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Build a long, narrow, flat, stable light-duty work table that can be knocked down when it is not in use. Eight-foot long sections can be attached end-to-end to form a table as long as you need for a particular project. Photo shows two sections connected together.

Step 1: Tabletop Construction

Table section tops are made of two pieces 2' by 8' ripped from a piece of 3/8-inch thick plywood. I cannot buy flat plywood, so rather than use 3/4-inch I glue and nail the two halves of the thinner sheet together in a way that their warpages and twists counteract each other. Rim is made from wood sold at home centers as "studs," actual 1-1/2" by 2-1/2." Note plywood overhangs sides of rims by 2-1/2" for attaching project clamps, etc. One end of each section's top overhangs its frame by 3/4," while its other end falls short by 3/4." When two sections are bolted together, the overlap of this much of one top over the other section's frame helps make the assembled top flat. Not shown in this photo, two matching holes are drilled through the frame ends so table sections can be pulled tightly together with stove bolts, washers and wing nuts.

Step 2: Nice Legs!

The black plastic blocks are sold in pairs by home centers and hardware store for making saw horses. One bolt will hold a block to one end of a two-by-four sawhorse top and also hold a plastic wedge that clamps two-by-four legs. I permanently attached a crosspiece of two-by-four at each end of each table section. I chose to use the smaller "stud" wood for the legs, so I cut small blocks, barely visible this side of the far pair of legs in the photo, to fill in the space. I drilled a recess in the top side of the tabletop for each plastic block, so a stove bolt's rounded head would not protrude from the top. A wing nut on the end of each bolt holds the block to its two-by-four crosspiece and also clamps the legs firmly in place. Remove the wing nuts and bolts, and the plastic blocks will come off the table and the legs will come out of the blocks, making everything easy to store. Legs can be stored in the recess underneath the tabletop.
I cut my legs 2-feet long each, the cutting angle marked using the angle of the plastic block.

Step 3: Level the Table

With this many legs and a floor that is not likely to be perfectly flat, you can still make the table stable and relatively level. Shake the table top, and if a leg is not supporting any weight, give it or one of its companions a little kick. Each leg can be moved enough to make them all come to rest on the floor and cause the table to rest firmly. Once that is done, the weight of the table will keep it in place.
If a project needs a REALLY long table, a third section can be made that has no legs but which has the 3/4" overlap of its top at both its ends. Those overlaps would rest on the 3/4" of exposed frame (underlaps?) at the ends of the two legged sections as the unlegged section is bolted end-to-end between the two legged sections. In that case, it would be important to measure carefully when drilling the bolt holes in the ends of the frames of all the table sections, best to make a template.
To see my other related projects, enter unclesam into the home page search box, scroll and advance pages to view them all.
U.S.
How is the stability if you lean on the long edge? Would it be better if you put the leg blocks at an angle-leaning out or 90 degrees from where they are?
Table resists tipping sideways quite well, primarily because of its weight. Adequate for my uses, which was for light assembly tasks. Attachment points, and therefore angles and orientation of legs, could easily be varied, as you suggest, in order to configure table to suit builder's needs.

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