Step 1: The frame
Study the pictures and you will see how the frame is made. The configuration as made requires the following joints:
(4) 90 degree elbows;
(8) "T" joints
(2) end caps
All the rest is straight half-inch tubing, cut to length. NO CEMENT WAS USED TO JOIN THE PARTS and none should be used. The friction fit of the tubing is reasonably strong, and leaving the joints unglued allows you to take the frame apart to work on the coil, make adjustments or repairs, etc.
The center uprights consist of three T joints each, stacked vertically. Short lengths of tubing connect these. If you make a bigger coil these length will have to be adjusted accordingly.
The cross piece that runs underneath and parallel to the secondary coil has to be drilled for the primary supports. Find the center point of the cross piece and drill two holes so that the primary form in centered on the secondary. Again, I can't tell you exactly where, because it depends on what you use for your coil forms. But center it and it will be fine. See the page on the Primary for more details of the mounting method.
The secondary is supported by plumbing caps and tubing adapters inserted into the cardboard tube. The tube I used is 1.75 inches in diameter (it's a thick-walled cardboard paper towel tube). I had to experiment at the home center to find off the shelf PVC plumbing pieces that would fit, but I found ones that slip in closely. Again, no glue was used. You want to be able to remove the secondary for maintenance or replacement.
In the two topmost T joints insert plugs to support the brass terminal posts. These can be anything non-conductive--cork, rubber, etc. I found wine corks fit nicely. Push them down equally on each side until they are level with the top edge of the secondary form. Above them fit a length of PVC tubing. Exact height is not too important; they should be tall enough to keep the terminals away from the active coils to avoid arcing. Mine are four inches tall each.
Drill 3/16ths holes in the center of two PVC pipe caps for the terminals. Drill small holes--about 1/8th inch--in the support tubes opposite the ends of the secondary coil to feed the secondary's wires through. See the step about the Terminals for final connections.



























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first i am thinking about buying this transformer http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=271193170693&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en
at 12 kv and 30 ma i think it will work now all i really care about is the large hi voltage spark so can i just have one of the terminals attached with wire to a large stick i will hold and short out the other terminal? i guss what i am asking is the voltage high enough to get any sparks and if so how big do you thunk i can get them?
Paul
PBT
PBT
would http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-build-a-Tesla-Coil/?ALLSTEPS spark gap work on this teasla coil? please answer?
PBT
Can it be reduced in size?
PBT
http://www.instructables.com/id/AA-Battery-Powered-Tesla-Coil/
PBT
I was thinking of getting this one. Do you think it would work with this project?
Paul
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/New-10kv-30mA-Neon-Power-Supply-Neon-Transformer-UL-Series-A410EL-/150798592048?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item231c4be830
You need something like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEON-TRANSFORMER-7-500-VOLTS-For-Neon-Signs-Jacobs-Ladder-or-Tesla-Coil-/330719105373?pt=BI_Circuit_Breakers_Transformers&hash=item4d0065115d#ht_507wt_934
Paul
Good luck. Try in person where you live, or any nearby city.
Paul
http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=Allanson+power+pak&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=9228341418964618920&sa=X&ei=3c2XT7LeHaX02QWH3sGIBw&ved=0CEQQ8wIwAg
If so, it won't work. It has GFI protection.
Here's a simple rule of thumb about NSTs. If it's big and heavy, it will probably work in a Tesla coil. If it's small and light, it's solid state and has GFI.
Here's a listing on eBay Canada for a non GFI unit:
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/15-000-Volt-Allanson-Neon-Sign-Transformer-Lighting-Unit-Non-GFI-Tesla-Coil-/120900954333?pt=BI_Circuit_Breakers_Transformers&hash=item1c264228dd#ht_500wt_950
and
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/neon-sign-transformer-9-000-volts-france-ground-fault-/300699999724?pt=BI_Circuit_Breakers_Transformers&hash=item46031dddec#ht_500wt_950
more are listed if you search for "neon transformer."
Paul
Paul
PBT
http://home.gallatinriver.net/mhammer/coil.htm
This is the circuit I use, though I don't use a safety gap in such a small coil.
Paul
What is your capacitor? Have you tested it for correct function?
How wide is your spark gap? A too wide gap will prevent the coil from working.
How is your secondary wound? How big is it? What gauge of wire?
How is your primary wound? What gauge? How many turns? Is it wound the same way as the secondary, or in the opposite direction? Opposite winding will keep the coil from working properly.
How big is your transformer (how many volts, how many amps)? What kind is it? If it is a modern sign transformer it will have Ground Fault Interrupt (GFI), which prevents it from working in a spark gap circuit. This, I suspect, may be your problem.
Paul
My spark gap is set up so each knob is extremely close to touching but is not touching.
My secondary is 24 gauge magnet wire gauge wire with approximately 443 windings.
My primary is 12 gauge wire with 5 windings. I think it might be in the opposite direction.
My transformer is a Pro Series Low Glow neon sign transformer. The input is 12-15VDC at 5 amps (max.). The output is 9500V; the output amperage is 30 mA. It also has an 8 amp fuse.
Paul
Try a local sign shop. A lot of businesses are switching from old style neon transformers to the transistorized type with GFI. Go to a shop that sells or services neon signs and ask if they have any old type transformers. They may just give you one to get rid of it.
Try a heating contractor and ask if they have any oil burner ignition transformers. Specify you want one without GFI!
Good luck!
Paul
http://www.mylampparts.com/Departments/BALLS/BRASS-BALLS/2---PIECE-BRASS-BALL.aspx
for example
Paul
Also, does the spark gap need to be as complicated as yours? I have seen some that are just two screws. Thanks!
See
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-find-the-primary-and-the-secondary-coils-of/
for a description of finding the primary and secondary coils on a flyback. This Instructable also has pictures of a flyback, so you can recognized one when you see it.
You can make a simple two part spark gap, sure. It will work, but it will overheat quickly, reducing the output of your coil. Blowing the gap with air helps. The best static spark gap I know is the "hyperbaric" gap described here:
http://www.stephenhobley.com/blog/2008/09/10/petes-quick-hyperbaric-spark-gap-tm/
It's easy to build and works great, with or without an air source to quench the spark.
Good luck,
Paul
Paul
Some of the parts are recycled and hence were free, but the coil alone represents about $15. The spark gap cost about the same, and the homemade Leyden jars (almost all recycled material) only $1 or so for the aluminum tape used. Connecting wire was scrounged from old microwave ovens ($0). Total investment, under $35.
Paul
Paul
14 powdered lemonade canisters, $1.98 each when full
1 cardboard roll, ?
1/2 can polyurethane varnish bought new in 2001, $6 for the full can
20KV wire from 5-6 microwave ovens, free
600 volt wire from microwave ovens, free
wax, melted from old scrap candle stubs, ?
These were just odds and ends around the house, you see, except for the microwave items, which I got by joining my local area freecycle.com.
Paul
Paul
Paul
In a DC Tesla coil, you don't need to have a pulsed supply but, rather, a constant-current supply and an inductor. The inductor stores the DC energy in its core and windings in the form of magnetic flux and allows the current (after it's charged) to pass through and into the capacitor. Once the capacitor is charged to a sufficient voltage to fire the spark gap, it will do so, at which point the potential in the transformer drops to near-zero and the magnetic flux experiences reversals. Since the gap is still conducting at this point, your core's magnetic flux 'dumps' its charge into the spark gap, as well, increasing your voltage to near two times the supply voltage. This does, however, require a rotary spark gap to occur.
I have no way to measure the frequency of the output, but TeslaMap estimates the resonant frequency as 1,718.13 KHz.
Paul
Do you think there is an way to TUNE the output?
See http://www.coe.ufrj.br/~acmq/tesla/tefp.html for example.
Paul
1. Does more secondary coil give better results?
2. Can I change the Leyden Jar with 2 15kV capacitors in parallel?
3. How much maximum amperes this coil can handle???
Thank you.
2. Certainly you can charge Leyden jars with two 15kV transformers (I assume you meant transformers, not capacitors). If you're using Leyden jars, watch out for corona losses, internal arcing, and other signs of electrical stress.
3. The tabletop coil in this Instructable is small. It handles the 30 mA amp neon sign transformer easily. Would it handle 60 mA? Probably. The wire gauges are sufficient. I would mostly worry about the capacitors. If you're using commercial caps in a MMC, check your amp rating. If you're using Leyden jars, it might be better to use liquid-filled glass jars (beer or wine bottle capacitors such as these: http://myweb.cableone.net/grcarhunter/bottle.htm ) I have not tested my soda can design above 30 mA.
Paul
The ones I used are similar to this: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103222 except that mine are round and these are rectangular.
Good luck,
Paul
This is the layout I use, except for my coil being bipolar.
Good luck,
PBT
because today is Nikola Tesla's birthday :D if he was alive he would be 153 years old...
I have stated tht .7A will kill.
Sorry I was off a decimal place and in the wrong direction too. I quote the summory of
http://hypertextbook.com/facts/2000/JackHsu.shtml
which all so has a number quote form published of texts
"In general, current that is fatal to humans ranges from 0.06 A to 0.07 A, depending on the person and the type of current"
I did not include a safety gap (labeled SG in the schematic) in my design as the transformer is current-limited. You can easily add one of you want. Also, my model is bipolar rather than being grounded at one end of the secondary and having a toroid at the other.
Also (voltage) = (amperage) * (resistance) or V=IR so I = V/R
part of the reason a van-de-graph generator is not likely to kill you is that air has add HUGH amount of resistance to the circuit of your body, the generator, and the ground
ps i did a music vid for ohms law lol big extra credit in science
http://hypertextbook.com/facts/2000/JackHsu.shtml
which all so has a number quote form published of texts
"In general, current that is fatal to humans ranges from 0.06 A to 0.07 A, depending on the person and the type of current"
Unless the terminals pierce your skin....
That said, electricity + heart = bad, in most cases.
amps is a measure of how much electricty is moving (how many electrons*)
volts is a measure of how likly they are going to move and how quickly the charges will balance out (the electrical potential)
static electricty discharges such as from a vann de graff generator of shocking yourself on a cold dry day are about 50,000 volts but only 0.01mA
the pain is caused by the heat generated by the arc and the electricty flowing through your nerves in/under your skin because your brain doesn't know how to interpit the signal so it chucks it up to pain
*amperage is a measure of flow of charge which coralates to the number of electrons but is not a direct relationship such as one where a charge of 1=1 electron
So your flesh may be fried but you don't feel a thing? Come on talk sense...
L
The voltage is what drives current through you. Some high-voltage devices like DIY tasers drive small currents with high voltage (shock only), unlike high-voltage overhead power-lines which will tend to kill you with a lot of current. Mains electricity will give you a shock, and maybe cause harm depending...
L