Step 1: Materials and Tools
Ends 2 per box ( ½ inch thick 12 x 7 inch or so wood or plywood ). This wood must be thick enough so that a sheet rock screw can be dirvin into it sideways ( parallel to a face ).
Sides 2 per box ( 3/8 inch thick 24 x 7 inch or so wood or plywood ). I was lucky enough to get a lot of discarded per-finished flooring about 3/8 thick. It is basically a super hard hardboard with a special finish on one side. Regular hardboard probably will not work, as the required rabbit would probably fail. Also it does not take dings on its edges or soft side well.
Sheetrock screws about 1 ½ inch long.
Table saw and screwdriver (power is nice). Box clamps or picture frame clamps can make assembly easier.
Step 2: Construction
I select the material for the sides and ends and rip it to the 7 inch height required. Sometimes I have to rip a true ( straight ) working edge on one side prior to ripping to width. Do the 7 inch cut on all the sides and ends at one time without adjusting the fence on the saw. If you are off, all the sides will at least be the same.
Cut the sides to the 24 long. Put a stop on the cross cut fence so you do not have to measure each piece and so they are all the same. Measure the thickness of the two together and subtract it from the width of the ends ( 7 tall x 12 inch wide ) This will give you 2 ends about 7 x 11 � inch ( depending on the thickness of your sides.
Cut the ends to you calculated width.
The bottom is held in by a grove ( rabbet ) all around the bottom of the side and ends ( this puts a limit on how thin a material you can use for them.
With the table saw cut a groove wide enough to accept the thickness of the bottom, about � inch up from the bottom of the sides and ends. The groove should penetrate about � way through the material. Deeper is better because it holds the bottom better, too deep and the grove weakens the sides and end. The fence on the saw will probably have to be moved a few times to make the grove wide enough. Cut all pieces before moving the fence. I also run each piece thru the saw twice for each cut to make sure the cut is good.
Butt the sides against one end and fasten with sheet rock screws. I usually set this up with clamps prior to driving the screws. The sides should be drilled and countersunk prior to driving the screws. Try to be accurate right in the middle of the ends ( by thickness ). I use 2 screws on each joint, at least 1 inch from the top and bottom ( to avoid splinting ).
Then fit the bottom to slide in the groove. This will give a bottom of about 12 x 24 ( a little smaller in all directions ) The exact dimensions depend on the thickness of the materials for the ends and sides and the depth of the grooves. I usually make it oversize, do a trial fit, and then shave it off bit by bit until the fit is just right. The fit should be very close, so use care. One fourth of an inch off and the bottom is trash.
Slide in the bottom and fasten the second end. You are done except for possible accessorization.
The inside of the finished box is quite close to 12 x 24 x 6 or one cubic foot.
Step 3: Accessorize and Use
I now use the boxes for all sorts of storage in addition to harvests. I have made more than 30 of them.
A piece of rope through the ends of the box make a nice handle for carrying the box. Fill with tools and take 2 cubic feet of tools (one in each hand ) to your project. The size of the box is pretty good for tools, any larger and it is easy to make the box too heavy to carry. See the picture.
A handle on the end of the box turns it into a drawer, put it on a shelf, or make a rack to hold a bunch of them. I have made several sets of drawers like this, see the picture.
If you get ambitious use a more interesting joint between the sides and ends. I have done some with mitered joints, and some with finger joints, these boxes are good practice because if you muff it and the joint does not look good the the box will still be useful.