Introduction: THE BED

Picture of THE BED

The idea

Bed frames are often expensive and had a bad quality. If you build up or break down one more than a few times it’s often broken. However, with this instruction the problem is solved.

The idea is to build a bed without nails or screws, easy to build up and break down and it shouldn’t too use much space for storage when it isn’t in use. I started to research and was inspired by (steck_bar, ect.).

I decided to construct and design a simplified low budget bed.

The measures of the mattress I used were 100cm x 200cm.

It is pretty important to make sure that your bed is the right size because after the construction a change would be difficult.

Step 1: Gather Materials and Tools

Picture of Gather Materials and Tools

What you'll need:

Materials:

You can build the bed from other materials ore use other measure as well. However,for
mine this construction worked best.

  • 2x spruce beam ( 9,4cm x 4,4cm x 2500cm )
  • 1x spruce beam ( 4,4cm x 4,4cm x 2000cm )
  • 7x spruce slats ( 2,4cm x 44cm x 2000cm )
  • 1x spruce board ( 1,9cm x 9,5cmx 2000cm )
  • 28x dowel (2x14 = 28)
  • 2x side release buckle straps 140cm for army (25mm nylon, olive)

Tools:

  • safety gear (goggles, ear plugs,gloves, etc.)
  • tape measure, ruler, square
  • clamps (large and small)
  • pencil
  • drill ,drill bit (countersink)
  • mitre block
  • hand circular saw (or table sew)
  • japanese saw (or hand sew)
  • firmer chisel (I used 2 different sizes)
  • 2 dowel centre points
  • hammer (mallet)
  • rasp
  • sander (or sandpaper ca.120 grit)

Let's start!

Step 2: Cutting the Beams to Size

Picture of Cutting the Beams to Size

I used a hand circular saw to cut the beams. First, I added an extra piece of wood to it so the saw would be more accurate as I pushed it along. I adjusted it to the right measures and started cutting.

Make sure you use clamps to push down your beams to get similar cuts also gravity will want to pull the wood down.

Once I cut the main beams, I continued with the slats.

The hand circular saw is one of the noisiest tools. So use ear plugs ;)

Step 3: Mark, and Cut Out the Gaps

Picture of Mark, and Cut Out the Gaps

I used my ruler and a square to mark the locations of the gaps where the slats will be placed in. This step is important because it has to fit.

After cutting you can easily break out the pieces. Use the rasp to cut the gap smooth.

This step takes the most time.

Step 4: Cut Out the Edges

Picture of Cut Out the Edges

Mark the part that should be cut.

Use the japanese sew to cut the edges from the laths.

I used a mitre block to cut in correct angle.

Step 5: Mark, Drill, and Countersink the Holes for the Dowels

Picture of Mark, Drill, and Countersink the Holes for the Dowels

Mark the spruce slats in the center with correct distance to the border, now you can easily drill holes in them.

The dowels make the slats stay centered in the gap on the beam. I marked the holes in the beam with an automatic center punch as you can see in the picture above.

After that you can put the dowels in the slats using a hammer (mallet).

Step 6: Shaping and Sanding

Picture of Shaping and Sanding

Sand the edges.

The bed should have no risk of injury so I cut all the edges.

At the end I sanded the whole frame.

Step 7: Making the Straps

Picture of Making the Straps

I got thoes buckle straps cheap from an army shop, but you can use other too.

Take one buckle strap and twist the end of the second through the slot of the bucket like in the picture above.

The strep is perfect to transport the laths in one pack.

Step 8: The Bed Is Complete!

Picture of The Bed Is Complete!

You're done!

My idea was that the bed should be easy to build up or break down.

And I have to say: Yes it is!

It takes about 2-3 minutes to assemble, and disassemble. Stick it together and you are done! All parts can be taken apart (tying them with the buckle straps) and transported in nearly every car because it's lightweight and compact (disassembled just a pack and 2 beams).

Add your mattress and use.

If you have any questions or need assistance building the Bed, feel free to contact me.

I hope you liked this instructable and will try it yourself, Feel free to send pictures and vote for me in the Contests!

Enjoy your bed! ;-)

Masterartwork


Comments

CraftAndu (author)2016-05-22

Hi, great project! Though I have one guestion - Why? I mean you could just lay the mattress on the floor and spare the 2-3 minutes?

Masterartwork (author)CraftAndu2016-05-23

Hi akullerkann,

Thank you very much! That's an important question.

First of all, I think sleeping on a mattress upon a platform is more comfortable than laying, with your mattress, on the ground.

Another significant point is, that mattresses should be able to breath, therefore a slatted platform like THE BED is necessary. When your matress is lying on the floor, moisture (we produce in our sleep) is retained, and combined with a lack of light, provides the perfect breeding ground for mold. How quickly this happens depends on, the type of flooring, the temperature in your bedroom ect.

Mold under the mattress can cause mild to severe health issues.

In the end, health is important to all of us ;-)

I hope that I have answered your question.

Masterartwork ;)

Meglymoo87 (author)2016-05-19

Good job :)

Masterartwork (author)Meglymoo872016-05-20

Thanks!

I'm glad you like it ;-)

BirgitJansen (author)2016-05-16

Very nice and solid construction. One question though. What's your thought on leaving the dowels glued in the beam, not the slaps? That way when you take it apart, the slaps are easier to tie together with out the dowels sticking out. Or do you think that would make the construction more unstable?

Hi BrigitJansen,

Thank you so much! This is a good question and was one of the things I was thinking about planning the project.

For me this way worked best. The laths are thin and the holes in the beams are bigger than the dowels in the laths(about 1 mm/inch = ca. 0.04 inch).

-dowels (8mm/ca.0,35inch)

- holes for the dowels (9mm/ca.35inch) with countersink (13mm/ca.0,51inch)

➔ laths (24mm /ca.0,95inch)

➔ beams (44mm /ca.1,73inch)

I think it doesn't make a difference whether the dowels are in the lats or in the beams.

The dowels in the laths are also a secure against sliding out of the straps in pack.

I hope this project will work for you and I have answered your questions.

Masterartwork ;)

Makes total sense, thank you! :-)

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