Introduction: Table Saw Jig, Under 50$

Picture of Table Saw Jig, Under 50$

This is my table saw jig, for a circular saw. It has a lowering blade, and rip-fence, and can cut on angles up to 45 degrees. Also the circular saw is easily removed to be used as originally intended. It cost me about 50$ Canadian (not including the circular saw), so for its size and flexibility it was a great save; and I get the pride of knowing I made it my self.

Step 1: Supplies and Tools Used

Supplies:

x2 2 foot by 4 foot, half inch plywood (I bought 2 small sheets instead of cutting one big sheet, because I knew that the sheets were already square and had straight edges.)

x2 10 foot 2 by 4

Scrap wood one inch thick

3 inch eye bolt with matching nut

Glue (wood and Krazy)

Screws 2 1/2 inch, 1 1/4 inch, 3/4 inch

Power bar (with on and off switch)

x8 one inch L brackets

Tools:

Circular saw

Hand drill

Fretsaw

Screw driver

Step 2: Cutting Hole for the Saw

Picture of Cutting Hole for the Saw

Start by positioning the saw where you want it, making sure that the blade is perpendicular with the front edge. You also need to leave enough room in front of the saw for the rip fence's guide. I left 6 inches in front of the saw. Trace the saw out, then drill holes in the corners for the fretsaw to turn. I cut most of the waste material with the circular saw (as it turned out I used it later.). Then cut most the rest of the waste with the fretsaw.

Step 3: Placing the Saw

Picture of Placing the Saw

Use a rasp to get the edges to the line, checking with the saw to make sure a snug fit. I lucked out, my saw was perfectly perpendicular with the front edge with minor filing. I then clamped a scrap piece of wood under the plywood, and rested the saw on it and the edge of the table (so the blade protruded and the saw was flush with the bottom of the plywood.). I then placed some scrap wood (one inch thick) in the places were I was going to anchor it. Keep in mind when your doing this if you want the saw to be able to cut on a angle then you must leave room for the whole saw to angle; so I could not have anchor points on the side with angles. I then marked where I needed to put the L brackets, and took the saw out so I could screw in the brackets. Flipped it over and put the saw back in, it was flush and held in place nicely.

Step 4: Adding the Legs and Swicth

Picture of Adding the Legs and Swicth

I made my table saw to sit on my work table, so i just used four 2x4 legs and two 2x4 cross beams. I screwed on the power bar. Plugged in the saw, and Zap strapped the trigger down. Gave a quick test on a scrap piece of wood and it worked great.

Step 5: Making the Rip Fence

Picture of Making the Rip Fence

So I just clamped a piece of 2 by4 and used it as a temporary rip fence, and ripped the over piece of plywood. I made two one inch strips the length of my table, one two inch strip the length of my table. and two two inch strips from my waste in the second step. I laid the first one inch strip down so it was perfectly inline with the front of the table, glued and screwed it. Then the short two inch piece I placed between (not fastening it) the first strip and the second one, which I placed in line with the front edge so that the two inch strip can slide snugly in the galley. Fasten the other short two inch piece on top of the other short two inch piece, so it has a slit hang over the front edge (a few mm). Place the long two inch piece over the unfastened piece, and secure it to the far one inch piece to prevent the two inch piece from falling out when table is turned up right.

Drill a hole for your eye bolt in the left over waste, so that when you fasten it to the guide and tighten the bolt it will push against the table locking it in place. Counter drill the so the nut can sit flush with the wood. I used Krazy glue and stuffed sawdust in the gaps around the nut, which work well enough. I then attached the piece to the guide, so it could slide freely. Then I simply attached a piece of two by four the length of the table, making sure that it is perfectly in line with the blade of the saw.

Step 6: Finished Product

Picture of Finished Product

I think it turned out nicely, the only thing I might change later if I feel a need is adjusting the brackets to make the saw flusher to the table. Later I plan on making a mount for my router on the over side of the table. Other then that let me know of any improvements or other modifications you would recommend in the comments. I am a young maker, learned all my woodworking skills from my time at high school, everything else is my own ingenuity. Thanks for taking the time to read this, hope I have given you some inspiration.

Comments

seamster (author)2016-08-14

Nice to see how you did this, thanks for sharing your steps!

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