First take the 1 ⅝" pipe and put a mark 21 inches from one end of the pipe, this is the amount of pipe you want above ground.
Dig a hole 2 ft. deep with a post hole digger, mix the cement and fill the hole to the top. Smooth the cement flush with the ground then insert the pipe into the cement, centre of the hole till you reach your mark and you have 21 inches of pipe above ground. Use a torpedo level to plumb the post then let the cement set for 2 Days.

Step 3: Mount the Reel on 1 ⅞" Pipe

Now when mounting the reel to the 1 ⅞" pipe you have to make sure that the reel is bolted on high enough as not to bottom out on the pipe in the ground Make sure the lowest bolt is more than 21 inches above the ground.

Step 4: Flange Washers

Having a flange stops the top pipe from wearing the concrete and allows for smoother swivelling. I also sprayed the 1 ⅝" pipe with white lithium grease. At this point I assembled the reel and attached the hose but when I started to wind the hose on I found it was awkward to do because of the swivelling motion.
An easy fix I'll just drill a hole though both pipes and use a bolt for a locking pin. Tried it and winding the hose was a lot easier.
At this point I could have left it and said done! Just use a bolt as the locking Pin but not me.

Step 5: Internal Locking Pin

These next steps are optional, a bolt as the locking pin works just fine and you can always attach it to the pipe with string or wire so it doesn't get misplaced.

I wanted to see if I could make a Internal locking pin so I modified a spring loaded Bi-Fold door pivot that I had to fit inside the 1 ⅝" pipe

Step 6: Modifying Door Pivot

I started by measuring the door pivot to fit inside the 1 ⅝" pipe then cut the end off.
The barrel of the door pivot is hexagonal and a 3/16 inch nut fits just inside the cut end so I silver solder one to cap the shortened barrel. BUT before you do that you have to cut and drill the pin.

Step 7: Cut Pin

I placed the pin inside the barrel and nut on top of the pin and measured. I got ⅝ of an inch, this is the amount you have to cut off the pin and the amount you have to drill out for the spring. I also rounded the nose of the pin down before I put it all back together.
I put the pin and the spring back in the barrel and then soldered the nut in place.

Step 8: Install Pin

I decided to put the pin an inch and a half from the top of the 1 ⅝ inch pipe.
Measured from top to the ground and subtracted an inch and a half. Slid the 1 ⅞ inch pipe back over top and drilled a ¼ inch hole through both pipes.
I slipped the larger pipe back off and test fitted the pin. Then I had to drill and countersink a hole on the other side for a #5 flathead screw to hold the pin in place.