Step 10: you're all wet

Parts to make the hot water tank:
-a large pot, 5 gallon bucket, or a water tank (do you want it open topped to keep it clean, or closed) dark in color to keep things from growing.
-copper pipe or tubing (a coil will get even better heat out put, but must always slope upward from the combustion chamber)
-JB weld water weld (special epoxy mix made to seal and even cure underwater, and safe for use in drinking/cooking repairs per the web site)
-drill bit the same size as the pipe.

-mark the bucket where you want the pipe to go in and out. ( a horizontal run through the bottom of the tank would do the most good for heat transfer)
-drill the holes
-push the pipe through and seal the holes with the JBweld 
-fill and check for leaks.
<p>interesting concept I do like the idea. I have a couple of duel mantel &quot;Coleman&quot; type lanterns vs the wick type you used. These babies put off tons of light and heat. We even cooked hot dogs over the hot air coming out the top. Granted not fast but it did work. There is also a &quot;tent heater&quot; someone makes.... or did, and right now I can not tell you who it is / was. but in certain places the drive in theaters would rent you one to keep your car warm in the winter months while you watched your movie. They had a large &quot;wick&quot; area of sorts it just glowed with not real open flame. and you def. had to have the window open. But I have one like it as well but your idea of a box to vent the fumes out is brilliant and would make things much safer, Thanks for the idea.</p><p>Hope you recover soon, it is no fun being out of work with and injury.</p><p>Demascus</p>
<p>Conceptual or not, I think this is a brilliant idea and welcome Instructables that are filled with detailed instructions for an idea that should work, even if not tested. I am considering constructing something based on this idea. If I do it, I will definitely post share images and tips. Thank you!</p>
Warning for kerosine lamps in general:<br><br>There are various grades of fuel oil sold as &quot;kerosine&quot;<br><br>Some of these May have flash points as low as 100F. If this is used in a wick type lamp it is likely to result in a runaway condition weth huge flames that can be very unsafe.<br><br>Proper lamp oil has a flash point around 140F, and is what the lamps are meant to burn. <br><br>If the container label leaves any doubt, search online for th MSDS for the product, and that will list the flash point.
<p>In addition to your comment, gumby, I can attest to the poor quality of some of 'made in China' kero lamps. Having two of them explode in normal outdoor use has put me off them forever, now. </p>
<p>What, No real pictures.</p><p>Might as well burn this ible.</p>
<p>I have my Mr. Heater that provides more heat than I could ever need from a propane source and a couple of D-Cell batteries for the internal fan. It has a tip-over and oxygen depletion sensor, so it's not going to cause any problems.</p>
<p>being put to sleep forever means dying.</p>
This virtual heater should keep me virtually warm in my virtual world. I could probably use the real lantern and tape measure. Do you have a picture of the finished product?
I came up with this as the answer to a problem I don't have. I camp at campgrounds with 110V, and have a tiny heater that is more than enough. I also don't camp in the winter. <br>Back when i built my tear I was planning on staying in it year round a few nights a week. That has never happened. <br>How to have heat off the grid comes up often on TnTTT, I made this i'ble as a possible answer. <br>I have all the parts sitting in my workshop, but boat building and teardrop modifying has taken up all my free time :( , right now I'm in wood splitting and stacking for the winter mode. I may get to building this and trying it out this winter, but make no promises <br>
Thanks for sharing! I've been trying to learn more about <a href="http://www.discountheating.net" rel="nofollow">wheeling heating</a>, and found this very insightful. Any more tips or suggestions would be great! Thanks again.
Look in the wood stove/fireplace supplies at the local hardware and try to find the fire barrier/fire stop spray in foam. There are several different ratings for this as well as the RTV silicone sealants. If you wet you fingers (spit on them!) you can use them to get a really nice smooth finish on the RTV.
Looks good on LCD. Now go out and build one. If it works I am sure it will be a huge hit. Can't wait to see the prototype.
the outer box wouldn't be that hot, at least I don't think it would be hot enough to melt plastic. <br>I labeled some of the pictures, hope that helps.<br>josh
Some labeling of the parts/sections, flow directions in the diagrams would be nice.<br>Also I wouldn't use the foil faced bubble wrap.<br>(Plastic, melty, burn, poisonous gas, bad, very bad.)<br>Hit up the plumping section of you hardware store for water heater exhaust insulation. It's made to handle the heat and is rather fire proof/resistant. Or even the regular household insulation section, looking specifically for fire rated.

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Bio: airplane nut since forever, rower since high school, airplane mechanic since '94, father of four
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