Step 5: Resin Cast

The next stage was extremely dangerous (and smelly) so we only got a few photos at the beginning of this stage.

You'll need
- Resin kit You can buy the stuff separately - you need "the resin" and the catalyst.
- Gloves, goggles
- Clean plastic mixing/measuring cups (only to be used for this!)
- Stir sticks
- Very, very, very well ventilated area
- Exacto knife and sandpaper

First, read the directions on the resin. Read em again. Then mix the resin and catalyst in the appropriate amounts.

Pour the resin into the silicone mold - because of the undercuts in some places, I held open silicone slits as bro-in-law poured resin into them. Then we coated the entire mold in resin (and later added a second layer once the initial layer began to gel).

We ended up doing two more casts (one of the 'top eye' and one of the 'lower cheek') so it could move. We used the initial resin cast for when the skin-piece was sculpted.

Cut away the rough edges and sanded the entire piece. B.I.L. sanded down the bottom jaw piece so it moved smoothly under the cheek when he talks.
<p>Amazing job</p>
has version 2.0 happened? I will be doing this for next year's comicon. did you find a good way to keep the eye peace from saging?
<p>Nope - but if I were to redo it, I'd just make the whole thing out of latex (including skin and metal pieces) and then spend my time on application; really making sure it's secure in place with spirit gum or better yet pros-aide. Good luck!!</p>
<p>Your sister must have a pretty cool brother for you to have done this for her husband! Any chance you have other sisters that are single? Or perhaps your parents are open to an adoption? Your family must have a lot of love. Awesome job!</p>
Ha! Actually it's my sister-in-law-by-marriage, so it's my husband's <br> brother; I married into a pretty cool family that shares my biological <br>family's love and support for costume. <p>I do think however there <br>needs to be a costume-family-adoption-society! (But isn't that kind of <br>like what Instructables is in a way?)</p>
<p>NICE! I think I will use this for a different mask. been wanting to do some gills and tubes that light up. very bio borg. thank you for the instructable!</p>
<p>Well here is 1 of the 3 winners for the Form 1+! Please enter your Instructable in the Formlab Contest so I can vote for it. Epic job.</p>
Pretty well done mate.
&quot; Does anybody remember when if you wanted to make a costume, you had to watch the movie, pause the VHS and jot down notes before it started playing again? No? Anybody? Anybody? Bueller?&quot; <br> <br> <br>My brother did that exact thing to build a Ghostbuster proton pack back in the early 90's
What alternates are there instead of Ultra Cal 30? I can't seem to find it in the UK (or perhaps it has a different name over here).
Are you needing the UC30 for just the head cast? (Or are you also planning on using it for molds in slush/liquid latex casts.) UC30 is important because captures detail and it's strong. Don't quote me on this, but try looking for Crystacal R. I think that may be the &quot;UK equivalent&quot;. <br> <br>I just made a brand new cast of myself using a different cement-ish material. I didn't care too much about detail (I just needed an overall 'head shape') so that's why I switched. I'll be pulling off the plaster of paris mold tomorrow, so I'll let you know how it goes either way!
Great will look into that, thanks.
Alright, so I pulled my new head cast and it's...alright. I used Masonry Mix (specifically, Mason Mix Type S Mortar Commercial Grade by Quikrete). Even though I added more water to the mix than specified, it still was a bit goopy, so my nose wasn't completely filled in. I'm going to guess that it's also heavier than my UC30 head - I say guess because the cast was of my head, neck and upper-most torso and not just my head. There isn't the same amount of detail, but it's 'good enough' for what I need.<br><br>This cast also came out a bit wonky, but I think that would have happened with UC30. Since I was also casting my neck and upper torso, there was a lot of weight being put down on the head while the mix cured. So when I took out the plaster cast, the top of my head was flat! (And the sides of my head a big bigger, as the extra mortar had to go somewhere!) If I had better shoulder support for the cast, things might have been different, but if I was thinking, I would have sealed up the bottom of the torso and poured in the mix through the top of the head.<br><br>I used a mortar mix this time round because my plaster cast was pretty awful, so I didn't want to waste precious UC!<br><br>So long story short; UC30 is still the best way to go, but you can use a (just-add-water) mortar mix if you're not concerned about detail!
Handy to know, thanks for the update.
I'm working on a version of 'The .45 Longslide, with laser sighting.' I'll add a link when I'm done.
Top-notch work! I can't get enough of the Terminator franchise!

About This Instructable




Bio: I'm an indie game developer who enjoys making costumes, comics and cupcakes. I like video and board games, halloween, and laser dolphins.
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