Step 1: Go Get Stuff
(x1) PCB (Radioshack part #276-168)
(x1) Hacked Radioshack Illuminated Switch
(x1) 5K potentiometer
(x1) 10K potentiometer
(x1) 100K potentiometer
(x2) 100K resistor
(x1) 10K resistor
(x2) 0.01 uF capacitor
(x2) 0.047 uF capacitor
(x2) 0.1 uF capacitor
(x2) 1 uF capacitor
(x2) 4.7 uF capacitor
(x2) 10 uF capacitor
(x1) DPDT relay
(x4) 2P6P rotary switch
(x4) Gray knobs
(x3) White knobs
(x1) Hammond size-DD enclosure
(x1) Metal spray primer
(x1) Pink Spraypaint
(x1) Brushes, Testor enamel paint and thinner
(x2) Fine point paint pens
(x1) 18" x 12" cork
(x1) 18" x 12" rubber
(x1) Soldering setup
(x1) Drill press and clamps
(x1) Painter's tape
(x1) Multicolored wire
(x1) misc tools and cleaning supplies
Step 2: Prepare the Top for Drilling
If you happen to have access to a laser cutter, download the file named MultiFuzz. Cover your enclosure in painter's tape. Etch the design upon the enclosure such that it is perfectly centered.
Step 3: Drill the Top
Drill the four holes for the rotary switches with a 3/8" drill bit.
Drill the 3 holes for the potentiometers with a 9/32" drill bit. Also use the 9/32" bit to drill a pilot hole for the stomp switch.
Finally, drill out the stomp switch hole to the proper diameter with a 1/2" bit.
Step 4: Drill the Sides
If you have a laser cutter, then download MultiFuzzSide. Etch these files onto painters tape and then vector cut around the edges. Peel up the template and stick them to the enclosure such that they are centered on each side appropriately.
Drill the audio jack holes with a 3/8" drill bit. Drill the hole for the power switch with a 1/4" drill bit.
Step 5: Rubber Bracket
The following settings with my Epilog 75W laser cutter:
If you don't have a laser cutter, you can download MultiFuzzRubberPrint and try to use it as a template to cut out the rubber. However, I highly recommend that you find a manufacturing service that will cut out the file for you.
Step 6: Prepare the Case
Finally, wipe it down with a cloth covered in acetone to remove all of the unwanted coating from the enclosure.
Step 7: Prime the Case
Step 8: Spray Paint
Step 9: Start Detailing
Step 10: Enamel Painting
Considering this is the Fuzz of 1,000 Faces, I thought it might be appropriate to cover it in faces.
Step 11: Prep the Circuit Board
Step 12: Build the Circuit
Basically, at this point, build the circuit minus the rotary switches and the potentiometers. You can wire those in later and it will save you confusion and headaches.
The one thing that I forgot to draw into schematic was that I used a DPDT relay and a SPST lighted switch as opposed to the standard DPDT true bypass stomp switch that is normally used in guitar pedals.
Step 13: Wire the Switches
The switches have 2 pairs of six outer terminals and those six terminals connect to one of the two center terminals. Basically, when you turn the shaft, one of the six outer terminals make electrical contact to one of the center terminals.
That said, on two of the switches, connect 6 wires to a one of the sets of outer switches and one wire to the corresponding center switch. Install these into the two outer positions of the case as pictured (don't forget to install the rubber bracket between the switch and the case).
Then, for the two center switches, connect wires to all of the terminals. It helps if you color code it so you can tell the grouping of wires apart.
Step 14: Wire It All Together
Also connect wires to the jack and stomp switch and install those as well.
Finally, connect everything to the circuit board as appropriate (as per the schematic below).
Step 15: Cork Insulation
If you don't have a laser cutter, download fuzzcorkprint and print it out and use it as a template to cut the cork.
Place and/or glue the cork in the center of the lid. This will prevent the circuit board from shorting out on the metal casing.
Step 16: Finishing Touches
Put some gaffers or masking tape on a pair of pliers and user that to tighten the nuts for the switches, potentiometers and audio jacks. This will prevent the case from getting scratched.
Securely fasten the knobs onto the shafts for the potentiometers and rotary switches. Label the rotary switches as appropriate with a paint pen.
Finally, I recommend placing adhesive rubber pads on the bottom to keep the bottom of the case from getting scuffed up.
Plug in and enjoy.