Ted Baer has created a series of small windmills designed for third world use over a period of three decades. This first in the series has evolved in simplicity and power. The aluminum vanes are constructed from a building flashing roll utilizing the pre-existing bend of the roll in construction. Two 16 " sections are riveted together to make one vane. The vanes clip on the spokes of the bicycle wheel using a "bent nail" and a bend in the vane. Detailed pictures will be provided shortly. The generator is a surplus permanent magnet motor and the uv resistant endless belting is purchased to length from online sources.
Output is a respectable 2 amps at 12 mph (18-20 volts) providing a cost effective alternative to a solar photovoltaic panels (if wind is available). The total cost of the windmill was less than $80 purchasing most items new (off-the-shelf). The two most expensive items were the permanent magnet motor (around $30) and the uv resistant round belting typically used in food processing plants to drive conveyors ($3 to $5 per foot).
The windmill does have a tail (see new photo). The frame is made from PVC pipe. It is important to use only a 24 to 27 inch rear solid axle bicycle wheel. The wheel is mounted to a PVC end cap via a hole drilled in the middle of the end cap.
The generator is a 24 volt DC permanent magnet motor. This one was surplus and used in old main frame disk drive units. DC permanent magnet motors are available through Internet surplus resources, but getting scarce. Here is a link that gives you more detail on sources and the types to look for: http://www.otherpower.com/otherpower_experiments_tapedrivemotors.html
The generator is mounted using a simple L bracket. Should be sturdy (not the typical shelf bracket) and both the motor and the bracket are secured with radiator hose clamps.
The windmill pole is electrical conduit that 1.5 inch PVC slides over. A short segment of PVC pipe is screwed into the metal conduit to create a bearing that the windmill pivots on (PVC to PVC).
The tail has to be counterweighted to balance the unit. Ted used a bunch of pennies and got it balanced perfectly. What else are they good for? :-)
I'm adding a couple of new pictures. Sorry we don't have more detailed steps with pictures. This was done some time ago.
Output is a respectable 2 amps at 12 mph (18-20 volts) providing a cost effective alternative to a solar photovoltaic panels (if wind is available). The total cost of the windmill was less than $80 purchasing most items new (off-the-shelf). The two most expensive items were the permanent magnet motor (around $30) and the uv resistant round belting typically used in food processing plants to drive conveyors ($3 to $5 per foot).
The windmill does have a tail (see new photo). The frame is made from PVC pipe. It is important to use only a 24 to 27 inch rear solid axle bicycle wheel. The wheel is mounted to a PVC end cap via a hole drilled in the middle of the end cap.
The generator is a 24 volt DC permanent magnet motor. This one was surplus and used in old main frame disk drive units. DC permanent magnet motors are available through Internet surplus resources, but getting scarce. Here is a link that gives you more detail on sources and the types to look for: http://www.otherpower.com/otherpower_experiments_tapedrivemotors.html
The generator is mounted using a simple L bracket. Should be sturdy (not the typical shelf bracket) and both the motor and the bracket are secured with radiator hose clamps.
The windmill pole is electrical conduit that 1.5 inch PVC slides over. A short segment of PVC pipe is screwed into the metal conduit to create a bearing that the windmill pivots on (PVC to PVC).
The tail has to be counterweighted to balance the unit. Ted used a bunch of pennies and got it balanced perfectly. What else are they good for? :-)
I'm adding a couple of new pictures. Sorry we don't have more detailed steps with pictures. This was done some time ago.
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The test rig is a Windstar van with top rack and platform. The tripod is a roof TV antenna mount. Windspeed, volts and amps are taken and recorded with a digital camera. Video clips will be provided shortly.
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Then using the rear chain drive gear as used with bike engine kits, on just one of the wheels you could tie the wheel set to the generator with bike chain. The upside here is you could likely use the front bike wheel on the side not attached to the chain drive as it will be taking less torque. For durability it might help to put a torque brace as used with high power electric bike hub motors on the chain drive side.
Still pretty all right at is , good work, Phil aka zipperboy
Cons of doing it this way:
You lose a small amount of power to friction
Pros of doing it this way:
Your generator will run MUCH faster. In this rig, for every revolution of the wind wheel, the generator will get 5 revolutions. Faster turning = more power
Pros: You can spec out the motor exactly the way you need it, more efficient
Cons: Takes a lot of time.
This article has some different winding configurations if you choose to go that route.
Googled lace belt. I find womens fashion lace belts. But no lace belts that can be connected made in rubber or sturdy material.
Are you saying the belt is made of cloth?
If I connect a belt using a staple, it adds a bump. But not a smooth as a solid rubber alternator belt.
Any web links to a "lace belt?" or a link to a belt that would work?