Step 3: Make the center pattern
There are a few tricks here:
1. Do this RIGHT BEFORE you're about to put it in the oven. You don't want to give the center enough time to rise again.
2. Punch down the center manually first, but not too thin. If you do it too thin, the center can get crispy like a cracker. The Uzbeks in the Ferghana Valley also sell some other tool that does this (no pins, but just a ridge that's slightly larger than the chekich), but when I ventured farther West, people said they'd never heard of such a thing. You want to punch down an area slightly larger than your stamp. If you're using a fork, this is less of an issue.