A fairly quick, and easy headphone stand design that can be scaled to any size. It actually costs less than 3 dollars - the baton costs about 2 singapore dollars and the MDF base costs about 2 dollars for 6.
These are the basic tools and materials i used, though i seem to have forgotten to have the fairly standard file i used included in here. Shown
1x baton of wood - i used a 25x25x450mm baton with a trench cut in it - it looks nice, and its slightly easier to work with as you will see later.
screws - at least 1.5 as long as the wood depthwise - since we'll be screwing together the wood. I used 3.5mm x 40 mm screws
pin vise or similar with a 3.0mm (or slightly smaller than the screws) bit for pilot holes.
1x 10mm x 10mm x 6mm MDF or other wood for the base.
Essential - A saw, preferably a good one but you can make do with a slightly crappy one
some way to accurately remove a fairly large amount of wood - I use a gourge
A file or rasp to smoothen things while working on them
optional but heavily recommended - countersink bit (i didn't use one, i used the gauge, and the chisle bladed hobby knife to do a messy poor man's countersink
Mitre Box - I didn't use one for my original. they do make a lot more possibilities available
Step 1: Sizing and Estimation.
Step 2: The Crosspiece Pt 1
We're going to make an indent for the crosspiece to rest on.
Saw down as far as you want the indent to be. You don't want it to be so deep as to weaken that area, and not shallow enough to be useless. 1/5th the depth of the wood would be a good starting point. Use the gourge (or a chistle, or some other tool) to remove as much of the wood as possible between the two saw lines. If you have a saw which is messy and has a wide kerf, its perfect for this as well. Once you have it roughed out file it smooth.
You will HAVE to countersink the screw hole on the base - I used a gouge to do that, but a proper countersink bit will be just better - to get it to sit flush. Screw the base to the vertical bar...