The basic principle of "The Climbing Chair": a chair supported by rope on 4 corners to keep it balanced in the air while sitting in it. It is attached to another rope used to hoist yourself up. By pulling down on the rope, you and the chair are lifted. There is also a lock attached (where the red circle is in the diagram) to allow the user to suspend without having to hold onto the rope. This allows you to just "hang out" after pulling yourself up. See diagram below.
When I was younger I loved to climb trees. Nothing was more exciting. In my backyard there was one tree in particular I wanted to climb. One problem though, the lowest branch was roughly 25 feet (7.6 meters) in the air. So I started to think of how I could possibly climb it. For some strange reason I thought of tying rope to a chair. It turns out it is a very effective way to climb. This project, as strange as it sounds, is fun and a great workout for your upper body.
Disclaimer:
I have always hated these things but here it goes: I take no responsibility and will not be liable for problems or injury that may occur. This can be dangerous so check and recheck your gear before climbing. Make sure all of the equipment you use can handle the weight many times the actual load. There, short and sweet.
When I was younger I loved to climb trees. Nothing was more exciting. In my backyard there was one tree in particular I wanted to climb. One problem though, the lowest branch was roughly 25 feet (7.6 meters) in the air. So I started to think of how I could possibly climb it. For some strange reason I thought of tying rope to a chair. It turns out it is a very effective way to climb. This project, as strange as it sounds, is fun and a great workout for your upper body.
Disclaimer:
I have always hated these things but here it goes: I take no responsibility and will not be liable for problems or injury that may occur. This can be dangerous so check and recheck your gear before climbing. Make sure all of the equipment you use can handle the weight many times the actual load. There, short and sweet.
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Signing UpStep 1: Materials and Tools.
Materials:
Lawn Chair - Any basic folding Lawn Chair with the same basic structure will work just fine. The reason I chose this chair was because it would be easier to weave the rope through and felt very sturdy. Also, this chair is reinforced with metal in the armrests which is a definite plus. The first version of "The Climbing Chair" was one of the cheap plastic ones made out of PVC, it worked just fine.
Rope - 50 feet (15.24 m) 1/2 inch (13 mm) of twisted Polypropylene rope. I would suggest getting braided rope but twisted will work just fine. This rope is rated at 420 lbs (191 kg).
More Rope - I went with another 50 feet (15.24 m), 1/2 inch (13 mm) thick twisted Polypropylene rope for the hoisting rope, but it depends on the height of the branch.
Quick Link or Locking Carabiner - A mid to large size will do just fine. Four ropes will have to fit inside. My Quick Link is 3/8 inch (10 mm) rated at 3000 lbs (1360 kg).
Eye Grab Hook - An Eye Grab Hook is made to work with chains but it is just the item for this job. The Hook should be 5/16 inch (8 mm) rated at 3,900 lbs (1769 kg).
Twine - 50 feet (15.24 m) of 1/8 inch (32 mm) nylon twine. It is rated at 40 lbs (18 kg). Twine is an optional item. It is not necessary but it gives added security to your climb and I have found it makes a cleaner look and a more comfortable climb.
Tools:
Knife - A sharp knife is important for getting a clean cut in the rope.
Ruler - Any measuring device will do.
Lighter - For melting the ends of the newly cut rope to prevent it from fraying or unraveling.
Electrical Tape - Aids in cutting the rope.
Aluminum Foil - Used in melting the rope but is not necessary.
Marker - Marking measurements on the rope.
Pocket Ref - by Thomas J. Glover. I call it the guide book to life, it is a great reference book to everything. It helped me find the right knots to use. I recommend picking one up. You can find more about it here: here on the publisher's website.
All of the materials can be found at any superstore or hardware store. I purchased all of the items for under 50 dollars (US) but I am sure many people have some of these items lying around the house.
Lawn Chair - Any basic folding Lawn Chair with the same basic structure will work just fine. The reason I chose this chair was because it would be easier to weave the rope through and felt very sturdy. Also, this chair is reinforced with metal in the armrests which is a definite plus. The first version of "The Climbing Chair" was one of the cheap plastic ones made out of PVC, it worked just fine.
Rope - 50 feet (15.24 m) 1/2 inch (13 mm) of twisted Polypropylene rope. I would suggest getting braided rope but twisted will work just fine. This rope is rated at 420 lbs (191 kg).
More Rope - I went with another 50 feet (15.24 m), 1/2 inch (13 mm) thick twisted Polypropylene rope for the hoisting rope, but it depends on the height of the branch.
Quick Link or Locking Carabiner - A mid to large size will do just fine. Four ropes will have to fit inside. My Quick Link is 3/8 inch (10 mm) rated at 3000 lbs (1360 kg).
Eye Grab Hook - An Eye Grab Hook is made to work with chains but it is just the item for this job. The Hook should be 5/16 inch (8 mm) rated at 3,900 lbs (1769 kg).
Twine - 50 feet (15.24 m) of 1/8 inch (32 mm) nylon twine. It is rated at 40 lbs (18 kg). Twine is an optional item. It is not necessary but it gives added security to your climb and I have found it makes a cleaner look and a more comfortable climb.
Tools:
Knife - A sharp knife is important for getting a clean cut in the rope.
Ruler - Any measuring device will do.
Lighter - For melting the ends of the newly cut rope to prevent it from fraying or unraveling.
Electrical Tape - Aids in cutting the rope.
Aluminum Foil - Used in melting the rope but is not necessary.
Marker - Marking measurements on the rope.
Pocket Ref - by Thomas J. Glover. I call it the guide book to life, it is a great reference book to everything. It helped me find the right knots to use. I recommend picking one up. You can find more about it here: here on the publisher's website.
All of the materials can be found at any superstore or hardware store. I purchased all of the items for under 50 dollars (US) but I am sure many people have some of these items lying around the house.
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Question is important as I guess that you will agree on the two following points :
1) a chair is not an armchair ; it is not meant to rest but to sit at a table and possibly do some work ;
2) I'm sure you didn't go into this painful useless knots (*) conceptions without having an idea of what you'll do in that tree.
(*) perfectly useless knots : 3 or 4 well made knots that one is able to tie and untie in any condition (numb hands or with one hand only, by night with no vision at all, done fast even in any position, etc…) are worth all the knots done by the book which give only a useless step by step instead of the true movement of the rope in one's hands.
More seriously I think that instructables as yours with knots so complicated as you show is downright dangerous as some will most certainly be badly done…
sorry for being so critical about your inst as you took great pain to post it but that's really what I feel about it.
encouraging others to do something dangerous = irresponsible for me
U
USE
A small point would be not to suggest to people to use bowlines. They are extremely strong knots when tied correctly, but it is very difficult for the average person to tell just by looking at it whether it has been tied correctly. Also under load and without a stopper knot they can very easily untie themselves. A much safer alternative to suggest would be a re-tied figure of eight. It is easier to identify, easier to tie and just as strong.
Finally an altogether better way of temporarily halting the ascent or descent would be to use a prusik knot, the French prusik would be best but the standard one works almost as well. It would take a lot of adjustment on the design: lower attachment point on the chair, removal of knots from rope, the purchase of a karabiner (as little as $5) and finally the purchase of 1m(ish) of 5mm static climbing cord.
Dont mean to rubbish the idea, but to keep it safe it needs some changes. Have a look at climbing and specifically 'aid climbing' techniques on the internet for ideas. [http://www.planetfear.com/includes/images/uploaded/842005729134411ascending%2520011.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.planetfear.com/article_detail.asp%3Fa_id%3D511&h=433&w=250&sz=50&hl=en&start=9&tbnid=QSTh0OyeXKkTwM:&tbnh=126&tbnw=73&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dascending%2Bropes%26svnum%3D10%26hl%3Den%26safe%3Doff%26sa%3DG This] is a good start, albeit a little full on.
<(.<) <(.)> (>.)>
Wow... This comment is late...
Dynamic rope are the normal type used for general climbing, leading, etc. They have about 5-8% elongation (good thing in a fall.)
Static ropes are used for long rappels, anchors, hauling, jugging (climbing) the rope. They stretch <1%. Static ropes also have 10x the abrasion and UV resistance. Static rope would be your best choice.
'course, if you invest in good ropes, you'll also probably buy ascenders, etc., and do it right ;-) ...
But I must say, from experience, this is not the most comfortable harness (if you know what I mean)