The prototype was built with the Coach House Trust in Glasgow, using bottles from their recycling centre, and wood from the maintenance of their own sites. You can use any found timber, and adapt the dimensions to suit the wood you are working with.
Some examples are for sale at our shop here.
Design is released under a share alike/attribution CC license by Zero-waste Design.
Step 1: What you need.
Hook and eye strainers / turnbuckles as they are sometimes called (1 per shelf). I used the smallest I could find, which are 14mm OD a the buckle, with M5 (ie. 5mm diameter) threads. Such as these from Screwfix, or there is a greater variety at absoluteindustrial as suggested by Kroner78. These should have a minimum reach of 160mm ideally, but this can be extended with ess hooks or some chain perhaps.
Screw hooks (2 sturdy hooks per shelf - 4mm diameter ones are best, such as these from Techni-cable). Depending on the height of your bottles, you may need some ess hooks too to help the strainer reach between the upper and lower hooks (such as these at Warehouse Direct, although they're cheaper in a regular hardware shop).
2 x 32mm Glass plates such as these from Best are handy for securing the top shelf to the wall if you are going 4 shelves or higher.
Beer bottles (2 per shelf). All the same brand/height/shape preferable. Wash them thoroughly in hot soapy water - the longer they soak the easier it will be to get the glue off. Allow to dry.
You will also need a 32mm flat drill bit or, better still, a Forstner drill bit and a power drill.
Step 2: Prepare your timber/shelving material
Prepare the planks by planing if necessary, cutting to the desired size and sanding.
On the underside of each shelf, drill a row of holes down the length of the shelf. These should be marked out in pencil first, positioned centrally, 30mm apart and of 3mm diameter. Then use every other hole as a pilot for a larger 32mm hole, drilled to half the depth of the plank with a flat or Forstner bit. This step basically involves drilling two types of holes, alternately down the centreline along the length of each shelf.
If you are using laminated chipboard, consider routing any cut edges to disguise any chipping.
Step 3: Finish the timber
Finishing with oil, varnish or wax is optional, but is recommended if the shelves are to get heavy use (eg. in the kitchen). I like to give plain pine 2 or 3 coats of neutral coloured wax.
At this point you might want to attach glass plates at either end of the rear side of the top shelf.
If you are making up kits, I like to tape the fixings for each shelf to the respective shelf with masking tape as shown in the main picture. It also gives you a handy place to put your stamp!
Step 4: Assemble
Take your next shelf and place it on top of the bottles. Arrange the bottles to line up under any of the 32mm holes in the upper shelf. Note the position of the lower cup hook and screw in another hook in the corresponding position on the underside of the next shelf.
Replace the second shelf on top of the bottles. Adjust the bases of the bottles to ensure that they are flush with the lower shelf. Attach a hook and eye strainer, and ess hook if necessary , between the two hooks and tighten it up by turning the central buckle. The design of these turnbuckles varies, so you will have to experiment to see which way to turn the buckle in order to tighten it. Ensure that the screw hooks do not unscrew from the shelves as you tighten. The shelves may bend a little so be sure not to over-tighten the hook-and-eye strainer, but ensure that the upper shelf does not move from side to side. When you are done the unit should be rigid and liftable without deforming as shown.
Repeat steps 3 to 4 for the remaining shelves.
For every fourth shelf, or if the surface the shelves are sitting on is uneven, use glass plates and screw them into the wall for security.
Step 5: Play.
Step 6: Appendix: Hanging on a wall
I have devised a method for wall hanging these shelves. This instructable will show you how to do it.