Each step is one day.
First of all, my day job is software programmer. This is my first build. I have basic knowledge of wood working and I have some tools. The build is going to take a while (a month? two?). I only have time to work on it from 8PM until I go to sleep (about 3 hours) and in weekends when we have nothing else planed.
My plan is to keep the price under $1500 $2000. You can buy already made teardrops for $4000-$11000.
My Hyundai Sonata can pull a trailer of 1000lb max. My plan is to make the teardrop be under 700lb with all the equipment inside.
The only size of plywood that I can bring home is 4'x8', so everything that's made of plywood should fit in that size.
Here is how the side wall of the trailer should look like.
A list of parts with links from where I got them:
- Trailer. I'm going to use the 4x8 Super Duty Utility Trailer from Harbor Freight Tools to built the teardrop on. On the time of creation of the website, the trailer was on sale for $350. I got in mail a %20 off coupon and that made the price $280. Note: If 4' wide is not wide enough for you, you can use this trailer. It's a little more expensive, but 1 foot wider.
- Doors. You can build your own door. I won't. I'm afraid that I'm not going to be able to make it water tight, so I'm going to use already-built doors. You can get them from eBay for $240. I was lucky enough to find two brand new doors for $230 both, from someone who builds teardrop as a business. Note: You can use only one door on one side, and a window on the other side. I got two doors because they were cheap and I won't have to step over my wife if I have to pee at night.
- Vent. I need a vent to put on the top of the trailer. I need one that's able to move lots of air (the door windows won't open on my doors). From my research the best vent is "Fan-Tastic Fan". I already ordered one from eBay for $120.
- Hatch hindge. For the big door that lifts open at the back of the trailer. This should be water proof. I'm using a "Hurricane Hinge". Already ordered from eBay for $71. You also can get it from here.
- Porch Lights. I need two porch lights to install above the doors. Ordered 3 from eBay for $63. 12V LED.
- Dome Light. I also need some dome light for the inside the teardrop. Already ordered from eBay for $17.99. 12V LED.
- Water pump. The best pump I found is the 12V Whale GP1352 submersible water pump. You can buy it from eBay for as low as $25.
- Hatch handles. Got those from eBay.
- Aluminum. I called around all the sheet metal places that I found in my area until I got the best price. I got mine from http://www.ircalum.com , they are from Portland Oregon.
- Aluminum Molding. Go here and click "Online parts catalog" then go to "Moldings"
- Sink/Stove combo. Got it from here.
Tools I use:
- Box cutter
- Pencil
- Framing square
- Wrenches. Big ones. You'll need for the trailer 16mm, 17mm, 18mm wrenches (I suppose this depends on what brand of trailer you are using)
- Wireless drill
- Jigsaw
- Chop saw
- Table saw
- Sander
- Belt sander
Cost so far:
| Trailer |
$280 |
| Doors | $230 |
| Vent (Fan-tastic Fan) | $120 |
| Hatch hinge (5' hurricane hinge) | $71 |
| 12V LED Porch lights (3 pcs) | $63 |
| 12V LED Dome light (1 pcs) | $18 |
| Black spray paint (2 bottles) | $12 |
| 1/2"x4'x8' Birch plywood x 3pcs (one for the floor and 2 for the side walls) | $120 |
| 5mm Utility plywood 4'x8' x 2pcs (for side walls interior) | $23 |
| 2x4x96 x 8pcs (for the frame, not sure if I'll use all 8 of them) | $22 |
| Exterior screws (1box) | $8 |
| Henry Asphalt Emulsion (1 gallon) | $12 |
| Brush | $3 |
| Bolts & washers & lock washers & nuts to bolt the floor frame to the trailer (3/8" x 3" 20pcs) | $26 |
| Bolts & washers & nuts for spare wheel (1/2" x 6" 2 pcs) | $6 |
| Hard foam insulation 1/2" 4'/8' (one sheet) | $10 |
| Hard foam insulation 3/4" 4'x8' (3 sheets) | $30 |
| Sink-Stove combo | $187 |
| 12V Cigarette lighter socket (2 pieces) | $16 |
| Automotive Fuse Holder Box Holds 6 Blade Fuses | $14 |
| Electric Facet & Pump System | $50 |
| 1/8" birch plywood (3 pieces) | $70 |
| Molding | $16 |
| Wood stain | $12 |
| Aluminum sheets 4x8 (1 pcs) 4x12 (2 pcs) | $170 |
| Aluminum molding, plastic insert for molding, External Drip Cap | $160 |
| 1 Gallon Contact Cement | $10 |
| TOTAL | $1759 |
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Signing UpStep 1: Day 1 - February 8th 2012
Feel free to click on the pictures to see them in full size for more details.
The trailer box opened. Looks small.
Lots of screws and parts.
Here are the doors I bought. Is two of them in that box, shiny and new.
Hmm. All the trailer parts look the same.
The trailer starting to get shape .
I had to go buy some more wranches, mine are too small. Enough for tonight.
I woke up in the morning with muscle pain everywhere. I discovered some muscle that I didn't know I had. Crawling on the floor trying to put a trailer together is not easy :-)
I'll have to paint the trailer frame black. Red with aluminum gray won't go nice.
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I didn't know you were a dorkbotPDX ! Perhaps I will see you there!
Did you buy the aluminum and trim at interstate RV Metal in Clackamas?
Thinking about building a teardrop. Is there another source for doors or will the same teardrop builder sell to others? Those e-bay prices are a little much for such a small door.
Thanks
Rick
Incidentally, to anneal aluminium, coat it with soap: when the soap darkens, its hot ENOUGH.
Steve
http://www.etrailer.com/hitch-2002_Toyota_Corolla.htm
The last month I've been trolling the web for suggestions in converting my 4x8 riding lawn mower trailer into a tearDrop and your thread has been the most in getting me closer to the start build date.
The pics with mom and the kid are so sweet. As it goes, when mom is happy, everyone ARE.
Don't forget to strap those bottles down in the rear..
As one requested, keep updating and add the "wish I had" bullets.
Keep having fun. :) 071512. Allen.
Silicone (caulk) the leading contact edges where the 2x meet the floor panel forward, to hold back puddle spash, water seal several coats and it will be good for a few years and the paint again.
About the insulation, I noticed that you used foam board insulation. Would there be anything wrong with using a spray foam to allow me to skip the taring and screwing on the underside? I know that it works great in homes and can not foresee any problems with using it on this project.
I am loving you design so far BTW. You've showing me that it's not as hard as I thought it would be.
The rigid foam 'e1ioan' used is great, and it can be purchased with a foil face on both sides I believe for even better insulation.
The way the foam panels are being installed is proof of that.
The wiring part just needs a little more fore though eg run conduit.
I know for a fact that spray foam fills in areas better than stiff foam, when using the correct product can be installed between walls without "blowing them out" many of them have a set PSI during expansion.
This guy has created a very doable DIY trailer, with a minimum of mess and fuss. Why use spray foam and get that crap everywhere, when you can get just as good insulation using the boards? And why install conduit? Do automobiles have conduit installed (except for some plastic sheathing)? No, they don't, and they seem to deliver 12v to the entire vehicle without any problem. He's trying to keep the weight down and conduit is overkill.
I checked your comments, it's just one nitpicking thing after another, and you haven't made a single instructable. Why don't you make an instructable, to prove you can do something, before going around and giving advice to everyone and cutting down someone's installation ability (which you did here)?
don
ps l agree once you get started it's not as hard to do as you feared.
It would need insulation.
Now I have to get off my backside and make one - no more excuses!
Thank you.