Tablesaw Outfeed Table





Introduction: Tablesaw Outfeed Table

These plans are for a Grizzly G0715P series Tablesaw Outfeed Table.

Step 1: Drawing Up the Plans

I used popular for the frame ( items 1-3 and 5) and maple for the table brace and roller blocks (items 4, 6 and 7)
I used a 2 x 4 trimmed to 2 degrees to allow the hinges to go over center.
The frame has dado's as shown.
The 1/4-20 Threaded inserts can be purchased anywhere.. Amazon sells them in packs of 25
To mount the 2x4 I replaced the number 10 and 8 screws with longer ones to go through the 2x4 and rear angle.

Step 2: Attaching Frame to Hinges

Once the Frame is cut and dado's run it is time to mount it to the saw per the first photo in this section
I used heavy duty hinges to assure the frame would be solid and could handle a load.
I purchased 7 rolling pins from Amazon for $5.90 ea.. They are now just over $6 dollars.
I removed the handles from the rolling pins as I wanted to use the 3/16 rod to attach to my 14 maple blocks. Note that there is a slot in the block for height adjustment on the frame.
I mounted one of the inner rollers to check fit and also help with height adjustment

Step 3: Attaching the Table Brace

I attached a 2" x 15" x 3/4" piece of popular to the bottom of the saw allowing through holes to be just above the dust pan inside the saw base. Where this is mounted is not critical.
I mounted a dog ear with a 1/4-20 threaded insert to this bracket as shown in the photo. I made a similar dog ear for the frame and again added a 1/4-20 insert.
The table brace is a bit of trial an error as the top and bottom need to be close to the same length. On the dog ear ends I bored a 1/2" hole through and put a 1/2 x 1/4 nylon bushing in both ends of the bottom brace and one end of the top brace. See photo examples of the threaded insert and nylon bushing installed.
The brace is designed to go over center thus when the table is in the closed position the middle of the brace is up and as you lift the table up it goes over center to hold the table level. I added an adjustment brace with a knob to allow me to adjust the table as needed.

Step 4: Closing Table Sequence

To fold the Table down in the closed position, you lift the table bringing the brace halves in line with one another then pressing with your foot to move it over center.. See photo sequence

Step 5: Opening Table Sequence

To open the table, just grab the lower section of the table and pull away from the saw lifting up and out until the brace is inline then goes over center and drops down. See photo sequence and video

Step 6: Finishing the Table

Now that it is all working, time to paint the table and mount the rollers. The Grizzly Polar Bear Series white is the same as the Jet white. I primed and painted the table frame white. I put a clear oil on the rollers and 14 mounting brackets
The 14 roller mounting brackets are all adjustable to raise and lower the rollers.



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    You have to make sure the rollers are exactly perpindicular to the saw blade, otherwise your work piece will try to pull to one side. That's why the roller balls are preferred.

    Based on using this table and knowing that even though I marked and drilled everything on a drill press, they are not "exact" and have had no issues. The metal rollers on the other hand leave marks, especially on softer wood which is why I choose to use wood rollers..

    I have had experience with both as we had the rollers in the cabinet shop I worked in.

    In the end we all have preferences.

    Cool, did I check it out before it was accepted in the contest?

    Yes. Your comment was 'no contest'

    I hate that when that happens, how can you vote for a project if they feature it before it is accepted in a contest?

    And what are your chances of getting back to it before the contest is over especially if it is posted on the last day of the contest.

    I don't have a need for an outfeed table but this design looks like it can be easily adapted to a side table for handling sheets of plywood that need to be cut cross-ways.