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Hoffman's Iron Law states that a woofer's efficiency is proportional to the volume of the enclosure it is mounted in and the cube of its low frequency...
The following is a list of the components I used for this system, but these exact parts may be difficult to obtain and can be replaced as described be...
Standard interior door sizes are 30", 32" and 36" wide and 80" tall. My house is old and most doorways are 29" wide by 80" tall. With these d...
After marking the centers of the woofer and midrange holes, I used a router with a circle cutting attachment to cut the holes. An adequate job can be...
This design relies on four brackets to hold the entire baffle against the door trim, so it must be relatively stiff. To do this, 2 x 4 studs r...
Apply self-adhesive weatherstrip along each side edge and the top edge, which will create an airtight seal between the baffle and the door trim...
These brackets are designed to pull the speaker baffle tight against the doorway trim. The blue end of the bracket shown below slides in betwe...
At this point it may be a good idea to test fit the baffle in a doorway. It will be easier to make any necessary tweaks before the drivers are...
Mount the drivers using the appropriate screws. I used 1.25" drywall screws for the midranges and black 1" pan heads for the woofers and tweet...
The crossover, which routes the proper frequencies to the proper drivers, for this project will be very simple. Crossover design is a very complex and...
Notes: This system is very heavy and will probably require two people to move it. I will probably mount handles on the front to make it easie...
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