Picture of Home Automations Pop Up TV Lift Cabinet in under three hours
How to build a home automations Pop Up TV Lift cabinet using an off-the-shelf dresser drawers and an off-the-shelf Pop Up TV Lift Kit from Firgelli Automations http://www.FirgelliAuto.com/.

You could easily spend many thousands of dollars on a custom built cabinet with Pop Up TV Lift, but for about $500. You could spend more, depending on the ready-to-build furniture you buy, but ours was quite inexpensive. Its the ideal Home automations project

Step 1: Build the main portion of the cabinet

Picture of Build the main portion of the cabinet
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First thing to do is build the main structure of the cabinet/drawers. This will vary from project to project based on the cabinet you get, but you essentially want to put together the unit so you can identify what needs to be modified in order to fit the Pop Up TV Lift.

Our cabinet had a middle support that had to be trimmed to allow the Pop Up TV Lift and the LCD TV to fit in.
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ikeaengineer made it!8 months ago

I made this, it was a piece of cake, the TV lift Mechanism works very well too. Thanks Firgelli for the tech support when i needed it too

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ikeaengineer8 months ago
Carolynod1 year ago
Troy. Did you remove the drawer frames and attach the fronts with glue? Also where did you find your cabinet. I'm having trouble finding a cabinet that doesn't cost more than the lift. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Muyi Carolynod1 year ago

Hi, may i know you do the electric TV lifts for business? What kind of the remote using? your TV lifts would control by your TV original remote directly?

Ole bally4 years ago
Ok this sounds like a cool plan!! The question I want to ask is can the TV 'lift' not work on those 'rams' used for lifting rear door hatch back car doors? It would mean manually pushing the TV down to 'stow' it but would make it pretty fool proof?! This is a good security thing in a country where if anythings not nailed down proper, it's fair game! Welcome to Africa!
hmacris7 years ago
As a warning to all reading this: I have been through not one but two Firgelli TV lifts within 4 months These lifts are not built to good standards at all ( or any standards ). The first one we got did not even work at all. After some hassles they sent out a second unit. I had just begun installing the unit today. It had gone up and down about 4 times total since I recieved the unit (not one with an actual TV on it). It then magically stopped working again. I plan on calling Firgelli again tomorrow about this problem. The lift is going on a yacht and to have it break randomly is completely unacceptable. I have spoken with Troy and he himself does not know anything about these units. I took the first unit (non working from its inception) apart to have a look inside and everything is completely amateur-esque. Not good craftsmanship at all. The worst part is as soon as I asked Troy how to fix the lift, he himself had absolutely no idea as to its construction. He will sell you a lift willingly, but absolutely knows nothing about them. This is just to alert you, your money may be better spent else where. These lifts are made overseas (China) and simply imported and dumped into the hands of consumers. Be cautious. We also were able to snap a few photos of the problems inside the lift (a rubbing wire which wore through the insulation and frayed, perhaps during product testing ;) ) After going through 2 lifts and never getting one to work with a TV on it, I must suggest you seek to spend your money on a quality lift. To everyone; you get what you pay for, especially when it comes from China.
While I am not familliar with this lift type, I would like to mention that many of these TV lifts, are built using tubular motors (such as are used in electric awnings, and hurricane rolling shutters, etc.). Note the tubular motors are built with internal thermal control devices, that trip at a given temperature. Those motors are designed to be used fo a maximum of 4 minutes every hour (prefferably: 1 minute on, and 14 minutes off, for no more than 4 similar cycles per hour). Because these motor typed are tremendously geared down, heat is produced, through the gear reduction process. If the thermal devide trips, the motors need to cool, for approximately 30 minutes before again being used. When these units are first assembled, people tend to play with them, overloading the thermal protection of the motors. While I do not know for fact, that is the case, I highly suspect it to be so. Note I both build, and repair tubular motors, for a living. If anyone is interested, he can reply, and we can talk by private e-mails.
Actually Harrison, I do know how they are made. At the time you called (or Dini I forget) the tone of your phone call was very aggressive and it put me off balance to hear someone yelling and berating me. I understand you've had two units that you've had trouble with. I did everything I could to help, trying to find a solution that worked best for you. I found out about your most recent problem by reading it on Instructables. I personally pride myself in being helpful, not only when people call me at work but in my personal life. I've spent many many hours helping people through technical issues, and to see a comment like this is quite hurtful. So much for the 'be nice' comment policy.
Troy have you witnessed problems with these lifts? and would you stand behind a horrible product? thats the question? hoefully not, but if you have any suggestions for another lift could you please refer me to one thats near the same price range. my email address is shuggwizzou@hotmail.com
Troy, you must put yourself in our position...When we open up your lift and see wires that have worn apart among other problems we are extremely disconcerted. We are in the final weeks of a project that we have spent a year on and had the lift break (the second one) as soon as we had bolted it down. We didn't even get to put a TV on it. So that leaves us high and dry. I would love to discuss this further, privately, please feel free to email me at hmacris@bu.edu.
shugg hmacris7 years ago
have you gotton the lift to work yet, because I'm working on a home project and am building these cabinets for a couple lifts, and was planning on selling them. I sure would hate to invest in garbage, an be out of my profit.....
sejest7 years ago
can this lift be used reversely as descending from attic or ceiling
treagh sejest6 years ago
Beware of attic heat on any television. If you place the box in the attic, be sure to insulate and provide air circulation or the life of the display may be shortened.
probably just need a GOOD support beam.
dubbin016 years ago
P.s. Will the heat being given off the TV be affecting the actual reading of your T-stat behind this set-up? I would probably move the t-stat out of the rear of the TV and maybe put it to the side of somewhere else (Obviously away from sunlight also)
Ooops! I just read this was for demonstrative purposes correct? If so, disregard the T-stat statement.
OOops! This thread is old as dirt. Nevermind!
iumad6 years ago
Troy, I have column lift like the one shown and wondered where I can get some info on it. It shows 24v input. Can I usr 12v, how to set up and down limits etc?
google the serial number
I made a google Sketchup 3d model of this build process but instead of using a linear actuator it uses a TV LIFT from Vector motions, the principal is the same and the modification to the cabinets the same just a different way to achieve the same results. just search for "Home automation POP UP TV LIFT cabinet installation instructions"
mefromliny6 years ago
Nice, but I had some pneumatic (Air) cylinders around and instead of using an electric lifting mechanism, I used a simple valve (Switch) and air cylinder. Even a 3/4" diameter (Body) air cylinder will lift a big TV. You can get a simple valve and cylinder for under fifty bucks form Ebay. My tv needed to be raised fifteen inches, so it was pretty easy to do. Good job!
Mind telling me how? I have been looking for the "inexpensive" lifts.....my budget is apparently REALLY small compared to their "affordable" one. dna
aschoen7 years ago
I am trying to get a decorative plywood panel to lift up and reveal my tv behind it. Should I do a linear actuator or a standard motor with limit switches? I have a switched AC plug behind the panel that I was hoping would activate the lift when power turned on. Then, I was hoping when the limit switches or power turned off, maybe a relay could flip the polarity so next time it came on it move in the opposite direction. Any ideas how to accomplish this?
newtontroy7 years ago
You can also make your own TV lift yourself by getting a linear actuator, guide rails, a power adaptor and remote control. Think of a vertical drawer that slides out upwards. You need a piece of wood to act as the support for the TV bracket. You use the guide rails to support the 'drawer' so that it only moves straight up and down. Then you use the actuator to do the lifting. Most linear actuators are 12VDC, so you need a power adaptor. You can use a remote control or a rocker switch to control the actuator. If you want a rocker switch, make sure it has 6 poles on the back (DPDT) so that you can wire it to reverse polarity going to the actuator. This is the general idea, if you can't match the stroke length of the actuator to the distance you need you can use an external limit switch to stop it at the point you like.
aloknaik7 years ago
i too made an automated project...where i had 8 motors...these motors cud b made to work in any sequence depending on how its programmed...i programmed it using 4 bit binary..cool stuff..
4 bit binary, now that's cool. When I was a kid we only had 1 bit binary.. kidding. Instructable for this?
pstauff8 years ago
Nice solution for a lift cabinet. Where do you locate the DVR, DVD player, and sound system?
This is just for show, not for actual "use".
No, you could build a shelf either under the TV or above and put your components there. Or you could potentially have one of those drawer covers (hinged at the bottom) drop down to reveal the DVD player, etc... Lots of ways to do this in a practical sense.
If you paid any attention, there is no room inside for components, and as far as buidling a cabinet underneath, well anything big enough for practical use would probably have the tv hitting the ceiling, and who wants their stereo on the floor anyways? That's where all the dust is.
Depending on how slim the various components are, you might be able to fit a DVD player & a Comcast box or something like that.
Should be able to fit something down below, seems like there should be room.
n3rrd Punkguyta8 years ago
...paid any attention? He wrote it.
Punkguyta n3rrd8 years ago
zeck Punkguyta8 years ago
i think its really funny that you said "if you paid any attention"
Just_A pstauff8 years ago
You can use an IR repeater and house the DVR, DVD player and sound system in a near by closet or media cabinet. I did this for my plasma that I have mounted above the fireplace. It's easy to do, cost about $100 for the repeater. The real cost is for the HDMI cable that you will have to run. I had a 75 feet run the the HDMI cable cost me a small fortune.
i.am.mozman8 years ago
It looks like you could actually hinge the bottom two drawer fronts and mount components there.
Good idea, there's probably room down there.
Belcher10357 years ago
I hope that's not the permanent location. Placing a large heat-producing piece of equipment right in front of your thermostat is a bad idea. Does your house get really cold when the TV's on?
Can this be used inside a wall? I have a half wall I would like to use this in , but i think I would have to widen the wall.
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