Introduction: TV LCD 48" Motorized Lift Down Ceiling System

Hello to all inventors,

first of all I apologize for my bad English... Google translate has a little helped me.

The project that I want to present today deserves to be documented because we have so much time lost

It all starts from the idea of giving a new look to my bedroom with a beautiful wallpaper and space for a nice LCD TV 48 ".

The main problem is that I not have space for a 22" so I wanted to think outside the box are studying an alternative solution, creating a kind of false ceiling where to place the TV and the mechanism driven by actuators.

Before designing I surfed the web to see existing solutions at low cost. After about a week of research, I am convinced that the most economic solution was to build it on their own because 3,000 euro for a motorized mount was certainly not the budget that I set for myself. I have also found Chinese solutions at a cost of 500 euro but did not convince me in terms of stability and reliability.

Perhaps the hardest part was to design a mechanism that would allow the TV to fall vertically to the first few centimeters and then tilt it toward the bed.

For the mechanism of the project I used software called Linkage2 which simulates the levers and movements.

more info at: http://mircoslepko.blogspot.it/2016/07/sistema-motorizzato-tv-lcd-48.html

Step 1: Idea and Feasibility Study

Picture of Idea and Feasibility Study

To hide the TV on the ceiling you need a structure that can hold with all its mechanism and at the same time that it is pleasing to the eye, and last but not least it is in harmony with the decor.

First you must determine the size of the TV and then sizing all components.

I decided to install a LCD 48" so with a 3D modeling software I set the broad dimensions of the lines on the ceiling and attached with adhesive paper tape to see if everything was in proportion.

After informing my wife that I would do the work and have received his approval I immediately started working.

I hope you find interesting this tutorial.

Step 2: The Project

As I mentioned in the introduction the complicated thing was to design a scissor mechanism that would meet my needs.

The TV once retracted is to get as close as possible to the ceiling and at the same time had to descend and tilt of a certain size and angle.

Thanks to a simulation software (Linkage2) and dozens of attempts I managed to find a good compromise.

With Linkage I got the list of the pieces to be cut.

The wooden box I modeled and dimensioned with Rhino 3D.

For those wishing to try the simulation of the attaching mechanism below the source file.

Step 3: Test Workload

Picture of Test Workload

Before starting the job I wanted to do a simulation in real life to make sure that the software has correctly done its job.

I cut the iron straps 20 x 5mm and drilled as shown in Linkage2.

On an aluminum profile for prototypes i put together all the pieces and tried the mechanism; everything worked as simulation!

Now, to calculate the force needed to hold onto the TV I've got the weight that I have applied to the mechanism and I discovered (by the aspect ratio) and for supporting a weight of about 11Kg serve at least 80Kg thrust from a linear actuator. This test it was very useful to avoid making mistakes in the purchase of the main actuator.

For the type of movement of the lever system it is less advantageous for the actuator which in a short stroke will have to fulfill to the TV a longer journey.

To stay on the safe side I bought a linear actuator 6000 N = 600 Kg.

Step 4: Components

Picture of Components

In addition to some wooden board to realize the box will list below the components I used to make it all work.

N.1 linear actuator 6000 N (600 kg) stroke 320 mm
N.2 linear actuators 1500 N (150 kg) Stroke 150 mmm
N.1 Arduino Uno
N.1 Module 4 relays (to control the actuators 3)
N.1 Module 2 relays (to control the 12V power supply and lighting)
N.1 Radio remote control 4 channels
N.1 Radio receiver
N.1 Power supply 12 V 30 A
N.10 bearings

Various tubular iron and strip 20x5mm

Step 5: The Mechanism Construction

For the construction of the mechanism I used the leftovers you tubular iron.

First I soldered the main frame where it will slide the cart that will trigger the movement.

The sliding carriage is composed of 10 bearings that wrap it securely and without play the 2 arms of the frame.

The LCD 48" who I want to mount has holes compatible with VESA-standard, 400 x 400mm so I also built the retaining bracket and I cut a piece of MDF the same measures of the TV to simulate a situation as close to reality .

Finally I gave a coat of paint + anti-rust at all iron mechanism to protect the welds and the points where the profiles have been cut.

Step 6: Box Construction

Picture of Box Construction

It only remains to build the casing to contain the mechanism and the TV.

I decided to create a kind of pyramid 2 steps where in the first place will go to the LED spotlights and in the second the motorized door opening.

i'll build everything with plywood 18mm and for convenience I will before the central block and then the outer step up exactly half of the first.

A completed work will apply the stucco and white paint to make it look like one with the ceiling.

To power the door i'll use two linear actuators from 150Kg with a 150 mm stroke.

With light wooden strips have assembled a template to facilitate me the drilling work.

Step 7: Simulation in Real Life

Before fixing the ceiling around and find that something is not right I want to simulate several times all the opening and closing movements.

All settings i will make when everything is mounted

Step 8: Electronics and Arduino Sketch

Picture of Electronics and Arduino Sketch

I will use Arduino to control the synchronized and timed movement of the actuators.

With 4 relays control the actuators 3 (1 for TV and 2 for the door) and while with others I manage 2 relay switching on a light, and the 12V power supply that for obvious reasons I will not keep on constantly.

All electronics will be housed in an openable compartment that I got in the main building which will then be closed with a plastic grid.

The cycle of operation will be the following

Opening the System:

I turn on the 12V power supply
Turn on the actuators to open the door
Pause of seconds required for the opening
I turn on the actuator of the TV

System closure:

I turn on the actuator to retract the TV
Pause of seconds it takes to make her retract
It turns on the door actuators
I turn off the power supply 12 Volt

I wrote a sketch (you find below attached) with different functions to control all the components and manage the status of the system to avoid collisions or unforeseen situations.

Step 9: Mounting Mechanism

Picture of Mounting Mechanism

To anchor the mechanism I prepared 4 M10 threaded rods of the perforated plates.

To mark the holes on the holes in the ceiling I set the template on the ceiling with a plug from the wall in the central point of it then when squarely with respect to the walls I made 8 pilot holes diam. 6mm. Then I removed the template and complete the holes with a diam. 12 long 40 cm across the entire floor.

Once tight the bolts to the ceiling I mounted the strips of the scissor mechanism using stainless steel screws and self-locking nuts interposing between the flat wires a small copper washer to minimize friction.

Step 10: Mounting the Box

Picture of Mounting the Box

It's time for the truth .... fix the box with the door hoping that the holes made in the ceiling coincide with the slots made in the wood.

With a simple system but effective, I raised the box to the ceiling with helping cable and a block of wood to tighten.

I went in the attic and I raised to 20 cm step leads and stopped with the perforated wooden block. repeating the process several times the box has approached the ceiling.

Once you arrived at the top was enough to cut the cable, replace it with the threaded bar and you're done; this can also make it yourself without the help of someone.

Once at the top I put squarely compared to the walls of the room and close all 4 nuts.

Step 11: Mounting Box Step 2

Picture of Mounting Box Step 2

It just has to install the small step with recessed spotlights.

To fix the step to the body I made the anchor blocks that I screwed up the first box and that will be the batting for tamponade.

Meanwhile I cut at 45 ° the pieces that will form the step and drilled epr we can cash the spotlights.

Once I mounted the four steps I closed with a curtain made of chipboard 10 mm.

Step 12: Finishing & Decoration

Picture of Finishing & Decoration

Once the assembly work is finished I gave a generous grouted to fill the imperfections of the material and the holes left by the bolts whose heads have sunk by 1 mm into the wood to allow the grouting to fill.

With an orbital sander and paper 100 I shaved it all smoothed all over.

Having never done shaving work in the house so i make it without thinking of the consequences. uhhh whole room looked snowy and after I finished, I realized that the cabinet sliding door was not closed completely and the dust has found its way everywhere ... I leave you only imagine, so far my wife happy and joyful ...

I have always liked the decorative borders polystyrene so I applied a not too glitzy.

Step 13: Painting

Picture of Painting

I finish the job with two coats of white wall and waiting for the mount spotlights TV and try the opening and closing mechanism ... everything perfect!

Comments

extreme79 (author)2016-08-03

Veramente un bel progetto! Complimenti.
Come mai non hai usato l'alluminio al posto del ferro? Sarebbe stato tutto più leggero.. ok, il peso lo sostiene il soffitto e non lo porti in braccio, però è sempre sulla testa :D

MircoSlepko (author)extreme792016-08-04

Ciao e grazie per i complimenti...
Posso darti diverse risposte riguardo alla scelta del ferro.

1) Le piattine del sistema a forbice devono sopportare dei carichi molto alti sia in trazione che in compressione e dove forate la sezione di tenuta ovviamente si riduce e se avesso dovuto farle in alluminio sarebbero state molto più ingombranti ed il meccanismo snon si sarebbe chiuso del tutto.

2) Non ho mai avuto occasione di saldare l'alluminio (purtroppo) per cui mi viene molto più facile saldare il ferro.

3) avevo dei tubolari e piattine di avanzo dal mio ultimo progetto così ho recuperato tutto quello che potevo dagli scarti.

4) l'alluminio ha costi molto elevati rispetto al ferro inoltre il fabbro da cui mi rifornisco mi regala spesso tubolari di avanzo.

5) Documentandomi un pò sui sistemi di sollevamento TV in commercio ho notato che sono tutti realizzati in ferro

6) Hai perfettamente ragione nel dire che è sempre sulla testa ma nella remota possibilita che dovesse venire giu non credo che mi farei meno male se fosse stato realizzato in alluminio, avrei forse risparmiato qualche Kg ma considera che la TV ne aggiunge altri 11Kg... e poi, deve proprio venire giù quando ci sono io sotto? :-)))

Scherzi a parte, la tua osservazione è giustissima ma ci sono state più motivazioni che mi hanno fatto propendere per il ferro.

Grazie per avermi scritto
a presto
Saluti

piratetv1 (author)2016-08-03

very nice

RudiO4 (author)2016-08-02

Amazing..??

Too Many Projects (author)2016-08-02

Wouldn't download. I'll try again later.

StlBigRed70 (author)2016-07-12

Awesome idea!!!

zinnatty (author)2016-07-12

really nice work

Sebastien Guerard (author)2016-07-12

Really NICE! Thank you for this beautiful project. Really all the details. big thank

PeeDonkeyPit (author)2016-07-12

Nice work! Got my vote!

MircoSlepko (author)PeeDonkeyPit2016-07-12

thanks for voting!

lucignolo (author)2016-07-12

Complimenti! Sei un folle coraggioso! davvero bel progetto

MircoSlepko (author)lucignolo2016-07-12

ahahahah, "folle coraggioso" non me lo aveva detto ancora nessuno...

grazie Lucignolo!

dbenedetto (author)2016-07-12

Molto bene! I voted.

MircoSlepko (author)dbenedetto2016-07-12

Thanks for your vote

AlicN (author)2016-07-12

Why a small TV and not a Video Projector.

MircoSlepko (author)AlicN2016-07-12

I prefer the brightness of a LCD rather than that of a projector ...

thanks for writing me

Pa1963 (author)2016-07-12

As big as that box is, it would put it within reach of an adult, and you could lower and lift everything manually. Not half as cool, but cheaper. Nice build!

Pa1963 (author)2016-07-12

The scissor mechanism looks a lot like one from the leg rest mechanism in an easy chair. People throw those out all the time, so they would be free for the taking. And you can sometimes find powered versions. Or maybe a cable and pulley lift powered by a Harbor Fright winch? Hmmm...

BrentL17 (author)2016-07-12

Love it! Thanks for sharing!

nhatzakis (author)2016-07-12

Great inspiring job

PhilS43 (author)2016-07-12

Only had a quick look, but I hope you have some strong fixings either in or across the ceiling joists.

The scissor mechanism is similar but more complicated than one I put together to raise a greenhouse ventilating window. It might be worth looking at the hinge mechanisms they use particularly for PVC windows - they look very similar to yours and might save some time. Arduino to the rescue again.

MircoSlepko (author)PhilS432016-07-12

no problem I drilled the floor from side to side and placed 8 threaded rods screwed into the attic :-))
Arduino forever!!

time_killer (author)2016-07-12

This is SO cool! I'm not sure if I have the technical know how to do this but, I sure want to.

thanks for sharing. I voted for you

MircoSlepko (author)time_killer2016-07-12

1000 thanks for having voted

regards

lpinho (author)2016-07-12

Great job, could you please add the price tag to each component just to see how much it would cost to build one?

Thanks for sharing, its a really good project

MircoSlepko (author)lpinho2016-07-12

The higher cost is due to the linear actuators around 250 Euros on ebay.

Iron it cost just under 20 Euros
Wood costs about 40 Euros
LCD TV 499 Euros

regards

YaënD (author)2016-07-12

great, what I want to do is to down the entire roof and just have a door in.

bobthemoron (author)2016-07-12

I like it. I'm going to build one.

Horef (author)2016-07-12

wow!

dr1709 (author)2016-07-12

Awesome design. Love the idea. :-)

fjr_scoot (author)2016-07-11

Well done. Thanks!

chahide (author)2016-07-08

awsome build man keep up

mvrckred (author)2016-07-08

This is Baller!!!!!

ahmedb84 (author)2016-07-08

excellent !! Love It !! GJ !

MircoSlepko (author)ahmedb842016-07-08

thankyou!

Cymro76 (author)2016-07-08

Great build, makes me want to buy some linear actuators to play with.

MircoSlepko (author)Cymro762016-07-08

actuators are nice toys and the only limit is your imagination ...
for me it was a great experience

alfredmoses (author)2016-07-07

Well done and wonderful amazing work.Count my Vote man :)

MircoSlepko (author)alfredmoses2016-07-07

thank you for your support!

ZombieWorkshop (author)2016-07-05

Oh cool good job

thank you

brettt3 (author)2016-07-05

great job. I'm in the same competition that you are in and even I voted for you. Awesome job! Well done!

MircoSlepko (author)brettt32016-07-06

hello, I have seen your work, very beautiful, repay the favor by voting for you

pastormick (author)2016-07-05

well done!

MircoSlepko (author)pastormick2016-07-06

tnx!

whatfor (author)2016-07-05

Can we get an 'ible for a GLaDOS motorized lift down ceiling system?

MircoSlepko (author)whatfor2016-07-06

forgive me but I did not understand your question?

Chas Muckle (author)2016-07-05

Nicely done. And I love the design -- it evokes a kind of retro-chic, like the bachelor pad of a 1960's international spy; just needs a little bossa nova piped in!

MircoSlepko (author)Chas Muckle2016-07-05

I'm glad you appreciate my work. thank you

Missourian (author)2016-07-04

Outstanding! Thank you for documenting & publishing this. Downloaded and voted for.

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