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The hilsch vortex tube, cools and heats air at the SAME time with no moving parts, and NO electricity. cool huh? it's quite simple, and only a matter of getting the dimensions right! Not to mention the ability to produce EXTREME temperatures! all that's needed is compressed air!

So, let's demonstrate two simple scientific principles through this tube. That's right, two principles in one!

let's start with temperature. Temperature is an AVERAGE of how fast the particles are bumping into each other. Because it's an average, it means that air is composed of fast AND slow particles. It's hot and cold at the same time! (see right of third picture) How will this be proved? Well, I think that if we just separated the hot and cold, that'd do just fine for proving!

How's it going to work? By utilizing inertia! Which is defined as: "the property of an object to remain at constant velocity unless acted upon by an outside force." Basically, once you get a boulder rolling, it's not going to want to stop. And trust me, it'll resist you changing it's velocity!
There are two things that make up inertia- mass, and velocity. More of either means more inertia.

Now imagine, there's a wall that curves 90 degrees. A boulder and ping pong ball are rolling towards it. (see fourth picture for the explanation) now, as you saw, the pingpong ball was just pushed away with ease. Now, say the pingpong ball was the same size as the boulder (but still very much lighter) and on the right instead of the left. The boulder would still force its way to the wall. If you had a steady stream of boulders and giant pingpong balls, and this was a circle instead of just a curve, it wouldn't be long before there were only boulders rolling along the wall, and all the pingpong balls were all pushed to the inside.

Now, one step further, now because inertia = mass x velocity, say you had lots of molecules of the same weight going around that circle. But some were moving really fast, and others slow, because the faster ones are moving much faster (and have more inertia), they'll push the slower ones out of the way. (yes, just like the boulder and pingpong ball) and before you know it, there's the hot (fast) molecules around the edge, and slow (cold) in the center! (see left side of third picture) and that's exactly what the inside of the vortex tube looks like!

to put it very simply all the vortex tube does is get those molecules moving in one direction (rather then the chaotic right of the third picture) so that the separation will begin!

There ya go, you've learned two scientific principles, and the basic idea of how this machine works. If you want to know the history and a step by step process, go to step one! If not, and just want to build, just move to the step after that.

 
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Step 1: History and step by step explination

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the history

Georges J. Ranque, a French physicist noticed temperature differences in vortex separators. He found that the center would get cool, and the outside quite warm. After some due thought, he wrote some theories up and moved on. These ideas, as well as maxwell's thoughts on the subject came to Rudolf Hilsch and he began actually researching and building a refrigerant system to try and beat the standard system for the German military. After building a few prototypes, and getting a very good hold on the dimensions, he left the idea alone, as, the conventional system was more efficient, and less noisy.

Ok, enough history, now how the tube actually works in a step by step process. This is for those science nerds who really want to know how the air separates in this cool machine. Be warned, this is complicated, and I tried to explain it as well as I could. If you've got a good enough idea from the scientific principles above, you may just want to go to the next step.


-First you have the vortex chamber, this is simply where the air starts to spin. the better this is designed, the better your tube works. for the best tube, the faster you can get the air to spin the higher the temperature change.

-Second the air moves down the long hot tube and the hot air separates outward, and the cold air is pushed to the center of the vortex. (effects of inertia)

-Third, the air makes it to the end of the pipe, and, because the ball valve is opened slightly, with a small opening near the WALL of the hot pipe, it siphons off hot air, but, because the pressure is too great to go out that single opening, some of the air must rebound and travel through the center of the vortex, and exit back through the hole in the middle of the vortex chamber.

Why wouldn't it just go through there in the first place? simply because in the vortex chamber, the air is moving so fast, it's being smashed on the walls of the pipe and can't "pull" itself to go through it. If the ball valve is closed, enough pressure builds, and the air just exits there, as, there's nowhere else to go. Because the ball valve is slightly opened near the wall where the air is being smashed, it tries to exit there first. If it can't make it out there, it is forced to go back through the center of the vortex and exit at out the cold tube.

-fourth as the air goes back through the center of the vortex, the faster molecules push back out towards the edge of the tube, and the colder are forced to the inside. Because there is too much air to exit out the hot tube, the air is forced to escape out the cold tube, and your separation is complete. hot air out one end, cold out the other.

Now we're done with theory, thank goodness! Back to the hands on build it part!
Next step: the materials!



EDIT: due to many people asking what "practical" use this might serve besides teaching a principal, once tuned to achieve temperatures below freezing, you can use the tube to freeze all sorts of stuff! Scientists use it for tissue sample freezing, what can you use it for? Just think carefully. Because you're producing a concentrated blast of cold air, you can freeze things REALLY quickly! Honesly, if you've got a large air compressor that's just sitting there, this is worth a build. In my experience, uses come after it's built, not before.
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Otto Belden says: Nov 12, 2011. 12:17 PM
I have built several vortex tubes of different materials and sizes. There are a fun and interesting thing to build. The most successful one I made is here and is a bit easier to build:
http://ottobelden.blogspot.com/2010/12/another-home-made-ranque-hilsch-vortex.html
I have instructions of how I built it along with a video and some thermal images I took with a FLIR camera showing the temperature gradients. The details of the other tubes I built are also there on my blog:
http://ottobelden.blogspot.com/p/various-projects.html
Scroll down to the Vortex Tube links. I'm more than happy to help folks build these tubes. Leave a comment on my blog or email me!
- Otto Belden
fidgety2 says: Sep 12, 2011. 9:26 AM
i have a quick question

on step 6 do you use the drill bit to "route" the holes for your air line and could you just clamp the 2 pieces of acrylic together and drill into the seam where they meet thus "routing" the air line?

thanks
fidgety2
xizero says: May 30, 2011. 11:41 PM
in my humble opinion the cooling is caused by the increase in velocity of the molecules without heating them - they will need to absorb heat to retain the velocity- and that will cool the inner slower molecules that don't need to because they are not moving as fast -- in essence i am proposing another law of physics one that if a molecule is accelerated that it absorbs heat to stay at its new velocity -- if such a law exists please excuse my ignorance as i am no physicist ... kind regards Mark
Randomm Science says: Jan 5, 2011. 3:13 AM
Can this be done with copper pipe to avoid any possible flammability that might be encountered with pvc?
atzi says: Dec 5, 2010. 11:54 AM
Interesting article in Vortex and on making one.
You explanation of a Vortex only separates the hot molecules from the cold ones I cannot disprove, but I have read of other theories like this one......

"While one airstream moves up the tube and the other down it, both rotate in the same direction at the same angular velocity. That is, a particle in the inner stream completes one rotation in the same amount of time as a particle in the outer stream. However, because of the principle of conservation of angular momentum, the rotational speed of the smaller vortex might be expected to increase. (The conservation principle is demonstrated by spinning skaters who can slow or speed up their spin by extending or drawing in their arms.) But in the vortex tube, the speed of the inner vortex remains the same. Angular momentum has been lost from the inner vortex. The energy that is lost shows up as heat in the outer vortex. Thus the outer vortex becomes warm, and the inner vortex is cooled."

I bought a Vortex Tube in the 1980's and used it to cool carburetor choke bimetal coils to test them and the choke linkage. Also was handy to cool temperature sensors to test their accuracy instead of waiting overnight or removal and install in freezer etc. Here is a video I did on my old Blue-Point Vortex. http://www.machine-history.com/Vortex%20Tube
ScienceWiz says: Apr 24, 2010. 11:42 PM
I am really determined to build one of these (I've wanted one since I saw it in a McMaster and Carr mag. but didn't feel like forking over 200 bucks for one) but I have a question about this step.

What exactly am I supposed to be dremeling? After I drill the holes and use the paddle-bit, what piece am I supposed to dremel and what am I trying to remove/smooth/etc.

Please reply if you get a chance, I would be very thankful!

And Great instructable btw, so far this is the only informational tutorial I've seen for making a vortex tube!
apchar in reply to ScienceWizJul 28, 2010. 4:48 PM
I think what he means is that you don't use the paddle bit to dig down and make the indentation for the washer. You use the dremel for that. Most paddle bits have 3 points, one at the center and two on each end.
| __ __ |
|/    \/    \|
Normally, when you drill into wood with them, the center point digs in first, then the two outer points dig in (and the circle appears), then the flat part digs in & starts tearing out wood. Here, the purpose of the paddle bit is just to dig the perimeter of the circle. You're only using those two outer points of the bit. At least I hope that's what he means, since I'm starting the project tonight.
Morganbarker in reply to apcharSep 27, 2010. 7:54 PM
That's the way I understand it as well. Although I do have a cheap and cheezy backup index of spade bits that don't have the scribe edges. They're not good for much though.
Morganbarker says: Sep 27, 2010. 7:49 PM
I have had on several occasions, the need for a 'stepped' bore similar to the above picture. One of the requirements was that the two bore sizes be concentric.

I find it easiest to start first with the large shallow bore so I still have material in the hole with the centering pilot from the big bit to target the smaller bit with.
apchar says: Jul 28, 2010. 4:57 PM
Do you drill into the wall of the PVC pipe? Doesn't the washer block the flow of air? It looks like it's right in front ot the air tubes. Are both halves of the MDF (er. acrylic) the same?
qokhan says: May 25, 2010. 6:44 AM
Some about this site.www.erkim.com.tr/Vorteks_Tupleri.html... I made one vortex tube.İts  good and cheapest working on cnc lathe machine .
ScienceWiz says: Apr 24, 2010. 11:57 PM
I have a question about the Archamedes Design

In the picture, there is a weirdly shaped white space in the center of the design, is this supposed to be cut out? Left intact? or is the white space just unnecissary?

From the look of it, the Archamedes design looks like the Opposing jets but with only 1 tube (that is double the size). Other then the number of tubes leading into it, it looks pretty much the same. If you've had a chance to compare the 2, I would be really appreciative if you could share your findings, and also if you could explain the white space in the Archamedes design..

Thankyou!
And great instructable! Very informative and very well put together
Dutch_Razor says: Apr 17, 2010. 9:35 AM
 The vortex tube is such a nice concept, in the lab we have an Exair Vortex tube (exair.com) which produces about 5 liter/s air at -30 degrees C.

It's so noisy that without mufflers, I suspect it goes above 120 decibels!
hiatus138 says: Feb 27, 2009. 6:11 PM
"popular science monthly" magazine, may 1947, p. 144 had the article "homemade maxwell's demon blows hot and cold" in which plans are given out to make a Hilsch vortex tube. Required tools are just a drill press.

The plan specifies an input of 75 to 100 PSI
Output is claimed as "hot end too hot to touch, and cold end gathered frost."
A photo is shown with 2 thermometers reading 68 and 110 degrees respectively. the nature of the tube is that it is adjusted to maximize either heat or cold, you can't have both at the same time.

the entire tube is 12 inches long and made from 9/32" brass tubing.

Unfortunately, this issue is missing from Google book search beta, although all the other issues are there.
http://books.google.com/books?atm_aiy=1940&ie=ISO-8859-1&id=9CkDAAAAMBAJ&q=hilsch#search_anchor

The article was reprinted in "mammoth home workshop manual" 1950, by popular science publishing. A great book, chock full of the sort of home handycrafts common in the "mens magazines" of the day. those WWII era magazines like pop. sci, pop. mechanics, mechanix illus. kinda seem to me like Make magazine's eccentric uncle.
sula21 in reply to hiatus138Mar 16, 2010. 4:21 PM
www.popsci.com/archive-viewer

Pop sci just released their entire archive online (searchable by keyword).  Found that appropriately named article.
KimberlyP in reply to hiatus138Feb 9, 2010. 12:08 AM

It depends on the settings. For maximum heating and or cooling temperature you can adjust the flow proportions. But for maximum heating and cooling btu's, (different than temperature) adjust for 50/50 flow, and indeed you will have heating and cooling at the same time.

The higher your input temperature the lower your cold temperature and the higher your hot temperature.

 

jp_bosing says: Feb 12, 2010. 10:09 PM
From my understanding, the air that enters the Vortex Tube passes through some kind of generating device and spins at extremely high rpm's towards one end of the tube. Then an inner vortex of air spins towards the other end and exhausts as cold air. There is a real good flash animation at http://www.stream-tek.com/products/vortextubes/vortex-tube-works.php; gives a good visual on the inner workings of the Vortex Tube.

-- JP
ItsTheHobbs says: Aug 15, 2007. 4:19 PM
what does it do?
HamO in reply to ItsTheHobbsAug 15, 2007. 8:21 PM
introThe Hilsch vortex tube
The hilsch vortex tube, cools and heats air at the SAME time with no moving parts, and NO electricity. cool huh? it's quite simple, and only a matter of getting the dimensions right! Not to mention EXTREME temperatures!
ItsTheHobbs in reply to HamOJan 6, 2009. 4:50 PM
But... don't you need an air compressor? that has moving parts right?
ItsTheHobbs in reply to HamOAug 17, 2007. 6:43 AM
so its not productive its just............a..science project
thecheatscalc (author) in reply to ItsTheHobbsAug 17, 2007. 7:18 AM
Actually, it is productive, if you build it correctly, you can instantly freeze small samples. there are PLENTY of uses, just think what you could use cold air for!
ItsTheHobbs in reply to thecheatscalcAug 21, 2007. 2:13 PM
ooooo ican think of two........ no offense, but its not to exciting
thecheatscalc (author) in reply to ItsTheHobbsAug 22, 2007. 5:58 AM
well, can't expect everyone to think it's exciting... thanks for commenting though.
ballistic builder in reply to thecheatscalcAug 20, 2011. 10:05 PM
it works awesome as a coolling system on grinders
billmc says: Oct 31, 2008. 8:19 AM
First go down to your local stream and build a "trompe" so as to supply your compressed air. Then apply the heated and chilled air from your Hilsch vortex tube to your favorite Sterling engine.
Pazzerz says: Jul 25, 2008. 6:55 AM
Here's a question fer ya.... You said in step 11: attach it to the air line (nearly close the ball valve) and slowly open and close the valve until the hot side gets VERY hot. Are you referring to the ball valve as the one you need to open and close, or is it on the air inlet from the compressor?? The two references to a valve has me confused a bit.
lasermaster3531 in reply to PazzerzOct 13, 2008. 2:07 PM
I think he means the one on the end of the pipe.
Rogue_ork says: Oct 8, 2008. 12:12 AM
would you need a "compressor", after all, you have no need to jam the air in permanently, could you just use a impeller or centrifugal fan? . After all, centrifugal fans can pump out a lot larger volume of air and are quieter too, they may not have the pressure capabilities of a compressor, but it may not need to.
servant74 says: Oct 6, 2008. 2:02 PM
I like this instructable. You might mention what volume and pressure you need to get 'acceptable' results. Even using your MDF, it would be OK for a while if you first take some wood glue, thin it about 50-50 with water, then use it to 'paint' the surface. That will fill in lots of the pores, make it smoother, and make it last longer in the presence of water. Do this even if you want to paint it. The glue makes a reasonable 'primer' for the MDF.
Kotazo says: Aug 16, 2007. 4:01 PM
I may be missing the stated use of this thing, but does it have any practical applications, or, is this a demonstration project for teaching science?
servant74 in reply to KotazoOct 6, 2008. 1:55 PM
I have seen commercial ones used for cooling instrumentation in an industrial area where they don't want to put more mechanical equipment. Like inside otherwise explosive areas in buildings or areas in labs where the kind of work done is prone to fires or explosives. The good thing is big industrial plants often have large central air compressors. I remember the plant my dad worked in while I was growing up had 4 800HP compressors powering the 400PSI air in the plant near FtWorth. (I could be wrong about the number and size, it was man years ago, but it was huge).
Fake_Name in reply to KotazoSep 9, 2008. 3:12 AM
They are occasionally used in machining as an alternate to coolant. There's a lot less mess, and some metals machine better without a liquid coolant present. YMMV
_soapy_ in reply to KotazoSep 26, 2007. 1:59 PM
Just think what you would use a hot air gun for, or a can of freeze spray. It's not exactly taxing to come up with uses!
scorpio1066 says: Sep 27, 2007. 9:36 PM
in theory could this be used to lower the air coming into a cold air intake on a car? - how would one hook up the compresssed air if this doesnt use any electicity? would it need a compressed air feed at all in this scenario? - or would the cold in coming in be enough to work this? many thanks - there are cryo systems being sold that use co2 for the air feed. im keen to use this system though.
thecheatscalc (author) in reply to scorpio1066Sep 28, 2007. 11:27 AM
In theory, it could be used to lower the temperature, BUT, unless your car has a high pressure line, I doubt you'd experience anything. The TUBE itself doesn't use any electricity, and you could just as easily (or more easily, but not so cheaply) use a bottle of compressed air instead of a compressor, but, one keeps going and lets you fiddle. The other's pressure drops (probably rapidly unless it's pretty large) and then you've got to recharge it.
conrad2468 in reply to thecheatscalcSep 30, 2008. 3:03 PM
hummers have a built in air compressor......
fukenfooser says: Jul 27, 2008. 1:33 AM
Thank you, Nice project I'd seen them months ago on the old site listed above. I've been saving and planning on building and putting up, an old air-pump, pancake style, DOA, and using the pump driven by Wind Turbine Blades, sending the air down to storage tanks. When I saw this, my plan got a new step and use of the extra air. I'll now be able to use this extra air for heating and cooling, I'll be using heater cores and copper tubes as the air targets. I've built some as "Dump Loads" for my R.E. toys/projects, but being only able to heat them isn't very much use in the summer time. Next summer I hope to have Air and cooling, !!! :) $0.02
Pazzerz says: Jul 25, 2008. 7:14 AM
Oh, and I'm going to make this with my lathe. One of which will be about 1/8 the original size. One other question.... Uh, the tangent input air lines, they feed into the pieces on the hot side of the washer, correct??
incorrigible packrat says: May 5, 2008. 7:18 PM
I'm visualizing a workshop beer chiller/ tea water boiler...
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