Several weeks ago, watching this instructable TATTED NECKLACE I fell in love with this beautiful necklace.

But ... Surprise! The tutorial was poorly explained and unfinished.

Then I began to surf the internet, to learn needle tatting, look for patterns and uncover the secrets of this beautiful art manual.

Finally, after many tests and failed attempts, after many hours looking one solution to make the necklace, I managed to decipher how to create it.

It is for this reason I decided to share it with you all because, like me, many people had stopped asking posts to the author's instructable to finish loading, and for months we have not received a reply.

I hope you can understand it correctly, and you can finally make a nice necklace, for yourselves or to give away.

HAPPY CHRISTMAS AND HAPPY NEW YEAR 2009

Lunatics kisses!

Step 1: BEADS NEEDLE & ADDING BEADS

This first step is very important!

Before starting the work, we have to introduce all the beads in the yarn that are going to need for our work. The beads stay in the yarn of the ball, waiting to be used when necessary.

Note:

If we are not sure of the exact total amount of beads that we need to work, you should make sure and make several more beads. It is better for us on beads that we are not missing.

To enter the beads in the yarn, I use several hours looking for a needle that would be adequate, but none of those I had in my house went well. So I decided to create my own beads needle.

It is very simple: We take a piece of thin nylon fishing thread, between 7 and 10 cm long, fold it in half and make a knot with both ropes by half the length. Then gently and with the help of a lighter, heat the tips of both to melt the nylon ropes and squeeze between your fingers to unite them. Ideally, we would be as you see in the picture.

Step 2: PREPARING THE MATERIAL TO WORK

Once you've entered all beads required to work in the yarn, spend the yarn through the hole of the tatting needle, and we'll get a desktop color that contrast with the work, to give us good work.

We have the yarn in the ball, with the beads, we're going to use for our work. In the needle, we have the yarn that we need to go through inside the points of all the work. The yarn is the same, but we'll start in the middle of the thread, leaving on the right, the needle, all the necessary long yarn to mount the structure of the piece. For this reason, we need to leave a fairly long yarn in the needle.

Material needed:
1 ball of cotton yarn (45 gr)
1 beads needle (I explain how to do it in the previous step)
1 tatting needle (size accord your size yarn)
1 crochet hook (size accord your size yarn)
100 crystal beads aprox. (not recommended plastic beads, because if you need to iron the work, they can be wrong)

Note:

Try to choose a range of colors for wool and accounts, to coordinate properly.

That's all friends!

Step 3: MAKING THE DOUBLE STITCH: FIRST HALF

The Double Stitch (abrev. ds)

Is the basic stitch for tatting. It consists of two halves, which are two knots around the needle, a right and following the setback, as you can see in this and the next step of the Instructable.

First half of stitch

Yarn in left hand is from ball. Insert the needle as shown, then remove finger and pull yarn tight to put stitch on needle.

Step 4: MAKING THE DOUBLE STITCH: SECOND HALF

Second half of stitch

Insert the needle as shown, then remove finger and pull yarn tight to put stitch on needle.

Note:

It is very important to tighten the stitches, so that work will be clean and compact, and then the stitches we were not open or we stretch more than they should.

Likewise, it is equally important to choose the appropriate size of the needle for each thickness of the yarn that we will use. The needle should never be thicker that the yarn of our work.

Step 5: MAKING a PICOT

Picot stitch (abrev. p)

Complete first half of the stitch as before, but use your right hand finger to keep a space between stitches already on the needle and the first half of the stitch.

Note:

The Picots are used to join different forms and pieces of work, and are also decorative elements of the piece.

For this reason, when Picot is used to join pieces, we do shorter, but since then, going through the yarn Picot and stretch, we too could enlarge the hole and leave the dirty work and poor finishing . In contrast, when Picot is used of decorative, we will do so as long as we want them or dictate the pattern of design that we are doing.

Step 6: BASIC FORMS: CHAINS AND RINGS

In the art of tatting are 2 basic stitches, the Double Stitch (ds) and Picot stitch (p).

So too are two basic ways to mount these stitches, the chain (Ch) and ring (R).

The chain is a series of stitches, through which passes the yarn and is not closed.

The ring is a series of points, through which passes the yarn, closing at the end to form the ring.

The chains and rings can be formed from different stitches of succession, alternating between Double stitch and Picot stitch.

So we can find patterns such as these:

Ch-4p2p2p2p4-yo (yo is yarn over, through inside the stitches)

R-6p6-Cl (Cl is close the ring)

Step 7: MAKING a RING

Ring (abrev. R)

Let's make our first ring!

First assemble 6 ds, we Picot 1, and once more mounting 6 ds.

Then we just have to close the ring, passing the yarn of the needle through the stitches, but with his left hand holding the end of the yarn where the work begins, forming a loop through which pass the needle to close the ring.

In a pattern we find well annotated: R-6p6-Cl

Note:

If you look at the images displayed can see how close the ring in detail.

Step 8: BEGINNING THE NECKLACE!

We'll begin the necklace following the pattern. Continue the instructions of pattern:

1- R-6p6-Cl-rw (rw means turn the work)
2- Ch-6p6B6-yo-rw (B means a bead, which will introduce at work at the same space that could do a Picot)

Notes:

To add a bead, you only need to raise it by up to the thread the needle, and then we make the following stitches.

At each step of instructable, adding will go shorthand notation that you have gone home to more familiar.

Also you have the support of photos and illustrations to clarify how it should be the shape of the piece you are doing at every moment.

Step 9: SECOND RING & SECOND CHAIN

Work will continue to follow the pattern. We will make the second ring, we first put 6 ds on the needle, and then replace the Picot, linking the work to the Picot stitch of the first ring, therefore, with the help of a crochet needle, pass the yarn of ball through the Picot stitch of first ring, and put the loop on the needle closer to the yarn, then continue adding more 6 ds to the needle, and finally close the second ring as usual.

We will continue to make the second chain (REMEMBER: we need to turn the work every time), this time, add first 6 ds to the needle, then add a bead, over 6 ds, a Picot, and 6 ds more, and finally , pass the yarn through theneedle stitches, to continue the work.

Continue the instructions of pattern:

3- R-6+6-Cl-rw
4- Ch-6B6p6-yo-rw

Step 10: NEXT STEPS: THE BOTTOM OF NECKLACE

This part of the necklace, is the bottom, which willdo to return to finish the job.

The necklace is completed in the middle of work, but we could change the pattern to finish at one end. For now, we will start in this order and assembly of the first piece, which is very useful to go over and check the performance the work being done properly all the necessary stitches and forms.

Continue the instructions of pattern:

5- R-6+6-Cl-rw
6- Ch-6-yo-rw
7- R-4p2p2p2p4-Cl-rw
8- Ch-6-yo-rw
9- R-6p6-Cl-rw
10- Ch-6+6B6-yo-rw (join the chain with the Picot stitch of chain after)
11- R-6+6-Cl-rw (join the ring with the first ring, that not is joined with other, of this part)
12- Ch-6B6p6-yo-rw
13- R-6+6-Cl-rw

Step 11: NEXT STEPS: THE TOP OF NECKLACE

This part of the necklace is up to the top, which will start to work, and that will determine the length of our necklace.

Note:

We must keep in mind that, once attached to the bottom, is one third of their original long. It is for this reason that we should measure the length of the first module finished, to calculate how many modules you need to complete our necklace to desired length.

Continue the instructions of pattern:

14- Ch-6-yo-rw
15- R-6+6-Cl-rw (join the yarn with the first Picot stitch of big ring with 4 Picots)
16- Ch-2B2B2B2-yo-rw
(Repeat 15 to 16 4 times, for any Picot stitch of big ring)
17- Ch-6-yo-rw
18- R-6+6-Cl-rw (join the yarn with the 3 rings at bottom part)
19- Ch-6-yo-rw

Step 12: MAKING THE TOP PART OF MODULES

And at this time when we have completed the first module of the necklace, and we will begin to make the top of the necklace, and then close the work with the bottom.

Starting a chain with 6 ds.

Continue the instructions of pattern:

19- Ch-6-yo-rw
20- R-6p6-Cl-rw
21- Ch-2B2B2B2-yo-rw
(Repeat 20 to 21, 4 times)
22- Ch-6-yo-rw
23- R-6p6-Cl-rw

Repeat steps 19-23, which form the top of a module, as many times as needed to achieve the desired length for our necklace.

Step 13: NEXT STEPS: THE BOTTOM OF NECKLACE

Once we have made the top of our necklace, let's start with the bottom, to be closing the modules that make it well and finish the necklace.

The top of the modules is completed in step 23, whatever the number of repeated modules as our needs.

First, we close this final module following the same pattern established in the initial module.

We will continue with the pattern:

24- Ch-6B6p6-yp-rw
25- R-6+6-Cl-rw
26- Ch-6p6B6-yo-rw
27- R-6+6-Cl-rw
28- Ch-6B6p6-yo-rw
29- R-6+6-Cl-rw

Step 14: MAKING THE BOTTOM PART OF MODULES

And finally, we arrived at the beginning of the end of our work. The bottom of the modules.

This is uniting the various rings on top, following the pattern established in modules at both ends of the necklace.

We will continue the pattern:

30- Ch-6-yo-rw
31- R-4+2+2+2+4-Cl-rw (Here we make the big ring, linking the 4 picots the rings at the top of the module, closing at the end as usual in the rings)
32- Ch-6-yo-rw
33- R-6+6-Cl-rw (This ring must join with the central ring is located between modules)
34- Ch-6+6B6-yo-rw (This chain is linked to Picot stitch in the chain of previous module, to bring together the various modules of the necklace)
35- R-6+6-Cl-rw
36- Ch-6B6p6-yo-rw (Picot stitch of this chain is then join the lower part of the next module)

Step 15: ENDING NECKLACE

Repeat steps 30-36, which form the bottom of a module, as many times as needed to end our necklace.

Finally, when you reach the top of the latest module yet to join, finish the work by joining the first module we created at the beginning of the collar.

At this time, in step 36, instead of making a Picot stitch, will join the thread with Picot stitch of bottom of the module's initial necklace, so close to the bottom, and thus able to complete the module with the big ring inside.

We will continue the pattern:

36 (special ending)- Ch-6b6+6-yo-rw
37- R-6+6-Cl-rw
38- Ch-6-yo-rw
39- R-4+2+2+2+4-Cl-rw
40- Ch-6+ (join with initial ring)-yo

MAKE A SMAL KNOT & CUT THE THREAD!

Now we will just add the closures of the collar, sewing items in Picots left empty at both ends of the necklace.

And enjoy!