Step 9: Weld!

Hold the tungsten electrode about an inch away from the metal. Never touch the metal with the electrode. If you do, molten aluminum will leap onto the electrode. If this happens, stop, turn off the welder, remove the tungsten rod , and grind it down.

Jam down on the foot-pedal to quickly dump a bunch of current and heat into the metal.

The idea is to very quickly heat the metal and start the weld pool. You'll know it when you see it - the metal becomes fluid.

Start on an edge.

When the pool has formed, touch the rod in.

If you heat the metal for too long, it will warp. The longer the metal is heated, the more it will warp.

This is a "tack" weld, to hold the metal piece in place, so you can take off the clamps and do big long bead welds.

Once you have a weld pool started, you can ease off the pedal a little, to control the amount of heat and current being applied to the metal.

Welds shrink as they cool, so you can alternate sides to keep the welds even, and to keep one side of metal from getting too hot and warping. Hot metal can warp a great deal, and if you don't change sides, you might find yourself even 1/4" off of where the metal ought to be.
<p>Nice overview on TIG process. Yes the process can be used to make tricky welds. Also it produces high profile welds as compared to other processes like stick, oxyacetylene etc. rod grinding, type of gas shielding are the primary concerns. also found some useful about TIG </p><p><a href="http://www.weldpedia.com/2015/03/learn-to-weld-using-tig-welding-process.html" rel="nofollow">http://www.weldpedia.com/2015/03/learn-to-weld-usi...</a></p>
Hi, just for complementing, there is a leather gorget also available for protecting the neck. Sounds medieval, but it's true :)
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Weld-TIG/<br>Hmm... your 'ible looks very very similar to stasterisks...
looks like a direct copy to me, really people.
Good basic write up - just a couple comments: <br> <br>The radioactivity of Thoriated Tungsten is a non-issue. If it's the best electrode for the job, use it and dont worry about it. Thoriated Tungsten works great with 4130 alloys. <br> <br>Pure Tungsten is *not* always the best choice for Aluminum. I prefer 1.5% Lanthinated Tungsten for the sole reason it performs equally well with both steel and aluminum for multiple alloys. <br> <br>If possible, when grinding the tip it should be directed away from the point to avoid driving impurities into the electrode. Definitely do not grind the tungsten perpendicular plane of rotation of the grinding stone - your arc may get unpredictable wander
I agree with Sleepismything92. Your welds need improvement. I've been welding for a little over a decade now and am certified in Arc, Mig, Tig and Flux Core. <br> <br>Another thing to consider is that while pure tungsten is recommended for aluminum, I find that I get much better results with 2% Thoriated. You can use it for pretty much any type of metal. <br> <br>Also, you missed a step when setting up the gas. Usually you are going to want to set the gauge to about 25 cfm if you are welding indoors with little to no wind. If you are in more of a windy environment, you can crank it up to around 40 cfm. And always remember to try and block the wind as much as possible. <br> <br>When you are making your weld, there are two primary methods. Freehand and walking the cup. I prefer freehand beads but it is good to know both. <br> <br>The other thing is that you seem to have missed talking about Mig welding entirely.
Im a tig welder, and i can manage to make a very strong weld while at the same time having a very appealing appearance. On your picture of the aluminum welds in the last step, you don't even have complete fusion in the welds. You should try using slightly more heat, with your high frequency set all the way to full penetration, then dip the rod in more frequently<br><br>

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