I have a very small shop.  I wanted to put my drill press in the shop.  I did not want to take up space on my workbench  and I didn't want  to stuff it in the corner where the walls would get in the way when I worked on larger pieces.  The solution was a cart, but there is a reason why drill presses are not sold with wheels on them.

The Problem

A drill presses is very top heavy.  It needs a stable base.  If the floor is not completely flat, it is fairly easy for the center of gravity (cg) to shift outside of the area enclosed by lines connecting the contact points between the base and the floor while moving the base.  When that happens, the drill press tips.  Even if the cg doesn't cross the line, a drill press being moved on wheels has momentum.  When a wheel hits an obstacle, the bottom of the cart stops moving, but the momentum continues to push the cg.  Because the cg is high, there is a lot of mechanical advantage so even a little momentum can cause a tip.

The solution is to space the contact points as far apart as possible and to lower the cg as much as possible.  There is a limit to how wide and deep you can make a drill press base since you need to be able to easily reach the press handle. Likewise, there is a limit to how low you can Lower the heaviest part of the press.

Step 1: The $45 Drill Press cart - The Base

The solution

The solution, is to use a small drill press on a small cart and add weight to the bottom of the cart.  While I could have made a complete cart from scratch, I decided to save some time and start with a low workstation table that is sold by Harbor Freight.  The US General Adjustable Height Heavy-Duty Workstation is a small table designed to hold small shop tools. It has a steel frame and a dense particleboard top. What it does not have is wheels. My plan was to add wheels to the workstation, but I did not want to increase the height any more than necessary.

To attach the wheels, I planned to use two pieces of “one by” lumber. I wanted to attach the lumber to the bottom of the lower shelf. However, the length of the steel sport legs below the lower shell would interfere with the swiveling of the wheels. While I could have left the legs their full-length,and put the wheels in board further, or put them on “two by” instead of “one by” lumber, each of these solutions cause a problem. If I move the wheels in further, the contact points of the cart would be closer together. This would make it less stable. It would also make it hard to engage the locking lever on the caster wheels. If I use the thicker pieces of wood to attach the caster wheels, the cart would be higher. That also would make the cart less stable. The solution was to cut the support legs off  about three quarters of an inch below the bottom shelf. While this only took about an inch and a half off of the legs, it was enough to allow the casters to turn freely when they are close to the edges of the cart.  After shortening the legs, I assembled the rest the stand per the instructions that came with it. 
Instead of bulky paving stones or the very permanent concrete for adding weight to the base, I would recommend a square of iron or steel plate. Place some open webbed rubber matting used for shelves or tool boxes beneath the plate for grip and eliminating vibration, with a second mat on top of the plate to avoid rust marks on whatever is placed on top of it.
Nice work. Those cheap stands from Harbor Freight are nice. I was reticent to buy one, but I needed a general use stand in my basement. I bought it, and clamp my scroll saw to it. I also used their movers dolly (http://www.harborfreight.com/movers-dolly-93888.html) to build a cheap frame on, out of scrap, thick, ferring strips. I put a 2'x2'x.75" piece of plywood on top of it, and screwed/glued it down, and use it for a portable base for my heavy Hitachi dual compound, sliding miter saw.
Good sort out of the problem.

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