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This is a short description of how to build a tablesaw stand with folding side tables.

Step 1: Cutting List

In order to build the stand few parts of birch ply must be cut to size.

Since the tablesaw I use have rack and pinion for controling the fence, i made one of the sides low to allow for the fence to move out. If you don't have this system, you can just make a high side more and add another folding side table if you want.

Cut list (all metrics) – 18mm plywood

  • Bottom : 748 x 600mm
  • tall side: 730 x 812
  • low side: 482 x 730
  • Back side: 812 x 600
  • outfeed table: 600 x 700

A few other pieces were made as I went along, without no specific measurements, but fitted during the process.

Step 2: Assembling the Carcass

Second step is to build the carcass from the various pieces. I have some 90 degree angle pieces of MDF that I cut the corner off and drilled holes in, which allows me to use them as an angel guide when assembling projects.

For fastening I pre-drilled holes and drove in drywall screws as they have quite a lot of grip and are cheap. The construction came out quite sturdy.

Step 3: Quick Test Fit

To ensure the saw would fit I put in on the carcass. Nothing was out of place, but the saw needed adjustment of height to make sure material being cut will passe the upper edges.

Step 4: Adding Wheels and Feet

To allow moving the stand around I put on a couple of cheap plastic wheels. They are abou 55mm in height and gives a final height of 875mm of the cutting surface.

I also made two simple blocks of the 18mm plywood that I screwed on the sides of the table. I didn't choose four wheels as I want the table to be immobilized when using it, and now I just have to tilt it slightly off the ground to push it around freely, but still have a very stable base when standing still.

Step 5: Making Sure the Saw Is Above the Sides

To adjust the outfeed height of the table saw I put a straight edge on the surface of the saw. Adjusting each foot of the tablesaw allowed me to make sure there was a passing height of at least 1mm above the edges of the sides.

This ensure that my material will not get caught onthe edges when pushing it through the saw blade, which potentially could be really dangerous because I would have to reach over the sawblade to dislodge it.

Step 6: Supporting the Folding Table

To support the folding table at 90 degrees I cut a support brace in 45degrees on each end. Then I made two blocks with 45 degree ends and mounted them so the brace is in the right position for the table to be flat with the surface of the tablesaw.

The folding table is mounted with an ordinary folding hinge across the full lenght, to make sure heavy materials will not break it.

I also angled the sides on the support brace, allowing it to be stored as in a "french cleat" system under the folding table, making it easy to transport and setup. This is a bit hard to see on the pictures.. however it's easy to do.

Step 7: Final Product!

Folded and unfolded out feedtable on the saw.

I am quite satisfied with this small project and the out come. My saw will be much more used now, since I can run bigger items through it more easily.

<p>That's pretty slick, I didn't see a hole for the dust to come out, did I skip a step.?</p>
<p>I didn't drill one yet, but the dust port on the table saw is on the backside.</p><p>Personally I would go for a flexible hose and just put it in from the low side when using the saw :)</p><p>Best Regards</p><p>S&oslash;ren</p>

About This Instructable

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Bio: Working my way from 0 to 100 documenting the progress all the way. Visit my site at www.plansforanything.com /Søren
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