## Step 1: THE CHARGING CIRCUIT

THE CHARGING CIRCUIT:
Let's go through this in steps.  It is actually very simple but you have to follow along closely, especially as we go into the step on the following page.

We start at TERMINAL BLOCK#1 and will continue clockwise around the circuit!
1) This is where you have options.  We need a DC source of anywhere between 5VDC-20VDC for our charge.  I use a 11VDC@1A power supply, but I occasionally use a set of mini solar panels that I have in my window.  The choice is yours.  Just make sure that when you plug in your DC source, you are making sure that you have the correct DC polarity for DC+ and ground (DC-).

2) We have a 0.1uf capacitor and a 100uf capacitor in parallel with the input DC line.  We only really need these because this line is for the charging of the capacitor bank, but we will be using this input line to power our digital display and we want to make sure that this DC line is smooth and without extra noise.  The 0.1uf capacitor takes care of high frequency noise, or rather, lessens it (Decoupling capacitor).  The 100uf capacitor acts to smooth the input DC.  These two capacitors are not really necessary but they are preferred.

3) The LM317 is a variable DC-DC power supply.  Using a 240 Ohm resistor in parallel with the VOUT and the ADJ line, and a 5k ohm variable resistor from the ADJ line and ground, we can vary the charge voltage from the charge voltage itself, down to 1.25v.  For instance, if we have 8v at the input, we can vary the output anywhere between 8v down to 1.25v.  It is EXTREMELY important that your LM317 is properly heat sinked, as it will get HOT.  The LM317 kit can be found here: http://cgi.ebay.com/DIY-LM317-Variable-DC-power-supply-kit-PCB-Parts-/180609634986?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a0d2c52aa

4) Varying the current to the super capacitor bank is the name of the game.  This is where you have the opportunity to gamble.  Since the super capacitors will literally suck up all the energy it is given until full (With >0.01 Ohm ESR), we have to limit the current from the supply, or else we're going to completely destroy our LM317 circuit.  As you can see, we have two 2.2 Ohm, 5W power resistors, a jumper, and a SPST (Single Pull Single Throw) switch.  If the switch is off (Recommended), and the jumper is not attached, then the charge limitation is 2.2 Ohms.  Wait a minute!  That is too small of a current limiter!  You're still going to hurt your LM317!!!  Not the case!  If properly heat sinked, the LM317 will get hot but it will withstand the stress if you have this 2 Ohm load. The output voltage will drop down but you will see it come back up as the capacitor starts to charge.  We have three charge options here.  If you have a charge of 4v or higher, make sure that you have the jumper off, and the switch off.
A) Charge limited by 2.2 Ohms when JUMPER=OFF/ SPST=OFF
B) Charge limited by roughly 1.1 Ohms when JUMPER=ON/SPST=OFF
When you add the jumper, you place the two 2.2 Ohm resistors in parallel with one another, bringing the parallel resistance down to half.  Please note that these resistors get hot.
C) Charge limited by the line resistance and capacitor ESR only when JUMPER=ON or OFF/SPST=ON
If the SPST is switched on, it doesn't matter how the resistor jumper is configured.  The only resistance between the output of the LM317 and the capacitor banks is the line (trace) resistance, and the ESR of the capacitors (Yet to be seen).  This is where you have to have cohones!  Again, your LM317 can handle this if properly heat sinked (Heat sink included in kit), as the output voltage will drop down to the cap voltage and start to charge.  However, this should only be used for charges of 1.5v or less.  If you are charging the bank from 0v to 5.4 v, it will charge relatively quickly using the 2.2 Ohm charge option.  However, around 3v of charge, it will start to slow down.  At this point, take the jumper off to limit the current to 1.1 Ohm.   At around 4.5v, you will notice that the charge will slow down again.  Flick the switch to charge the remaining 900mv, and you will have no problems.  Truth be told, I've charged from 2v to 5.4v with the switch on, but it is NOT good practice, and I was risking my LM317.

5) We have two IN4001 diodes in series with the charge line.  These are not used for any type of rectification, but rather to allow DC charge to enter the capacitor bank, but not allow for any DC to travel backwards through the circuit after the capacitor bank is charged.  If we didn't have these diodes here, follow the circuit backwards.  Regardless of whether the jumper is on or off, or whether the SPST is on or off, there is a path back to the LM317, and there is a 240 Ohm resistor in a series path with a 5k potentiometer and ground.  If we stopped charging (without the diodes), the charge on the caps would leak back through the circuit to ground, making our batteries terribly inefficient.  There are two diodes in parallel to share the current along the line.  If you have 1N4007s, or any 1N400X diodes, they will work just as well if not better.  There are factors such as thermal runaway that we could spend time worrying about with these diodes in parallel, but the charge time from start to finish for this circuit is literally 10 minutes or less , so we're not going to worry about that at all.

6) The jumper (JUMPER#2) like a lot of this circuit is a custom option.  If you are not going to watch the digital display (Seen later) as your super capacitor bank charges, then you are going to want to follow this step.  When you build this charge circuit, probe the output of the diodes (TEST POINT) with reference to ground using your multimeter.  There will be a voltage drop along the diodes, so we need to make sure that we measure here, and not at the anode end of the diode.  Since we have a 5.4v MAX capacitor bank, we DO NOT want to have a charge higher than 5.4v.  Check the voltage here using the 5k potentiometer at the LM317.  Turn the potentiometer until you see a voltage of 5.2v-5.4v, then consider using a bit of hot glue to set the pot to steady it.  You may think, why use the pot, and not a fixed resistor?  You can, by all means, but you may want to change the charge voltage down the road.  Now, the jumper is here because on the other side of the jumper lies the capacitor bank.  If you test the voltage here when you have the jumper on, you will read the voltage at the capacitor bank, not the voltage that it will be charging to.  You only take the jumper off when you want to take a charged reading.  Leave it on at all other times.
<p>I would suggest buying a switching current limiter, you're paying that much pay a few more dollars (2\$?! I found mine for around 2-3\$) and mine didn't generate even the tiniest amount of heat while charging at 2A! (mine is 50F! charges my phone for 2 minutes :c)</p>
<p>I need for PV to run a motor ...pl advice.</p>
<p>If i just want to charge the capacitors , without the DC-DC convertor and LED screen , can i just use the charging circuit ? I'm making an RC car and i dont need al these extras . I just need a power supply that can charge fast .</p>
<p>Super experiment. But why do people still use the lithium ion polymer batteries? Why aren't mobile phone manufacturers switching over to super caps? </p>
If you have the money or if you Can use a 24inch phone you can make one :)
Capacitors are way bigger than the batteries.
<p>because supercapacitors are ten times less energy dense than batteries. so a supercapacitor with the same capacity as a battery will be ten times larger. supercapacitors are also 10x more expensive.</p><p>not to say that it's not being done... SCs have already found their way into power tools. research on SCs is very active. wait for supercapacitor-battery hybrids on your phone in a couple of years</p><p>http://www.technologyreview.com/news/417053/a-battery-ultracapacitor-hybrid/</p>
<p>very Cool</p>
How long it gives power and what about the self discharging of the super cap
<p>http://laserhacker.com/?p=110</p>
<p>Tried the ebay link but says does not exist !</p><p>Anyone know if still selling these ? </p>
maybe you should make your dc booster work at lower voltage than 3.4 so you would be able to connect the supercaps in parallel. Otherwise it is an enormous waste of capacity and money.
<p>I absolutely agree, also this circuit has no protection around supercapacitor and the 317 LDO regulator it's not the best choice, without the diode trough out to in it's exposed to reverse currents that can literally destroy it. I will use a switching with slow startup. I also not understand why use 2xIN4001 in parallel, maybe better a skottky.</p>
If the voltage from the capacitors' configuration is higher (series), less current is drawn. <br> <br>In parallel, twice the amount of current is drawn by the booster. <br> <br>Power = Voltage * Current <br> <br>Thus, you do not gain anything from parallel configuration except the fact that equivalent internal resistance (ESR) is halved. That can help in quick high current demands. <br> <br>The real concern is the efficiency of the booster. Capacitors should be arranged in a configuration to produce voltage at which the efficiency of the booster is maximum.
If I understood it right, then the energy stored in an capacitance calculates through the term E = 0.5 * C * U^2. With the given Caps (400F, 2.7V) and the two possible configurations that means:<br> <br> E(parallel) = 0.5 * (400F + 400F) * 2.7 ^ 2 = 2916 J<br> <br> E(serial) = 0.5 * 200F * (2.7V + 2.7V) ^ 2 = 2919 J<br> <br> So the max. stored Energy is the same for both configurations. -&gt; No waste of money ;D<br> <br> Correct me if I made a mistake ;)<br>
You are correct. The configuration does not matter. The energy stored is always the function of capacitance and voltage.
I've never heard of a booster circuit that can boost less than 3.4VDC up to a maximum of 34VDC while sourcing a relatively high current output. If you are talking about a joule thief of some kind, then yes, you can boost less than a volt, but not up to a relatively high DC voltage, and with an extremely limiting current output. <br> <br>If you can point me to a booster circuit that can do what you're saying, then by all means let me know about it and I'll surely implement it. <br> <br>As well, the user does not have to use two 400f caps in series. They can use 2x 3000f caps in series, or slightly modify the power supply charger to work with a 12v capacitor bank. <br> <br>Regardless, I've already saved about \$50 in the past several months on batteries, so it really isn't fair to suggest that it is a waste of money, especially since super capacitors last one hell of a lot longer than batteries if treated well.
<p>Hi Dear,</p><p>u tutorial is good enough to charge super capacitors...</p><p>i want to ask if i connect 6 super capacitors of 350F in series that will become 16.2v and 58F approx...is the above mentioned circuit is capable to charge this bank of 16.2V and 58F...if not then which changes we should make..?</p><p>your urgent response will be appreciated.</p><p>thanks in advance.</p>
<p>Wow...is it possible to do implement in a large scale</p>
Would you have an idea if I could use a set up like this to power a raspberry pi B+ while I'm away from a wall socket or even in the wilderness? I know the B+ saves power compared to earlier versions but it still takes 5VDC in, and runtime is my main concern.
<p>I want to build a little circuit to run 6 or 8 LEDs at night and powered by a solar cell which can charge all day long. I want to store the energy in Supercapacitors during the day and run the lights at night. How many farads do I need to power the lights for a few hours? </p>
I have external usb battery pack that uses 4 3.7v 2400mah batteries, roughly 10.2ah total. what size cap(s) would i need to replace them? The charger has circuit protection 5v 2amp in and out capability.adjustable output.
<p>I'd like to replace the battery system (6 AA batteries in series) in a Lego Mindstorms EV3 &quot;Brick&quot;. Would you think out a kit that I could get from you? It wouldn't have to fit in the same space. Alternatively, do you have something that would have USB power output?</p>
<p><a href="http://tek-think.com/2015/02/13/home-experimenter-tries-replace-car-battery-capacitors/" rel="nofollow">http://tek-think.com/2015/02/13/home-experimenter-...</a><br>Thoughts?</p>
<p>I, your site is very interesting, and I hope to find an anwer for my problem.</p><p>I am trying to hook up a switching power supply to a car subwoofer it work find until I increase the volume.</p><p>I tryed to install a capacitor 1 farad in paralell and my 500watt supply doesnt startup a all.</p><p>I have no problem with an analog supply at 2 amp.</p><p>anybody have a solution.</p><p>thank you</p>
<p>I am building a 3 KW solar panel for my home. I want to use super capacitors instead of batteries. How feasible is it and how do we connect it?</p>
<p>yes, it can be done. just use regulators for charging and for the load.</p>
what is DC-DC BOOSTER CIRCUIT.???? <br>PLZ SEND DETAILS, WHICH BJT OR FET USED FOR BOOSTER CIRCUIT <br>
<p>DC-DC converter means 5.4 v to 12 v step up or 5.4 v to 1.5 v step down.</p>
<p>WHy in the name of God would you think that he would want to give you information about this when he is trying to sell the kits?<br><br>My God...</p>
<p>hi, the dc-dc booster is a pre-built module. You buy it as-is, ready to use. That's why it's easy. Just have to plug Vin, Vout and GND.</p>
<p>Could one be built to run a small heater fan? How long could you run a 1500 watt heater fan on a single charge.</p>
Where the f*ck you found those capacitors??and how much?????
So... Should I be able to convert Farads to Ah or is that completely wrong? How long am I able to draw how high a currents from this? It's confusing but really seems very much fun :)<br><br>Also, how long would these have to charge?
Super capacitor vs battery comparison: <br> <br>(5 * &quot;Capacitance&quot; * &quot;Voltage&quot;) / 36 = Battery rating in mAh at &quot;Voltage&quot; <br> <br>I deduced it based on the energy equivalence of the two reservoirs. <br> <br>Hopefully, it is correct.
<p>Shouldn't it be (5*C*V)/18 ?</p>
<p>0.5 * C * (V ^ 2) = I * V * t</p><p>R(Ah) = (0.5 * C * V) / 3600</p><p>R(mAh) = (5 * C * V) / 36</p><p>This assumes that there is an ideal voltage to voltage converter that keeps the output voltage constant as the capacitor drains.</p>
<p>wow, brilliant instructable.</p><p>Can these be setup to run off say 2x ( or more) 1.5w @ 17.5v trickle charge solar panels, plus to output at either USB (5v @1A) or 12v feed? Do you have a circuit diagram ( adjusted values) i can make it into for the solar input and the USB / 12v output.</p><p>Thanks</p><p>Keep up the good work</p>
This is just MIND BLOWING I don't even know what to do 2500 cycles
<p>Like one of your Super Capacitor Battery to power my HHO Hydrogen System in my Car. On 24 Volt - how much Current could I draw ? Could it handle 15 Amp ?</p>
<p>(Please note I am not the author of this instructable.)</p><p>Well... Just check the datasheet of your caps... Some go as high as 2000+ amps! (However, I don't really think their shelf life is anywhere close to infinite... In fact, I believe they are worse than regular batteries.)</p>
<p>I have 1 x 65 watt 12 volt solar panel that actually runs around 17 volts and around 1 - 2 amps<br><br>However I want / need to increase the amps and lower the voltage going into my charge controller to something like 14 or 15 Volts while increasing the amps a little to at least 5 amps using capacitors / transformer or whatever will be needed<br><br>how can I achieve this at the lowest cost possible?<br><br>More info you may need I am using a 30 amp (max) charge controller PWM that isnt getting enough amps from the 1 panel to charge 12 volt dc battery (100 ah).<br>by adding a 25 volt capacitor across the solar panel input on the pwm charge controller this will increase the amps ???<br><br>Please note i cant buy another solar panel or buy a mppt charge controller as i cant afford that, so my capacitor idea if it is a good idea we all could use to gain more amps if this is not the case please let me know :)</p>
<p>Supercaps FTW! :D</p>
Could I make it so charging to 5.4v begins as soon as wall adapter is plugged in, similar to manufactured electronic devices with a charging jack?
<p>Hi, this was not clear to me. Is it possible to use this (connect some load on boosted dc output) while it's charging? It sounds obvious, but not for me. =)</p><p>Thanks</p>
can this device be altered so that it charges from a 5v solar panel, and produces a constant output of 5v with a power of 1w, would need to discharge over a period of 24 hours
i just heard that the faster you recharge a battery, the faster it will die. <br>i was interested in super capacitor batteries to charge lithium batteries fastier until i heard that, any inputs on that? <br>
Interesting project - the only feedback I have is you need some sort of bleed across the caps to even out voltage. Series wired caps, even super caps, will charge &amp; discharge unevenly leading to uneven voltages across the caps at full charge. Unless you are very lucky, the difference will continue until the voltage across one exceeds its rated value. Then it will break down causing the other to fail.