loading

Step 1: TURRET

Step 2: BARREL BODY GRIP

Step 3: HANDLE TRIGGER

Step 4: STOCK

Ignore the outdated outdated handle and trigger.

Step 5: FIRING PIN

Video coming soon 05/01/2015

Step 6: FINAL ASSEMBLY

Step 8: UPDATES

See my YouTube channel to stay up to date on all the latest changes to the TR8.

<p>Here's mine. My only problems with it were that the trigger only blocked half of the firing pin, and thus caused occasional misfires. Also, after the slide had been pulled back, it had to be carefully guided back to the front of the gun, or else the gun would have misfired.</p>
<p>use a size 64 rubber band on the trigger this will set the trigger properly each time you charge the gun preventing any problems see my YouTube channel for further assistance </p>
<p>Thanks for the advice! I will do that the next time that I build this.</p>
My YouTube channel has the only pictures/video of the most recent trigger btw. Just went through this ible and it is outdated. I have not built much as of lately but eventually i will update the gun ible and perhaps post the SRv3.
<p>Good idea. I will definatly build the SRv3 if you post it.</p>
<p>I just saw you are using the old trigger design lol which did have some trouble use my latest design for more consistent charging see my YouTube videos for more assistance </p>
<p>Actually, I used the one on this page, which is the new one. The problem with it is that it would only block half of the barrel, which caused ocasional misfires.</p>
<p>Rofl it's been like 7 years since I've been here and I can't believe you are still active in this community, or semi-active I guess.</p><p>Just looking at these posts gives me the feels man :'(</p><p>I just want to build this thing again but my mom gave all of my knex away because I stopped playing with it...</p><p>Anyway, cya around 'KillerKyle' ;)</p>
<p>lol good to hear from you hope to cya around more often</p>
<p>I built it! You are so right about the new trigger on YT, it works so much better! There is way less friction, the gun charges better, and the trigger pull is light enough. The slide action with the new trigger is SO SMOOTH! You were not lying about it seeming effortless. I was getting 70 feet with only 3 old #64's and yellow rods, and oodammo really stings on bare skin with those bands too.</p><p>The handle is also much sturdier then on the 2014 version, much much better. I ran around my yard shooting a trees with this gun, charging and shooting while running. The gun feels great and charges fine even when running around.The people who say the TR8 is not that good need to build with the new trigger, 'cause this is the smoothest working K'nex gun I have ever built, and I have built at least 60 different designs. Not to mention this is very accurate, with oodammo I could hit someone consistently at 50 feet.</p><p>PS: The silver spacers on the red rods that keep the trigger block straight, should be taken off. I found that they add extra friction to the trigger block, so it won't move up far enough to block the firing pin sometimes. This sometimes caused the gun to misfire. Other then that I have had no problems whatsoever. </p><p>I love this gun! I can get you some pictures later, if you want them. :)</p>
Happy to hear you like the changes. One of these days i should update the instructions to get reflect the most current design. Do you use a size 64 rubber band on your trigger? If not the trigger may not set as consistently. It would be interesting to see pictures or a video! Again happy to see you like it!
<p>:D</p><p>I did use a #64, if I remember, the issue only happened a couple times. </p><p>Well, it's gone now, but I may rebuild it sometime. It really was an improvment over the old version.</p>
<p>trigger design in testing to see if I can reduce wear to the trigger pin and less friction charging the gun.</p>
<p>I have seen the new trigger. I am planning on building today. TR with new trigger, in metallics, and with a slide. :D</p>
<p>Geez how many different trigger combinations can you come up with for that tiny space? There have been what, 5? trigger designs now?</p>
Hundreds and hundreds this trigger is yet to fail
<p>Haven't you said that about the last one or two as well? I still have the version before this and it has never given me issue before.</p>
I am much more confident with this trigger design over any other
The only end cap I can find is for micro rods. Where did you get yours?
Which size are the rubber tires? Where can I find the cap on the end of the turret on the knex site?
Which of the new pins turned out to be the best? Also, do you happen to know what the cap on the end of the turret is actually called?
The pin I use and is far superior in every way and is yet to fail or show signs of wear is the traditional &quot;Indestructapin&quot; with the o ring. There are 2 different size tires used on the grip. See K'nex.com parts and extras/wheels to see exact specifications
Btw, what size are the tires you are using on the grip?
Btw, what size are the tires you are using on the grip?
Hey killer, nice mods. Could you by any chance make a vid on how to make finammo? I've made it before but I have a feeling I'm not doing it right because they never fly perfectly straight but still fly a god 150 feet out of me and blue mullets LTBBM Weapon of war. I want to know how to make it correctly so I can make mags for it to hold finammo.
<p>I know I'm not KK, but my experiences with fin ammo have been mixed. When I first built the TR, I thought it was pretty bad, and I don't think I got much over 100 feet. I built it again, and worked with the fin ammo some more and got better. The last time I built it I got a very good range of 280 feet. Not very shabby. Bad fin ammo will get poor range. It took at least a hundred tries to get fin ammo working great.</p><p>Also, you need to use red rods for fin ammo. I've tried yellow fin ammo in a TR and it doesn't shoot stright.</p><p>I too, desperately want KK to make a video for fin ammo, since I still struggle with it.</p><p>And yes, the pin on a TR8 can hold 7 bands with no fear of it breaking. The pin guide is well designed and that helps so much.</p>
<p>I built it and it works great!</p>
<p>I finished the gun super great.</p><p>I still have some pieces so I want to make something else.</p><p>I kept one of my 8 shot turrets and would like to make an 8 shot pistol that shoots 100+ feet. Do u have any recommendations? </p><p>Also cutting an end clip is really easy with the saw on the swiss army knife.</p>
<p>Thanks for all the info I think I'm going to make a ball socket by cutting a normal single end clip at the end</p>
<p>ok sounds good </p>
<p>Do I need black rods or do grey ones work</p>
<p>Just finished building mine last night. I ran out of time to make the pin however. I made a makeshift one and I love this thing. Stock is too short for my liking, so I'll change that up. Everything else is on point. It is a very fun gun. I absolutely love the ratcheting turret. Pictures either later today or tomorrow.</p>
<p>see step 8 for a new firing pin design and a trigger update</p>
<p>alright,cool, sorry about no pics, I got busy with schoolwork</p>
I'm excited to see your pics and vid!
I'm glad to hear you like it! The stock is short and simple I can agree with you on that. Good for close quarters and maneuverability tho.
<p>Do u have to have the ball socket or can I replace it with an orange connector?</p>
the gun currently uses 2 ball sockets... 1 on the trigger which if i rearrange the trigger band will allow for use of a 1 slot purple/gray connector... and the ball sock on the firing pin is highly recommended but probably replaceable with an orange connector on the firing pin
So I don't need a ball socket?
<p>you need one on the firing pin see step 8 for updates</p>
use a gray or purple one slot connector on the trigger pin instead of the black ball socket
yes I would say you do but you may be able to get away without one.
<p>I'm going to try and make it without any ball sockets and also can u replace the green 4 position connectors with anything else like 5 position connectors or 3 position connectors</p>
<p>What is the black piece in the last pic of step 3? The one that looks like a one hole end clip but only half of one.</p>
it is a black hinge piece also for the trigger use a 1 slot purple or gray connector instead of the black ball socket it tests it works better and the green rod will stay in place if the trigger band is in place correctly
<p>I'm going to build this soon I have to take apart my D-TAB.</p><p>Looks great</p><p>How far does it shoot?</p>
It shoots fin ammo over 250 and up to 300ft. Depending on the bands and ammo quality
<p>Cool!</p>
<p>Sweet!</p>
Nice work Killa!

About This Instructable

1,637views

15favorites

License:

More by Knex Lego Maniac:TR8-2015 updated 05/01/2015 DAM updated 04/12/2015 K'nex Directional Mine Prototype last updated 09/10/2013 
Add instructable to: