I have been making props for over a year and a half now and I was recently commissioned by my friend to make the Elucidator from Sword Art Online. This was a fun commission for me to do and I want to share how I made it and how you can make one yourself!

This build is relatively easy, even for beginners and only requires a couple of basic power tools which are widely accessible to most people. (chances are you already have the power tools needed in your household) This entire build was made only with hand tools, but if you have access to big tools, (like a band saw, or a drill press) take advantage of using them.

This build uses a layering process as opposed to a solid piece being carved; this means that layers are applied to build thickness. This process is a great way to build lots of different kind of props because it means that symmetry is maintained and accuracy for detail is easier to control.

This build took me about 30 hours from start to finish over the course of 2 weeks so don't expect to make a decent prop if you rush it! Take your time on this build and the pay off will be much better.

Step 1: What you will need:

The list of requirements are as follows:


MDF sheets (Metric: 1-1.5mm, 3mm and 6mm) (Imperial: 0.04-0.06, 1/8" and 1/4")

250grams/8 oz of 2 Part Epoxy Putty (Milliput, Apoxie sculpt)

High impact styrene (Metric: 1mm) (Imperial: 0.80")

PVC pipe (Metric: 25mm outer diameter) (Imperial: 1" outer diameter)

Pine dowel (same outer diameter as the PVC pipe inner diameter)

Threaded rod (Metric: 6-12mm diameter) (Imperial: 1/4-1/2" diameter)

Filler (wood filler, body filler)


Jig saw (or similar electric saw)

Power drill (or drill press if you have access)

Various Files/Rasps

Various clamps (about a dozen)

Filler/Putty spreader

Hacksaw (for cutting metal)

X-acto knife

Orbital sander (optional)

Dremel rotary tool (optional)


PVA/Wood glue

Gorilla glue (Expanding Polyurethane glue)

Sandpaper (60, 80, 120, 200, 400, 800 grit)

Cheap liquid Super glue (check out step 7 to see why you want cheap liquid super glue)

High build/Filler primer

Black/Silver spray paint

Matt clear coat

Masking tape

Going to use this base method for a kill la kill scissor blade.
<p>Awesome! </p>
<p>This is a great Instructable!</p>
<p>Thank you!</p>
<p>Hi I am planning on making this sword for a cos play and would like to know what size paper you printed the blueprints on.</p><p>Thanks in advance: Liam</p>
<p>I printed my blueprints at a printer store so I got mine printed as one big sheet, however if you were to break down the blueprints into parts, you could print the length of the sword with 4 Letter/A4 pieces of paper and tape them together. Hope this helps</p>
<p>Two questions: #1. How durable is the sword shown above. Like hardness and strength. And #2. Would it be possible to make a PVC version of this?</p>
<p>#1. As far as strength goes, it's easily strong enough to hold its own weight and it can be swung around but I wouldn't really want to forcibly hit things with it as MDF isn't really made to withstand impact. #2. If you mean like PVC sheets and pipe then I would definitely say so; you can make this with all sorts of materials depending on your application and use for it.</p>
<p>hi, I'm making this for my kirito cosplay and I was wondering what the width of the blade. I saw earlier that you said 4.2 cm, however this confused me as to which blade you were referring to? If you could tell me the width of all the blades please.</p>
<p>On my template, the 1.5mm sheet of MDF is 4.20 cm wide down the length of the blade shaft and the thicker 6mm sheets are 3.10 cm wide down the blade shaft. Hope this clears it up.</p>
<p>where did you get the blueprints from </p>
<p>I made it myself using basic imaging software, specifically for this 'Ible so those who want to make the sword can download it for free. </p>
First off awesome build! I'm putting a price list together right now. But I'm having trouble finding MDF that is 1-1.5mm thick. Any other suggestions? Also I noticed your wrote 0.80-0.100 inches. This is incorrect as 0.100 is 1/10 and .080 is 8/10 or 4/5 which is almost an inch. It should be written as 0.080-0.100 (or simply 0.08-0.1). Just a little math problem for you. Even though I live in USA and use imperial measurements daily, I find it stupid and prefer metric... Anyway! This is an amazing build and I can't wait to finish it. Thanks for the instructable.
<p>Thanks for letting me know; I'm surprised no one noticed it before now. I actually got it wrong completely, 1mm is 0.04 and 1.5mm is 0.06 (I believe so anyway) and I've updated it. As for finding the MDF, model shops are your best bet as thin MDF can be used for model making. I got my stuff from here. http://modelshop.co.uk/Shop/Item/MDF-sheet-500-x-1000mm/ITM7014</p>
<p>Do you think I could make this out of foamboard? I'd have to work around though, since the only foamboard I have is 4.7 mm thick. </p>
I don't see why not, although obviously it won't be as strong as wood. I guess if you layered the foamboard 3 times, (making it 14.1 mm thick) you can use an x-acto or utility knife with a steel ruler and bevel the blade and the curved areas; that's just one way of approaching it anyway.
<p>How big is this In Real Life</p>
<p>The full length from the tip of the blade to the pommel is 110cm/43.3 inches; Step 2 on this Instructable shows the measurements on the blueprints.</p>
Duuuude this thing is awesome +1 well done
<p>Nice sword! I looks awesome.</p>
<p>Thanks! </p>
can you make these two for around 100$ and minus the fancy on the sword if you can ill see with my parents
<p>I'm afraid I'm not able to do outside commissions, what with my college study and my part time job, I'm simply not able to invest the time needed to make these items. </p>
oops forgot to tell you i want it with wood
<p>I just started watching SAO; I got recommended to watch it, and in the anime, its a heavy sword, i'm thinking of making it as my one-handed training weapon, and adding a metal weight in the center of the blade might act as a strengthener and make it more like Kirito's blade, so, what is this swords weight?</p>
actual sword would be 72\3 pounds
<p>Well I can't say for certain how heavy it was because I do not own it any more, but it was fairly light and it could be wielded fairly easily. If you want to use this for training, I wouldn't recommend making it out of MDF, instead I would recommend a hardwood like red oak or poplar and carve it to shape; this also means you won't need to use a metal weight to support the length. Hope this helps.</p>
<p>Thanks for the info, I actually have been carving a red oak plank, cheaper, and it is looking really great, I'll flash a pic of finished product.</p>
<p>what is the width of the blade?</p><p>trying to make slighty variated version of this so it does not take up as much material.</p>
<p>What was the width of the blade?</p>
<p>Imperial is 1.66 inches (or 1 2/3 of an inch). Metric is 4.20 cm</p>
<p>how did you print the template?</p>
<p>Well in my case, I had access to a massive printer so I could just print it in one go. It's unlikely that people have access to a massive printer so in your case (and most others), you'll need to print the image in sections and join them together with tape once the sheets are printed out.</p><p>Alternatively, you could go to a printing shop and pay them to print out the image on a USB stick at full size; that's the only other solution I can think of.</p>
Why did you use MDF and is there another material that could be used instead?
<p>MDF is simply the material that I wanted to use because it's cheap and I like working with it. You can use other materials that you prefer, such as PVC sheet or other kinds of wood; it's really down to what material you like working with and what tools you have on hand to use.</p>
<p>how long did it take for you to make this?</p>
<p>This took about 2 weeks; a few hours every day and that excludes planning time. If you do make one for Dragon con in the future, I would love to see</p>
<p>nice Will do.</p>
<p>looks great I want to do this cosplay next year for Dragon con.</p>
<p>Looks amazing! </p><p>... but I'm curious, how did you make sure you'd get a nice strait drill when you drilled out the hole in the wooden dowel for the handle? </p>
<p>That's a good question you've provided. Without a drill press handy (which I didn't) it's quite tricky to get it straight. I tend to have a good eye for drilling straight, plus my drill had the added benefit of having a spirit level built in, which shows when the drill is straight. The only options you have is mark the centre by drawing 2 lines across the handle and mark the area where the 2 lines cross, or have a drill handy that it set at a 90 degree angle.</p>
I'm a huge Sao fan...good job!!
I LOVE SAO :O good job :)))
<p>Looks great! </p>
<p>If your pipe is a little too tight on the dowel, that's perfect. Use a heat gun (no, I actually didn't say a torch would work if you're really careful) and heavy gloves to gradually heat the plastic pipe until it becomes pliable, but still retains shape. Blow the hot air through the center as well as on the outside for even heating. When it's pliable, it will also have expanded just a little. After doing a test fit with a small piece to make sure it will work, slip the warm, soft, expanded pipe over the wood dowel. Have a good mark or stop in place so you can get it right the first time. As it cools, you'll get a clean, glueless joint that will never loosen.</p>
<p>Thanks for the tip! A tighter fit is definitely better than a looser fit. I did consider using my heat gun for the same reason, but I wanted this instructable to have tools that are easily accessible, and I don't consider a heat gun as a regular tool that everyone has.</p>

About This Instructable




Bio: Hello all, I have always been a creative kind of person who loves building and making things. Since October 2012, I decided I want to ... More »
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