The 1lb Boxed Screw Storage Rack





Introduction: The 1lb Boxed Screw Storage Rack

Does this cluttered shelf look familiar? You probably have at least one. Maybe it's house paint, or the dreaded spray paint stored 14 rows deep, or as in my case, boxed screws and nails. Whatever the item, the one you want, is of course in the back ... and probably on the bottom. It never fails! No matter how I arrange them, the one I want has taken cover in the back of the stack.

As with most organizational problems in my workshop, my solution came in the form of plywood and hardboard. My outstanding sketching abilities also played a minor role.

Step 1: Cutting the Dadoes and Rabbets

It's easier, quicker, and far more accurate to cut dadoes in two sides of a cabinet/rack/shelf, while it's still one piece. Also, since I'm really not sure how many shelves I can get out of this scrap plywood and have no desire to work out the math, overall length will be determined at the end of this step.

The first task was to set my blade height. I went with 2 plies by eye, but you could use a depth gauge if desired.

Second task was to cut the location of the top rabbet. I set my fence at 5/8" because the 1/8" blade kerf will give me the overall desired 3/4" depth.

Third task was to move the fence over 2 1/8" (I want 2" spaces and I need to account for the 1/8" kerf which has just been cut), take a pass, nudge the fence 1/16", take another pass. These two passes combined give me a 3/16" dado to accomodate the thickeness of the hardboard.

Repeat step 3 until you either run out of board, or get your desired number of shelves. Remember to accomodate for the bottom 3/4" rabbet and then trim off any excess.

Step 2: Drilling Holes

I want easily removed boxes ... none of this trying to grab an edge with a fingernail, or screwdriver, or knife nonsense. I want cut outs for quick, one-handed retrieval.

Just like the dado process, it's easier, quicker, and far more accurate to drill a complete hole/circle, than it is to drill a semi-circle.

I found the center of each section, marked the hole with my shop made awl, and then drilled out with a 1 3/4" Forstner bit. Seriously, if you don have a set of Forstner bits, treat yourself … you deserve it.

A drilling method I use consistently for clean holes is as follows:
I lower the bit till it just touches my backing board, lock the depth stop, and drill my hole. Now, when I flip the board over, I'll have a small pilot hole, which is perfectly aligned for guiding the Forstner bit. Drilling from both sides like this eliminates ALL blow out on the finished surface. Perhaps others don't get blow out with a backer board, but I haven't experienced consistent results.

Step 3: Additional Rabbets and Separation

I wanted rabbets on the back edges to receive the back hardboard panel. These rabbets are at the same depth as before and also 3/16" wide. I also cut this rabbet on the top and bottom pieces, which you'll see in the next step.

I could've cut these during the first rabbeting session, but since I wasn't sure of my overall side depths, I left it for later in case I need to trim this panel down. As it turned out, I didn't, and nor will any one else since all my final dimensions are listed at the end of this Instructable.

With the holes finished, it's time to rip this panel in half to form the two sides. I got pretty dead center, but to make sure they were identical, I ran both pieces against the fence after separation.

Step 4: Assembly

Dadoes and rabbets make assembly pretty simple since everything aligns and slides into place. I glued and brad nailed the sides to the top and bottom, slid the hardboard shelves into place, and then glued and pin nailed the back panel. I was thinking ahead and had already cut a quick french cleat out of scraps, which was also attached with glue and brad nails. A few clamps were added to keep everything in place, but they really weren't necessary.

Step 5: Finishing

After a bit of sanding, I finished with 50/50 boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits and then branded the back hardboard panel.

Step 6: Complete

All finished and hung on my tool wall. Now I can actually see that I'm out of 1" screws ... good thing I built for expansion.

Note: This could easily be scaled up/down to accommodate larger/smaller boxes of screws .. or any other like sized items you might want to organize.


Starting panel for the two sides: 23 1/8" x 7 5/8"
Finished Side panels: 23 1/8" x 3 3/4"
Top and Bottom panels: 5 5/8" x 3 3/4"
Hardboard Shelves: 5 5/8" x 3 1/2" (Close to 3 3/16")
Hardboard Back panel: 22 3/4" x 5 5/8"



    • Paper Contest 2018

      Paper Contest 2018
    • Science of Cooking

      Science of Cooking
    • Pro Tips Challenge

      Pro Tips Challenge

    We have a be nice policy.
    Please be positive and constructive.




    First Off - Excellent Piece Man, I am totally stealing it ;-).

    Next, I just wanted to point out 1 or 2 things. It would be great if the instructions you created were more robust in their completeness. I.e. If you included a materials list. I.e 3/4" PlyWood / 3/16" Hardboard and then lastly as a Desk Top tech it should be written like a knowledge document/Installation Guide - bulletined instruction with crystal clear directions vs narration. It will produce a set of instructions that are much more repeatable with homogeneous results

    No stealing involved - it's out in the ether for public consumption and I'm sure I'm not the first to make something like it.

    I hear you on the parts list. The info could be gathered from the write up, but having a concise list could/would be beneficial. I can work on adding them at the end.

    As for writing style, I just don't enjoy the technical approach. It's boring and probably why I don't read many manuals. Instructables is a hobby and takes time, so I'm going to enjoy that time, which means writing in my chosen style. I hear and understand what you are saying, I just don't want to do it.

    LOL I Hear you brother! Ill have to send you pics as soon as I finish it!

    I made it in a few hours, I need all of the organization help I can get

    The hanging system is called a French Cleat. It is a traditional way of hanging a variety items on individual boards. You can add a slight back angle by making the bottom spacer thicker.

    That is very nice, will def look at making some of these for various boxes/various sizes when I put my workshop up in the next couple of months. At present I am restricted to the (very disorganised) garage where the wife insists on keeping the cars!!

    Sweet! Great design.

    very nice, I especially like the way it hangs on the wall, something like that had never occured to me, very neat!