You can buy a replica of the Good Samaritan from the Hellboy movies but there's no way to import anything even remotely gun shaped into Australia. This is my attempt to build a prop that looks as real as possible. NOTE: This is a REPLICA AND WON'T OPERATE AS A GUN - even tho it opens, the trigger and hammer move and the cylinder spins!!

Step 1: Requirements

First task was to find as many pix from as many different angles as possible and draw a set of top/side/front and rear views in 1:1 scale.

Tools needed...
sharp hobby knife & blades
Pallette knife
sandpaper, dremel/drill various tools,
small pieces of sheet metal
wood - i had some stuff that was 42mm wide and about that was perfect.
L shaped brackets and various screws, washers and bolts
sheet foam - the stuff that aircraft modellers - balsa wood or stiff cardboard at a pinch
various glues - foam glue, superglue, epoxy
brass or aluminium tubes of varying sizes - 2.5cm aluminium tube x 70cm or so
water putty and black acrylic paint or ink
vaseline or oil to use as a release agent
air drying hobby clay / fimo
lead fishing weights or scrap small pieces of metal.

Step 2: The Cylinder

mark out a circle in foam panel as the base of the cylinder. It's possible to use stiff cardboard or a hacked up soda bottle. The alumium tube is cut into 4 sections just higher than the cylinder tube. The remaining section is used to cast the barrel. Glue the 4 tubes (covered with oil/vaseline) and a centre tube just wide enough for a long bolt to pass through. Make sure these are level and correctly spaced or the cylinder wont spin properly. Make sure that a narrow band is is glued to the top of each tube - this acts as a lip that stops the shells falling down the barrel!
Mix water putty and water to a thick paste and add enough black paint or ink to colour the water putty to a dark grey. Any air holes can be filled with extra putty when the tubes are removed from the partly dried cast after an hour - any features not cast can be carved into the cylinder whilst still semi dry. A small spacer cut from tube makes sure the nut that holds the cylinder in place doesn't stop it spinning.... locktite would do the same.
A - B

Drill a hole and mount the cylinder on a piece of wood that making sure the when the cylinder spins there's enough clearance to insert the long piece of alumium tube into the topmost chamber. The barrel is cast around this so anchor the cylinder with plasticine to prevent it moving.
The upright wooden post sits on another piece of wood of the same width. I made the hinged mechanism out of narrower aluminum tubes which i attached and reinforced out of water putty.... cut the shapes out of wood or use metal putty to build this part of the gun as there's a lot of stress here.
I added some extra alumium to make sure the armature could support the additional weight of the considerably large barrel.
- Barrel
The hexagonal barrel is made by taping 6 narrow strips together around the aluminium barrel tube. A hexagonal shape of foam is fitted over each of the tube and grey coloured water putty pressed into the resultant space.
The rail on which the sights (metal putty again) is cast in water putty seperately and then glued in place onto the barrel
A smaller block of the same width is cast in the same manner. Panels of aircraft foam are rigid enough to support the putty while it dries without distorting. The putty can be carved or grated easily when damp but a dremel and sandpaper is needed when it's dry. A narrow piece of three ply wood seperates a plastic tube that has been sealed with metal putty and filled with several lead weights.

Step 3: Barrel

You can see where the lower section of the gun has been joined to the barrel.
A strip of metal with a piece of tube is glued in place and rests on a wooden upright so that the cylinder is enclosed in a wooden frame that allows the cylinder to spin unimpeded and open easily. Build a simple foam "shell" around this part of the gun and fill with water putty...shaping or adding to the partly dry casting.
A cut down cola lid is glued to the base of the plastic tube and an L shaped bracket screwed underneath the gun - this is reinforced with epoxy glue. The stock of the gun is affixed to this so solid is the word... a piece wood would serve the same purpose.
The trigger mechanism, like the hammer is formed by cutting down a spring clip and molding metal clay and trimming it with the hobby blade. The other side of the spring clip is glued/screwed to the wood base.
Items like the spring cylinder release and the trigger guard are made by cutting a strip of metal and bending to shape. Metal clay is rolled flat between two strips of balsa and cut to width with a ruler and hobby knife and then superglued on the metal strips.

Step 4:

The underside and rear of the gun are formed by protecting the attached trigger/hammer with plasticine and foam. The rule of thumb is that larger solid pieces (barrel, cylinder) can be formed in water putty - this stuff doesn't work well for thinner more delicate pieces tho. The semi circular pieces behind the barrel were made by sandwiching water putty between foam cut to size, smoothed with a pallette knife and epoxy glued into place. The release arrangement on the side is made with the metal strip/rolled metal clay method. i sank a small spring from a ballpoint pen just below the pivot point so that the mechanism works... but used a bolt that runs through the tube/nut i'd earlier attached with metal clay to be sure the thing locks.

Step 7:

A few screws countersunk into the appropriate areas of the gun add to the authenticity.
The butt is formed by molding air drying clay. A spray with black satin paint and sanded back/silver paint highlights in the worn areas. Covered with a clear spray.
Bullets formed with the same aluminium tube used to cast the chambers… ‘silver’ was carved out of semi dry water putty that had been extruded thru that same tube and carved sanded to shape. Cast in a gelatin mold several times (in bondo) and fitted to the base of the bullet. Inserted a small lead sinker to each shell – lead sinkers added thru out the construction of the gun too.

Step 10:

When I make another one i will mock it up in clay/aluminium etc and cast it, probably in resin. Not thrilled with the finish on some parts and resin would mean the whole thing would be strong++ with finer tolerances. credit to the Water Putty, its good stuff but I would add iron to resin and cast that or use a metal powder based paint and spray that on to cast resin..

Step 11:

PDF file with some clarification of steps involved and some basic blueprints. All scales are in inches on the plans 1:1
my parents don't like me making prop guns because they think someone will see me and call the cops cause Im black. Any other black prop gun makers have this problem?
Don't not do something because of the color of your skin. If you enjoy it, it's not illegal, you should do it.
yeah......im white and if i lived in a black neghborhood(i dont have anything against blacks)and the cops was black then they probably wouldnt shoot me plus your a kid so the cops would probably udurstand
I know, but the cops are more likely to shoot first, ask questions later. One time a guy reached into his pocket for his ID after the cops pulled their guns on him and asked for it. He was shot 19 times. IN A LOW CRIME NEIGHBORHOOD.
very good genius
Hey, this would go great in my group if you wanna add to it!<br> <br> Here's the link : <a href="https://www.instructables.com/group/moviemagic/">https://www.instructables.com/group/moviemagic/</a>
sooooooo cool
This is awesome!
dude, this thing is a piece of art, you should also make the guns from the anime hellsing,
if this is to hard for you try this https://www.instructables.com/id/hell-boy-the-good-samaritan-gun/
Nice job I have actually used this for referense pics for my own, I've seen a few home made samaritans, but this is one of the best.
Some interest guns you can see <a href="http://gunsinarms.com">here</a>:)
diferent language mate
i dont see guns here are you sure there are many guns here?<br><br>wahahahahahahahahahah i dont see any guns<br><br>your such a loser<br><br>your a liar<br>
That's awesome!
tsada gyud kaau ang instructables.com<br>
I would just LOVE to use that in an airsoft war! lol!<br><br>Madbull shells... Lol!
what is the method that you used to form the cylinder and other custom parts called?&nbsp;
Hmm, I&nbsp;don't know that there is a name for it. I've made a few replicas since this (see link below) and i'd honestly suggest using wood instead of the techniques i've listed here. I use a drill press, scroll saw (or jigsaw), dremel and mouse sander for 90% of the models i'm making nowadays and unlike some other things wood (mdf) doesn't warp, is strong and you can take casts of it if you want to copy sections in resin or some other material. <br /> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; In the link you can see i've remade the Samaritan with much more detail - using mainly wood.<br />
exuse me but where is the link?<br>
http://www.flickr.com/photos/42071592@N07/<br><br>not an instructable - some tips and pics<br>
great job! too
thank you very much!
cool, I'm pretty sure we actually have all of those tools in our garage. I'm making a big steam-punk revolver and I'm gonna make an instructable for it once i finish.
&nbsp;Have been working on some different techniques that ppl could use in constructing props like this. My next build will be documented and posted here for inspiration to others. My finished projects are at <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42071592@N07/" rel="nofollow">BurningPanda's Photostream</a>.&nbsp;
thus is uber cool<br />
Thanks, I've refined a lot of techniques since i made this and am currently using sheets of rolled, colored Apoxie Sculpt over armatures of wood, clay etc. (tutorial to follow). Here's a link on stuff i've made thus far, thankfully it gets easier all the time and there's no way i'd use some of the techniques i posted for this prop nowadays :-) &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;<br /> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42071592@N07/" rel="nofollow">www.flickr.com/photos/42071592@N07/</a><br />
when is your 'refined' tutorial coming out? c=Cause I really looking forward to building this, thanks.
this is so awesome.<br /> *drools*<br />
Actually you can import thing things that "even remotely resemble guns" into Australia. I have imported two resin sci-fi Battlestar Galactica prop pistols. The first series one was not a problem as it doesn't really look like an actual pistol that can be bought but the second is based on a FN-57 pistol with a "bit" added under the barrel. This one required a letter of authorisation from the police in my state (Qld) to allow customs to release it to me. I think I might be pushing my luck though trying to get a Cx4 Storm rifle or a backpack mini-nuke prop/model into the country. LOL
I've read of customs seizing imports so it's not something i've tried. The original for this prop is metal - so i didn't even consider it. The FN-57 certainly looks gun like so i'm surprised you got it in. It would make life a lot easier if could get 1:1 replicas that i could cast and modify but when i want that Cx4 Storm rifle prop it looks like i'm going to have to make it. :-)
I was thinking exactly the same things about the cool looking Cx4 Storm or FN-P90. No chance of ever getting any kind of replica or airsoft version of them here so if I want one it's going to have to be a complete scratch build. I did think of trying to do it in sections using CAD and a 3D milling machine or stereolithography of some kind. Maybe get someone to do a rapid prototype of it and then make a mould from the prototype.
I'm (slowly) working on a couple of Tommy Guns and an fN2000. At the moment a lot of time is spent making exhaustive drawings... i have found it easier to make scale drawings and work from them. I want clips etc to be removable and interchangeable. The method atm is to use a scroll saw or similar to cut sections (stock, body etc) from laminated pieces of ply - adding lead weight to the interior of the piece. The article is then 'fleshed out' using two part epoxy putty and layers of scrunched foil adhered with a glue gun (modellers use a similar technique over an armature). I'm using this method to smooth the curves on the stock. i then am covering the wood with a thin layer of polymer clay (sculpey, fimo) which comes in metal colours too. Rolled through a pasta machine you get a piece of sheet several millimeters thick which can be applied over the top. The clay can be baked and rebaked in a low temp oven and can be stamped or embossed with patterns - perhaps even lettering (from a cut up credit card). Sections can be set hard with a heat gun first so handling won't damage the finish. Because it comes in so many colours (including translucent) i can simulate wood, stone, metal etc _without_ having to paint!! I've always found finishing is the problem... theoretically this way i could have a one part in jade... another could be gold inlaid wood... the possibilities are endless when you look at what craft people can do with polymer clay. Can be sanded for a matte finish or buffed to a high lustre. Unlike the Samaritan gun these will be heavier and more durable with a consistent finish. I'm not doing an instructable because i'm trying different methods to narrow down the most efficient and effective ways to make something not made out of metal and wood LOOK like it is - get it right before i post some half a**ed how to :-) I'll post some progress pix if there's any interest.
This is how the BSG prop looks when painted well.
The series 2 BSG pistol based on the FN-57 is like this one except that my resin is black not white and it was made in a rotary mold.<br/><br/><a href="https://www.instructables.com/id/BSG_Battle_Star_Galactica_Resin_Prop/">https://www.instructables.com/id/BSG_Battle_Star_Galactica_Resin_Prop/</a><br/><br/>It basically looks like a FN-57 hence customs' interest in it.<br/>
The police were pretty good once I explained in my submission what the prop actually was and what it was made of. The law regarding firearms basically says that anything that closely resembles a particular firearm Game conmsole is treated as if it were that firearm in most cases. Game console "guns" oddly enough can be quite freely purchased even though several of the quite reasonably resemble real pistols.
ohh damn.....dude it only has 4 masive bullets......damn.....what cal is this? but still 5/5 awsum !
If I remember right, it's 20 mm. I had thought about doing this, but was intimidated by the work involved in it. This turned out really cool!
22mm to be exact
I could only find aluminium tube in 25mm - so thats what i used. Seems to fit with the originals dimensions. Luckily i found a pic with the original prop next to a ruler, up til then i'd been guessing...
u no 25mm is 2.5cm n thats equals 1 inch?
i don't think that it is a real gun...
*Refer to my previous comment* (look up)
dude i mean if there was a gun that i could buy that was a real version of that i would get it....
not knowing the size of the hand in the picture, i can only estimate that they're around the same diameter as a 14 or 12 guage shotgun shells. honestly, though, what would you want it for? somebody order a hit on an elephant? do a lotta hiking in bear country? opening one of those annoying blisterpacks that electronics come in?
I'm 6'4" so i got big hands. The cylinder is 3 1/2" long - so the shells are 1" diameter and 3 1/2" length. I would imagine the recoil on something like that if it were real would crush just about every bone in your arm and seriously dislocate your shoulder. I read somewhere the original prop is 10kg (22lb)!! Mine weighs 2.5kg - if i cast in resin i'd add iron powder and make the thing really hefty :-)
...I can relate to the blister packs....<br/>But I have a band saw.<br/>=)<br/>
i read somewhere about a british study that showed that they caused something like a hundred emergency room visits in a year... something like that. such a pain...

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