Step 3: Rewire the battery holder

Now you are going to do some re-wiring to convert the 4xAAA holder into a 3xAAA holder with space for the LEDs. You have already removed the negative spring contact, but now you have to move the positive contact and red wire to the other end for your third battery. Take a thin flat head screw driver and pry under the positive contact until it loosens. You may have to also insert the screw driver vertically between the contact and the plastic housing wall to loosen it up the locking tab. See first picture

Then pull the contact and wire out of the case. See second picture

Now you will insert this contact and red wire to the other end of the case to complete the circuit. Notice how I am running the red wire inside the battery chamber.
See third picture

Now you will need to run the red wire to the corners like shown to make room for the battery. A small screw driver or thin blunt object helps. Be careful not to cut the wire or break the insulation.
See 4th picture

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When I clean my <a href="http://www.ugglinks.com/" rel="nofollow"><b>UGG Boots</b></a>, I always be so careful and gentle. I perfer use my hands to other instruments. I suggest to use Diaopai soap than other detergents because I think Diaopai soap can wash my <a href="http://www.ugglinks.com/ugg-30th-anniversary-c-65.html" rel="nofollow"><b>UGG Classic Boots</b></a> so clean and white. First, you should make Diaopai soap full foaming and then use your hands to make your boots be full of bubble. All these are done and then you can use your hands to constant rubbing on the surface, which is in order to make your boots new. From <a href="http://www.ugglinks.com/" rel="nofollow"><b>UGG Boots Outlet</b></a>.
Nice. I'm going to built a Single AA powered one using a 2 cell battery holder. Hopefully it will last at least 3 hours. Should cost about $3 with shipping included.<br /> <br /> *Housekeeping: Your should check your Links. Some don't work.<br /> Shipping kills the deal. Might check eBay and Dealextreme. That's where I'm getting my stuff.<br />
Hi! Your idea seems great -here's my take on the same problem:<br /> <a href="http://www.instructables.com/id/Cheap-video-light-from-a-cap-light/" rel="nofollow">www.instructables.com/id/Cheap-video-light-from-a-cap-light/</a><br />
Alternately, you can stick a Pak Lite on top with a rubber band or epoxy (a drop of hot glue) !<br /> <br /> reg<br /> ketan<br />
they sell this at the make store now
i think i saw something moving behind the toilet :O
You can also use this calculator to calculate your resistor value if you got LEDs with different specs. <a rel="nofollow" href="http://ledcalculator.net">http://ledcalculator.net</a><br/>
The <strike>$2</strike> <strong>$15</strong> LED Camera Light for Video and Photos, at least when you figure in minimum orders and shipping prices. Of course, it's absolutely free if you have all this junk around already.<br/><br/>I think the single resister with all the LEDs in parallel is considered a bad practice unless you match the voltage drop of the LEDs carefully. To fix this, however, is a small rewiring job and 2 more resisters.<br/><br/>Otherwise, looks good. I have a &quot;DOT-it&quot; LED area light that has the exact same circuit. They run about $5-10 each, come with batteries, and could be salvaged for everything but the case/switch and screw.<br/>
I agree with your comment about using one resistor per LED. I tried to imply the circuit wasn't optimal when I said &quot;This is not the most efficient want to drive LEDs but it works very well for the price&quot; but I could have at least given the option. I can try to add the circuit later. I too have one of these DOT-it LED lights and that is where I first saw the circuit using one resistor. Then I also saw it on a cheap USB light. In fact the LED legs were just simply soldered together with no PCB. I adopted that method because of its simplicity and lack of PCB. The soldering is a bit trickier but in the end it has fewer parts. I talk more about this on my <a rel="nofollow" href="http://prodmod.com/2007/12/15/make-your-own-led-camera-light-for-only-2-lasts-longer-than-camerabright/">site in step 5</a>. But I should add the note to this instructable too. Thanks for the feedback, please keep it coming. I am still updating this project with better features as time permits.<br/>
Realistically, it may only be important when you run the LED at the edge of it's performance window. The idea is that perhaps one of the LEDs has a slightly lower voltage drop and ends up taking more than it's fair share of current. When it blows, the remaining two each get to shoulder a higher current rate, and fail by themselves too. The Sylvania DOT-it light is either under-driven, or the manufacture counts them as practically disposable, or more likely both. It was a pain in the @$$ to get my little LED light apart enough to even change the batteries, let alone trying to tweak the aiming of the LEDs (I found the light too narrow a beam for my intended use, although it does seem to make a nice flashlight)
I just realized I did put a disclaimer on step 5 about the better way to protect LEDs using one resister per LED. But anyway, agreed. Its an easy fix. You can use the same <a rel="nofollow" href="http://ledcalc.com/#calc">LEDcalc link</a> to figure it out. Just go straight to the main page and type in the parameters. For this circuit at 4.1V it suggests a 47ohm resistor to keep each LED under 20mA. But if you buy the LEDs I list above or in my kit you can run them a bit over 20mA.<br/>
GREAT job, looks a bit complicated, but it looks awesome, and it fits perfectly on that camera, amazing Instructable, nice job.
very nice instructable! i love it and i plan to make it soon, my sister sold me her old camera, and it takes great video, but not in the night. one thing i say to every instructable that involves LED's, put a claculated resistor on each of the LEDs to protect them. very nice instructable though. -gamer

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