Introduction: Take That! Taser

Learn how to protect yourself and how to keep your enemies at a distance with this high-voltage shocker! For other high tech projects, questions, or troubles goto ocalon.com!

Then take it a step further as you hack this project to electrify a defense grid (think small area such as a room or so) or use it as a defense mechanism to repel unwanted individuals from your stuff! My favorite use is as a shield on my robots where, when someone tries to pick it up will be in for quite a shock!... literally

First just read through the project, make sure to gather all the needed parts and tools and then you'll be able to create your very own defense taser.

Step 1: Materials/Supplies

Okay so first we begin with a parts list for the project:

1. Default materials: soldering iron (covered here)
2. circuit board scraped from a throw-away temporary camera
3. 3x2x1" project enclosure
4. Red SPST (single pole single throw) Pushbutton Switch
5. SPST Submini Slide Switch
6. 6" of stranded 22-24 gauge stranded wire (preferable 24 because its thinner)
7. Some AA batteries, 2 screws w/bolts, and a drill.

All these things are available at your local radio shack. Happy Huntings!

Step 2: Circuit Disassembly

As can be seen there are plenty of components in the circuit board but the more prominent ones remain to be the photo-flash capacitor which is the large cylinder that says PHOTO-FLASH and the flash bulb.

We begin by first removing the capacitor. The reason for this is because the capacitor stores charge that when triggered will flow (hopefully not through you) to the high voltage flash tube. But for our hack we don't need either the capacitor or flash tube so we can scrap these parts for later uses.

Now use either a screwdriver or some other useless tool (that you don't need or really care for), making sure that it has a non-metal handle (otherwise you will get shocked!!) and arc it across the leads of the capacitor to discharge any current that may still be contained (this means to connect both ends of the capacitor using the tool as a connector).

Beware because it it is fully charged then it will create a loud pop along with a pretty sick blue flash right before it burns two indents into your tool of choice. Using a metal handle to arc the capacitor WILL result in you getting a strong shock that proceeds up your entire arm! (trust me I've done this). So go ahead and snip off the leads of the capacitor closest to the circuit board and cut off the three wires that connect to the flash bulb.

Step 3: Box + Rewiring

Next you'll want to find about a 1/4" diameter drill bit and drill a hole centered short-wise (the shorter length) and about 2/3 of the way lengthwise (the longer length) and drill a hole for the push button switch. Keep enlarging the hole by drilling until the push button fits into it, as seen on the right. You can unscrew the switch bolt and screw it on underneath the lid to keep it firmly in place. Next, flip the circuit over so that you are looking at the belly of the circuit and find the metal button that charges the circuit, similar to the one down below.

Just pop it off so that you see the circuit board connections. Now wire the push button switch with one of the wires connected to the center connection and the second one to one of the remaining three smaller connections that are on the circuit board. Connect these two wires to the push button and you know have push on demand taser action!

But first, find a drill bit that will cut a hole large enough for you to push the screws through the front and space them equally from each other. Once you have drilled the holes strip two pieces of wire about 1.5" then loop it around the screw and twist it so that it is firmly wound around the end of the screw. Or you can use some crimps for an easier install. Push the two screws through their respective holes and use the bolts to tighter the screws outside of the casing so that they do not move around. Now you can solder those two wires to where the capacitor was.

Step 4: Connect and Taser Away

Finally, you can make place your circuit board firmly into its case and then solder two wires (preferably one red for positive & another black for negative) to where the battery connectors are. Feel free to remove the metal battery holders however you choose. But make sure that you keep track of which wire goes to the positive terminal and which ones goes to the negative end of the battery you're using, otherwise you'll blow up your circuit causing irreversible damage. Industry standard is to use red wiring for positive and black wiring for negative or ground.

After wiring up the circuit to a AA battery, then we recommend using your multimeter (if your an electronic hobbyist or roboticist then shame on you if you don't have one! lol) to measure the voltage of your new taser once you press the switch. Now all that's left is to test it out...on yourself. The rule of thumb for using your taser is that you should be able to handle taking that shock 3 times before using it on anyone else. But we warn you, after a single shock from this high-voltage gadget, you wont like the idea of a second. Enjoy!

For more info, or if you're unclear/having trouble with a step just go to Ocalon Electronics. There's also many other electronics projects, gadgets and stuff that you might be interested in.

Comments

author
punpunguy (author)2015-03-18

i just got electrocuted by touching two sides of the camera, my whole body felt the shock

author
ElectricityDIYfun (author)2013-06-07

Simple question... Will this kill my friend?

author
mbilalawan (author)2009-07-06

how can we modify this circuit to give a rather 50,000+ volts shock

author
unum (author)mbilalawan2011-04-21

For 1700 volts go here:

https://www.instructables.com/id/Real-1700-volt-Camera-Taser/

author
Kin_Hell (author)mbilalawan2009-10-04

Yes it gives around 300 on 1.5v so 3v would give 600, but the more you rank it the more likley it is to blow quicker

author
unum (author)2011-04-21

use this instructable to make a smaller transforming circuit. it sacrifices the indicator LED but is less then 1cm^3 in volume and can use up to a nine volt:

https://www.instructables.com/id/Real-1700-volt-Camera-Taser/

author
2k000 (author)2010-01-09

 i dont see the battery in the picture, where is your power source coming from?

author
masterserch (author)2k0002010-08-09

am i supous a aa batery but good question

author
Romanader (author)2010-06-23

Hmm... I wonder how a flyback transformer and a high-voltage joule thief would treat this project... Yeah... I actually go out of my way to be evil. It's satisfying to say the least...

author
Javi93 (author)2010-02-20

can i make the box out of legos? plastic would povide good isolation

author
qwaz (author)2009-11-15

 Would the stungun still have the desired effect if I reversed the prngs and only had the heads of the screws showing?

author
expidition (author)2009-09-13

Where do you connect the push button wires exactly? Or could you post a picture with the caption things

author
scozzahisee (author)2009-05-30

Nice looking gadget there. Does it rapidly arc electricity as long as you hold the button down, or is it a single arc per button press?

author

neither. at 330 volts, the arcing ability is limited to about the width of a human hair, .01 mm.

author
Wyle_E (author)2009-01-23

That's actually a stungun, not a taser. The taser uses gunpowder to launch a pair of miniature harpoons, with trailing wires connected to the pulse generator in the weapon's grip. It's a much nastier weapon than a stungun, because the target can't just jump back and break the circuit.

author
runmgh (author)Wyle_E2009-02-06

Actually, tasers use compressed nitrogen to propel the barbs. They can also be used as a direct contact stun device.

author
fabrivassa (author)runmgh2009-06-12

yep, nitrogen

author

or CO2.

author
jdsoccer17 (author)2009-06-16

what kind of camera did you use? im trying a kodak. i dont really know what to do

author
Padlock (author)2008-12-13

Wow, this is so original...

author
PyroMonger (author)Padlock2009-02-10

It's not original at all because this 'ible' is also in a book I have - 101 Spy Gadgets for the Evil Genius - and it looks almost exactly like this in the book except for the stunning prongs. It's cool to show things you've seen in books but just remember to give credit to them.

author
Padlock (author)PyroMonger2009-02-10

You obviously did not see my sarcasm. Search "Taser" or "Stungun" and count how many of them are made from disassembled disposable cameras. It will be in the hundreds, I assure you.

author
bylerfamily (author)Padlock2009-04-24

There are only 2 pages on both searches.No hundreds of instructables,sorry.

author
Padlock (author)bylerfamily2009-04-25

Geez. You must not know what a hyperbole is, do you?

author
bylerfamily (author)Padlock2009-04-26

I do,but I like taking people to seriously.:)

author
Padlock (author)Padlock2009-02-10

And most likely the book got the idea from the internet, not vice-versa. This has been around since the merchandising of portable cameras.

author
guydie5 (author)Padlock2009-02-21

that it true but i think this one looks cool... But dang it i sure am sick of camera tasers

author
guydie5 (author)2009-02-21

hey anyone know if it would work if i attatched three compasiters to each others wires and then use a nine volt battery to recharge it

author
Padlock (author)guydie52009-02-23

1. It's capacitor 2. With or without a circuit board? If you didn't use a step-up circuit then no, it wouldn't work. The most you could get is 27 volts, the minimum 9. It all depends how you wire it, and how you charge it.

author
kimiharu (author)2009-01-16

ooooh dangerous....

author
DIY Dave (author)2009-01-03

great instuctable much nicer than other camera tazer instructables

author
ac1D (author)2008-12-13

another one..

author
mrbob1000 (author)2008-12-13

I made one of these like this, only thing is that i used the cold cathode transformer from a scanner. Works great, and has a continuous spark.

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