This is the Pashley Gov'nor . . . it is simply beautiful . . . sit and stare at it for a while, it will make you feel nice . . .
http://www.pashley.co.uk/products/guvnor.html
It is based on the model made by Pashley in the 1930s but is equipped with modern components, (either single speed or internal hub 3 speed).
I want one, but at £800 I am afraid that it is not ever going to happen, even if I had the money.
I am attempted to make a passable copy for under £50, using scavenged, swapped and Ebay parts. . . I failed but it is still a bargain bike eventually costing £111.07.
This guide is straightforward step by step but for a more comprehensive explanation of the thought process please go to this version which is a day by day diary of the project' ups and downs.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Assembling-a-path-racer-with-a-1930s-budget/
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Signing UpStep 1: The frame.
After putting the word, out a guy has given me a 23 " Raleigh flyer frame from his loft.
Its not a good or rare frame but that means I can modify it without guilt.
This frame originally had 27" wheels.
I have some old 700 C's wheels , which are slightly smaller diameter and, with the current tyres, wider.
I sanded the frame and found lots of rust under the original paint.
I like matt black and I paint every bike I own with the following method.
Front door paint dabbed on with a washing-up sponge; It doesn't look so good in the photographs but it is a very matt finish with a slight texture and it is durable.
Its not a good or rare frame but that means I can modify it without guilt.
This frame originally had 27" wheels.
I have some old 700 C's wheels , which are slightly smaller diameter and, with the current tyres, wider.
I sanded the frame and found lots of rust under the original paint.
I like matt black and I paint every bike I own with the following method.
Front door paint dabbed on with a washing-up sponge; It doesn't look so good in the photographs but it is a very matt finish with a slight texture and it is durable.
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I actually really like the texture you get from dabbing the paint on, it looks like it has a vintage patina, but also really modern. Great Job!
I know, I couldn't think of anything else but those hubs when then were on Ebay . . . and of course, making the badge was the best part.
Kind Regards
FOH
Need to go and read your project journal instructable for this bike now :)
That drum brak that you use, they work fine? because i use to have ones but i never be able to make them work properly.
bye
Thanks for the comment.
The drum brakes that I used were the X-RD3 and the X-FD.
They do not stop as sharply as a well set up V-brake but they are still pretty effective; so to answer you, yes they work fine.
I did read somewhere that they can be made more effective by filing them into a shape that makes a better contact with the drum, but you would have to google it to get the proper information
Also ,I know that if the pads have come into contact with grease or oil, ( by over liberal spray oiling of the bike for example) they become unfit.
Also, I could be wrong but I have a feeling that in certain circumstances the pads can become glazed; in which case, they need to be lightly sanded.
If you have the same model as mine, I can assure you that they are easy to take apart.
There is also a PDF manual on the Sturmey Archer site.
Good Luck.
FOH
The drum brakes that i use to have were chinese. The brake but not as well as a v-brake or a cantilever.
your bike is awesome, i'd like to build mostly every bike that i like, hahahha. But now i'm building bike parts for bmx freestyle and unicycles.
When i was in the school (technical school) with a couple of frined we build two Penny Farthings, one with a 26" front rim, and other with a 56" custom rim and custom spokes, all hand-made.
Good luck.