Instructables

The Hydroponic, Automated, Networking, Climate Controlled Greenhouse Project: Construction

Featured
Picture of The Hydroponic, Automated, Networking, Climate Controlled Greenhouse Project: Construction
DSCN1073.JPG
DSCN1060.JPG
This Instructable will cover the construction of my Hydroponic, Automated, Networking, Climate Controlled Greenhouse Project. The construction phase of the project covers the concrete footings, the framing and the glazing of the greenhouse.

Other Instructables that cover elements of the "Hydroponic, Automated, Networking, Climate Controlled Greenhouse Project" are listed below with many more to come:

Part 1: The Construction of the Greenhouse
Part 2: The 72 Plant Vertical Garden


The greenhouse when completed should be equipped with a large, centralized hydroponics system capable of supporting up to 40 large plants (tomatoes, bell peppers, banana peppers, etc.) and up to 72 small plants (lettuce, spinach, strawberries, etc.) for a total of up to 112 plants. The greenhouse will be equiped with an arduino based climate control system capeable of monitoring the indoor environment through a variety of sensors (temperature, light intensity, humidity, CO2 concentration, etc.) and automaticly adjusting each variable by controlling different devices (exhaust fans, louvre doors, heaters, grow lights, solenoid valves, pumps, etc.). The readings from all the sensors as well as the on/off status of all of the devices should be sent out over the internet and be viewed remotely and in real time from any computer or mobile phone.

As of this moment the greenhouse's skeleton is all that is completed. I didn't get as much done over the summer as I had hoped because of the nasty weather. However, over the winter I am working on constructing most of the hardware to go inside the greenhouse including the climate control system. I hope to be up and running by the time it's warm enough to start growing.

Each major section of this project should be it's own instructable and when it's all finished I'll compile it into a guide. For now I'll show you how I went from patch of land to a greenhouse skeleton.
 
Remove these adsRemove these ads by Signing Up

Step 1: Considerations to Make Before Starting

Picture of Considerations to Make Before Starting
SDC11552.JPG
I would venture to say that the single most important thing to consider when choosing a site for a greenhouse is sun exposure. A greenhouse should get as much sunlight as possible and in order to accomplish that it should be exposed to the open southern sky. Large objects on your property such as your house, a garage, a tool shed, fences, trees and embankments tend to cast long shadows on their north side and you don't want your greenhouse in any of them. This isn't much of a problem in the summer months or at low lattitudes but at high lattitudes in the fall, winter and spring this effect is quite profound. For instance, I live at 48 degrees North latitude and on a sunny winter's day my house casts a shadow almost all the way across the street.

In my particular case I got lucky because my backyard is totally southern exposed. The rear wall of my house faces almost perfectly south. It's only off by about 7 degrees to the east. I knew that I wanted to have both a garage and a greenhouse and my backyard is too narrow to put them both side by side. Even if I could put them side by side, the greenhouse would be in the shade of the garage either in the morning or in the evening, depending on which side it's on. So my solution was to put the greenhouse behind the garage.

The first picture is taken from an upstairs window looking south out over the backyard. The large orange rectangle closest to the camera is the site for the garage while the smaller rectangle out farther to the south is the greenhouse. The second picture is an "after" shot from the same location to clarify the meaning of the first picture.

You should also think about your local laws and building codes. In my municipality a building permit was required for my greenhouse and I had to follow a number of rules such as a 1.5 meter variance, a maximim size of 33% of my backyard and to keep it behind my building line (it has to be behind my house, not in front) to name a few. If you want a hydroponics system you may have to dump waste nutrient solution into the ground from time to time. Your town may forbid this, especially if there are drinking water wells nearby. You may also be required to let all of your neighbors know in advance and you might not be able to build if any of them have any objections. You should find out all of this in advance before you build because if you violate any municipal laws you'll probably be forced to tear it down and pay a fine.

Step 2: Preparing the Site

Picture of Preparing the Site
SDC11335.JPG
SDC11336.JPG
SDC11338.JPG
SDC11339.JPG
SDC11340.JPG
Once I decided where I was going to build the greenhouse the very first thing I did was use some orange marker paint to draw an outline of the greenhouse in the exact location I wanted it.

The next thing was to dig a trench about a foot wide and a foot deep centered on the orange lines. The trench is located directly under the concrete footing of the greenhouse. The trench would later be filled back in with crushed stone for the purpose of collecting excess rainwater and snow meltwater and directing it into the french drain that will run along my west property line about 5 feet away. Excess water underneath the greenhouse footing is bad because if it freezes it may lift the concrete and crack it up.

Before the trench was completely filled with stone I prepared a piece of PVC sewer pipe and laid it in the channel that connects the greenhouse trench to the french drain. The sewer pipe serves as a drain for waste water and nutrient solution from inside the greenhouse.  The sewer pipe will connect with the french drain and direct waste water into the storm drain (ditch) in front of the house.

Once the sewer pipe was in place, the entire site was filled with crushed stone, leveled and compacted with a vibratory plate compactor (or a "Jitterbug" as I like to call them). The Jitterbug is necessary to ensure the concrete has a nice firm surface to be poured on. The difference is actually quite remarkable. Before the Jitterbug the loose stone felt almost like walking on sand but after the jitterbig it was like walking on asphalt.

Now we're ready for the forms!

Step 3: The Concrete Form

I decided to build the greenhouse with a concrete footing mostly to discourage our infamous Newfoundland winds from picking it up from my yard and delivering it swiftly to the next town. In September of 2010 when Hurricane Igor hit, that's almost precisely what happened to my neighbor's patio of about 10 by 15 feet. So yeah... concrete footing it is.

The footing itself is 5 1/2 inches tall by 5 1/2 inches deep going all the way around the perimeter of the greenhouse. The outside dimensons are 10 feet 2 inches by 14 feet 2 inches and the inside dimensions are 9 feet 3 inches by 13 feet 9 inches. The framing is 2 by 4 lumber  so when the bottom wall plates are placed on the concrete the is an inch of concrete exposed all the way around both inside and outside.

The form itself is constructed out of 2 by 6 lumber with some 1 by 3 strapping for braces. This should be pretty stright forward to anyone with decent DIY skills. I built the form in the driveway and then moved the whole thing into position later.

Next came the anchor bolts and rebar. I drilled holes in each piece of strapping and inserted the anchor bolt, secured temporarily by the washer and nut. Then came the rebar. I bought the rebar in 8 foot lengths so it worked out that I only had to make one cut to get it all to fit right. That cut I made rather tediously with an angle grinder. I took advantage of the hook shape of the anchor bolt to hold the rebar up off of the ground a little, so that it is suspended inside the concrete rather than underneath it. Everything was tied up nice and tight with tie wire before calling that a day.

Before pouring the concrete I made sure everything was nice and square by checking the measurements of the corners. The distance between each pair of opposite corners should be the same or it's not square...even though it may look like it.

FInally, the last picture shows the PVC sewer pipe for the greenhouse drain. It goes from the inside of the greenhouse, underneath the footing and ends right where the french drain will be running perpendicular to it.

Step 4: Pouring the Concrete

Picture of Pouring the Concrete
SDC11422.JPG
SDC11423.JPG
SDC11424.JPG
SDC11425.JPG
This step was not fun at all. I mixed all of the concrete by hand in a wheelbarrow with a spade shovel... all 300 or so liters of it. It was a lot more work than I thought and if I could do it again I would have got one of those minature mixers that you can tow with your car.

I bought bags of portland cement and followed the recipe on the bag to make concrete. The recipe is 1 part portland cement to 2 parts sand to 3 parts crushed stone. I had a truckload of crushed stone on hand for my landscaping and I went to the local quarry to buy about 30 gallons of sand for 5 bucks. By buying the portland cement and following the recipe instead of buying bags of premixed concrete mix I saved a ton of money. It's not rocket surgery.

Once I had the form filled and the concrete screeted relatively smooth what I should have done was tapped the form all the way around with a hammer to work all the air bubbles to the surface. Instead I completely forgot to do this because I was so frustrated with mixing all of that concrete by hand as quickly as possible I was just glad to be done. The result was some rather rough looking concrete refered to as "Honeycombing" in the masonry trade. To fix this I made some sand/topping mix from 1 part portland cement to 3 parts sand and trowled it onto the footing to make it smooth, much like frosting a cake. I wet the concrete with a spray bottle as I went along to help stick the topping mix to the concrete. I had to fix the "Honeycombing" so that water couldn't pool in all the crevaces in the concrete and freeze, cracking ti all up.

Step 5: Framing and Erecting the Walls

The walls are very simple structures consisting of a pressure treated bottom plate, a spruce top plate and 81 inch tall studs spaced every 24 inches. The total hieght of the framed walls is 7 feet. The two 14 foot long walls worked out great because the length of the wall is an even multiple of the stud spacing. The two ten foot walls are actually 9 feet and 5 inches long to allow for the thickness of the two longer walls butting into them. The total length then becomes ten feet. The stud spacing on these shorter walls must then be adjusted accordingly. The center of the first stud must be 24 inches from the outside of the longer wall, not the edge of the shorter wall. So when you're marking out the stud locations of the shorter wall the first stud must be centered 20 1/2 inches from the edge.

One short wall is a little different because it has a doorway in the center. Not too hard, just a 24 inch opening with a jack stud and a king stud on each side and a header on top.

Before the walls could be erected I had to drill holes in the bottom plate for the anchor bolts to pass through. This was easy enough, just measure, mark and drill. If you have a friend this would be a good time for some help. I was alone at the time so I had to carry the walls over from the driveway and then lift them up over the anchor bolts and then lower them into place by myself. Have some lumber ready to use as temporary braces because the walls will not stand up on their own.

Once all four walls are in place all nailed together with an overlapping double top plate it's just about time to start roof framing.

Step 6: Framing the Roof and Installing the Purlins

A complete explanation of exactly how this was done will require a pretty deep excursion into framing methods and tool usage and measuring and marking devices and the like. However, it wasn't hard and it turned out well. It's the first time I ever did something like that and I was reling only on some internet research, some youtube videos and some previous experience with the tools I used.

To make a long story short, the first step was to erect the ridge pole which is a 14 foot long piece of 2 by 6. Then, each 2 by 4 rafter is put in place on 24 inch centers and secured both to the ridge pole on top and the wall's top plate on bottom. A strip of 1/2 inch plywood was secured along each side of the ridge and another strip of plywood run along the bottom edge of each side of the roof. This plywood serves as an attachment point for the glazing and to hold the roof square.

The rafter tails overhang the walls by one foot. The facia and soffit are dressed in 1/2 inch plywood. 

The roof and walls are all dressed in purlins which are the horozontal members that are used to support the glazing and serve as an attachment point. They are made from 8 foot long pieces of 2 by 6 lumber ripped down into 3/4 inch strips. This method is way cheaper than buying the strapping from the store. All that was needed was a table saw and some patience.

Finally, corner braces were added to each corner of all four walls for a total of 16. These are necessary to hold the structure stiff and square since there is no sheeting to handle that task. The ridge pole was also supported by a diagonal brace on each side to help hold the roof square. The final structure is as stiff and solid as a rock.

Step 8: Painting

Picture of Painting
SDC11517.JPG
SDC11518.JPG
SDC11519.JPG
SDC11520.JPG
Now everything needed to be painted, mostly for aesthetics but aslo to protect the wood from exposure to sunlight and water. There's not much to report here. I just grabbed a bucket of paint and a brush and got going.

To save time and sanity, a paint and primer in one was used. It was a little more expensive but well worth it. In all, a little over three gallons were used.

Step 9: Adding the Glazing

Picture of Adding the Glazing
SDC11551.JPG
SDC11546.JPG
SDC11547.JPG
SDC11548.JPG
SDC11549.JPG
The final step to completing the construction phase of the greenhouse would be to add the glazing. The glazing material in question is 8mm twin wall polycarbonate panels. A really good feature of these panels is that they have a bunch of cells that each have a small air space and provide a good degree of thermal insulation. I'm going to try to take advantage of this insulation to stretch the growing season as long as possible and maybe even all year. The panels are strong too. The manufacturer braggs that the panels are something like 25 times stronger than glass and 5 times stronger than acrylic and built to withstand golf ball sized hailstones.

Unfortunately I couldn't install the panels this season because of the nasty weather. As soon as I was done painting the greenhouse I had the concrete slab for the garage poured so I had to concentrate on building that. Constant wind and rainstorms diring the construction of the garage set my schedule back so far that by the time I was finished it was too cold out to use the caulking necessary to install the panels.

But for the time being, I have much to work on indoors such as:
  • The climate monitoring and control system. Based on the Arduino mega I got for Christmas and a whole bunch of sensors and devices.
  • The vertical garden. A modular configuration of hydroponic grow tubes stacked vertically. It will be able to hold up to 72 small plants. The whole thing will be built in my workshop and transported and installed as a unit (hence the modularity). Once a couple of plumbing connections are made it should be ready to go.
  • The main components of the large grow tubes such as the grow tubes themselves and the micro sprinkler irrigation systems that will go inside them.
  • A solar thermal collector so that I can produce and store hot water in the daytime and use it to heat the greenhouse in the night time.
  • Plus more!
This article will be expanded as soon as the glazing is installed but I guess that's it for now. I hope you enjoyed the read and please stay tuned for updates and related articles. Maybe you could even subscribe! Cheers!
R-A1 month ago

Hi,

I'm quite interested in your greenhouse project and have a question for which I can't seem to get a clean answer.

Where do you place the temperature sensor, inside the greenhouse? And how do you protect it from the sun, and moisture / wind?

i.e. how do you know the temperatures reported are accurate, and not affected by the elements?

fuelapocalypse11 months ago
this is possibly the greatest piece of greenhouse porn I have seen on instructables. Very professional. I cant wait to see how it turns out.
nice
billyj7891 year ago
How do you heat your Green House? I have 15x20ft green house in Colorado and I paid out the wazoo trying to heat it this winter... I think im going to build a rocket heater for next season. Have you ever heard of a company www.dragonheaters.com? MY friend has built many rocket heaters but they never last. Has anyone heard of this company?\
EcoMotive (author)  billyj7891 year ago
Hi Billy,

To date, I have not made an attempt at heating this greenhouse. I've had to abandon the project last summer before it was completed and coincidentally I just started work on it again today.
I have a few heating strategies planned. The first would be to take several black-painted 55 gallon plastic drums full of water and place them in the greenhouse. Hopefully the water would heat up during the day and have enough thermal mass to keep the greenhouse warm overnight. If this isn't enough I'll build an active solar thermal collector to heat the water in the drums. I'll use an electric heater as backup.
I am also going to convert the greenhouse into a "passive solar greenhouse". Basically, all sides are sheeted and insulated except for the South wall and South slope of the roof. This would reduce night time heat loss and make the water barrels more effective. You can find out more here http://www.passivesolargreenhouse.com/

Hope this helps.

Lance
This may be a dumb question but where did you buy your polycarbonate. Cause the web address on those pics only sell it in bulk of 1800 square meters?
ortsa1 year ago
Looks like a nice greenhouse but it seems a little overbuilt to me, all those big pieces of wood combined with polycarbonate glazing will cut a lot of light out. In my opinion half boarding the sides with ship lap and polystyrene and then glazing with 4mm safety glass adding clear plastic or bubble depending on heating expenses in winter is the best setup.
EcoMotive (author)  ortsa1 year ago
I don't think there's such a term as "overbuilt". It is built with a concrete footing and 2x4 framing in order to have the strength to put up with this area's notoriously strong, constant and damaging winds. The polycarbonate was used for it's impact resistance from flying debris and hailstorms where glass would shatter easily (not to mention glass is several times more expensive, heavy and has a low R-value).
The light levels in the greenhouse are fine. I had no problem growing a bountiful crop of tomatoes in it last summer, despite our very short growing season.
Thanks for your comments.
Its good that you have had success with the greenhouse. I live in England so i never considered the effects of strong winds or debris. I get a lot of shade so I'm constantly looking at getting as much light transmission as possible. There are other options like wind fences, hedges or toughened glass but if cost is an issue it could be at least partially offset by reducing the thickness of the wood. And while polycarbonate is cheaper initially it does have its disadvantages and only lasts maybe 10 years, the glass in my greenhouse is probably 40+ years old and still going strong.
Bown86 ortsa1 year ago
Good luck getting a wind fence or hedge to work here in Newfoundland. My neighbour's 32 RV flipped over the other day and it was behind a 'wind fence'. Hedges aren't suitable for the salt spray either, they grow so thinly and are not worth the effort you need to give them in our harsh climate. As for toughened glass, I've seen sky lights, car windows, and industrial windows destroyed by blowing debris and hail stones here in NL. Neither of those materials are suitable for our climate, perhaps for yours but definitely not for a rugged place like Newfoundland and Labrador.

Thanks for the great Instructable LancePenney. It suits me perfectly! I live on a plateau of cliff overlooking the ocean in central and I need a durable greenhouse. :) While the ocean gives me awesome fertilizer and sand for my soil she sure is rough on my garden..
EcoMotive (author)  Bown861 year ago
Hey! It's great to see a fellow Newfie on here. Greetings from Torbay. My greenhouse construction and materials were inspired by Igor when I watched my neighbor's deck detach from the house and roll down the street. I don't think the polycarb has been impacted by any debris yet but it stood up to Leslie no problem. Thanks for your comment!
Those were some pretty wild storms, we never got hit too bad for Igor or Leslie out near Gander Bay but there was a storm in the December after Igor that caused a lot of damage.

I actually went to Instructables to look for a greenhouse plan and decided to search "Newfoundland" since I knew I would need one made by someone who knew the climate and you showed up!! I'm right happy!! LOL
andybuda1 year ago
i good idea is to add a solar powered exhaust fan more sun the more the fan works
Jerry662 years ago
Nice clean job! One other easy item is to add at least 2 rafter ties. They are horizontal 2x4s attached from one rafter to the opposite side at about halfway up from the top of the top plate to the ridge. They are simple, but important bracing to keep the center of the greenhouse from spreading out, or "caving in". You can cut and paint them on the ground, or indoors, and then install them and touch up the nails. Even just one tie would do a lot.
static Jerry662 years ago
As it ran in my mind what you describe are more often called collar ties, I did a search and located http://www.nachi.org/collar-rafter-ties.htm . from that page;

Collar Ties
collar rafter tie
Collar ties are designed to tie together the tops of opposing rafters. This helps brace the roof framing against uplift caused by wind. Collar ties must be placed in the upper third of the roof.

  • Collar ties, contrary to popular belief, do not prevent walls from spreading. 
 
Rafter Ties
 
Rafter ties are designed to tie together the bottoms of opposing rafters. This helps keep walls from spreading due to the weight of the roof. When the walls spread, the ridge will sag. A sagging ridge is one clue that the home may lack adequate rafter ties. Rafter ties form the bottom chord of a simple triangular roof truss. They should be placed as low as possible in the roof framing.

Personally I really never knew what their "official" purpose was. until now. Thanks to your comment now I do, along with a web site I can search for other items.
 
EcoMotive (author)  Jerry662 years ago
Thanks. I had a plan to use some steel aircraft cable together with the appropriate rigging and turnbuclkes. That way it wouldn't block out as much sunlight and I can turn the turnbucles whenever I need to draw the two sides of the greenhouse together.
Cable will only hold up to tension (spreading out) and not compression (caving in). At 48degN you need to be concerned with both wind and snow which usually exert a large amount of compression. You really should use a rigid material for the rafter ties. Sunlight getting through is important so metal-especially steel-is a good choice so instead of cable look for u-channel, hollow square, or angle stock (flat pieces are likely to bend). Copper and aluminum are too likely to bend or stretch so try to avoid them if possible especially where snow is an issue. Another option is *rigid* metal conduit meant to safely bury electrical wires-I've known several people who have used them successfully for the ties in various greenhouses in the northern US although the connections can be tricky since conduit doesn't normally have any flat sides.

If cables are all that you can find, instead of putting them straight across like the rafters are, put them diagonally from corner to corner in pairs so that they form an X. It's not perfect and will still be susceptible to compression but it shouldn't be quite so bad and the frame is more likely to stay square. Structural cables are really meant to be placed diagonally and are just to keep walls/frames square and plumb. When used in pairs they make a loosely framed wall much more rigid and better than nothing but again, they won't help with the compression such as from wind or snow.

Sorry about the long winded reply but I've seen a few too many structures supposedly reinforced by cables that still collapse from snow load or a good windstorm.
EcoMotive (author)  winterwindarts2 years ago
The plan was to put the cable on the two long walls that are not the gable end walls (I dont know what you call them). If the cable were to run from top plate to top plate then any compression on the roof would translate to tension on the cable.
However, I have two pepole now who seem to know what they're talking about telling me I should use rafter ties. Perhaps I will use ties but I will install the cable first and use the turnbuckles to draw the two walls together and hold them in place while I install the ties.
As for the rest of the structure, the corner braces on the walls should be enough to hold everything stiff. It cant be any worse than the 7/16 OSB (or "Cornflake Board") they use for houses these days.
Thank you for all your advice, both you and "Indegreen"
I'm not sure what running the cables along the top plate of the non gable walls would accomplish, unless the top plate is pieced and it's pulling apart with no load. The compression on the roof would create tension in the direction of the top plate of the *gable* walls but the compression would just result in a downward force on the non gable walls-not tension along the top plate. Things change when you take wind into account but the non gable walls still don't experience much tension structurally.

Push straight down on an upright pole and you aren't going to do much other than sink it deeper into the ground. Push straight down on the top joint of an A frame without a horizontal cross piece to hold the legs in place (so really an upside down V) and it's going to collapse as the legs spread out.

Triangles are only more sturdy than a rectangle if all three sides are attached to each other, remove one of the sides and it fails which is the reason for using rafter ties.

The frame of your greenhouse is already looking much more secure than most, especially with the crosspieces in the corners of all the walls. A lot of people buy kits with metal frames that bend a bit too easily (including me) with joints that aren't as secure as they should be and have to spend a lot of time jury rigging repairs or see everything come crashing down.
EcoMotive (author)  winterwindarts2 years ago
The cable I was proposing would run from one leg of the upside down V frame to the other leg of the a frame. When you push down on the top joint of the V frame, the cable would prevent the two legs from spreading out and collapsing. It would also prevent the downward force on the V frame from spreading apart the two non-gable end walls. So weather the cable or rafter tie (doesnt matter which one) is attached between the legs of the A frame or attached between opposite non-gable end walls, the dynamics of the entire system are the same and a downward force on the roof does not translate to lateral force. The only difference is that the rafter ties make the structure look like an A and the cable between the top plates make the structure look like a triangle. If you were to use a piece of wood in place of my proposed cable placement, you would essentialy have the bottom cord of a truss which we all know is structurally sound.
bpark10002 years ago
If you are trying to extend your season more, consider 5 layer polycarbonate glazing. It has thick layers inside and outside, and 3 thin intermediate layers. Remember that polycarbonate sheet made for greenhouses has a co-extruded UV absorber on one side only.  If you put it up backwards, it will be degraded quickly!  Usually the UV-protected side is coated with a light blue plastic protective sheeting.  After cutting to size, peel the blue sheeting off only around the edges, then install.  After everything is done, you can double-check that all the panels are facing correctly (blue film to the outside) before peeling off the film.  (Beware when cutting triangle shaped pieces that are not mirror symmetrical, that you cut them properly so the blue faces out!)

Do not stack polycarbonate panels on the ground in the sun!  The heat can accumulate amongst the panels and melt them!  Cover them up or place on the ground one layer only.
Nice work Lance, and a detailed set of photos.

We are interested in erecting a very similar type of greenhouse, using an arduino controlled automated watering system. I have seen a simple controller setup on this site.

Will follow your progress, particularly how the carbonate sheeting stands up to punishment. Hale can be a problem where we live (sub tropical Queensland), sometimes biggier than golf balls...
I have plenty of toughened glass for the sides, was looking for something more resilient for the roof, so that may be the answer.

cblair12 years ago
Thank you so much for this wonderful project! I really wanted to thank you for the great information about permits, rules and regulations!!!! These are often forgot about!! I look forward to following this project, I live almost on a Great Lake, so I am not sure I can built this unless I can some how figure out where to put my waste water without it going into the ground, this would be a big NO NO and huge fines in my location. Thanks again!
85rocco2 years ago
I've built a couple of greenhouses and learned from my mistakes; there are a few special considerations in greenhouse design that many inexperienced builders overlook, if you design it like you would a garden shed only with clear glazing, you're going to have problems. The most critical factor to consider is control of condensation, under certain weather conditions, there will be a LOT of condensation formed on the glazing, you need to make sure that all that water has somewhere to go, if for example, it collects on the top or bottom plate of the wall or in the soffits, you'll quickly get mold and mildew problems, wood rotting etc. designing away as many of those flat horizontal surfaces as possible will pay dividends in the long run. Along those same lines, use a good quality, mildew resistant paint. Also, design in as much ventilation as you can, it's almost impossible to have too much and make sure some of it is useable when it's raining.
Lovely work.
We do want to see how she turns out.
If you could explain a bit more about the polycarbonate sheeting and where you got it and how you install it, that would be good.
Thanks.
rf
EcoMotive (author)  Ricardo Furioso2 years ago
Thank you. I will be sure to provide much detail on the installation of the polycarbonate panels when I am able to. I got the panels from a company called "Harnois" that are based in Quebec I believe. I found a local distributor here in St. John's and they shipped them in from Toronto.
wallerps2 years ago
Lance, I'd like to thank you as well for putting this up. I've been thinking of doing something like this for a while and seeing your design has encouraged me to go ahead and get it started. I have a very sloping yard so I will do a lot more foundation work than your project, but renting a cement mixer is the way to go for sure. I look forward to seeing the finished product when you get a chance to finish it.

Happy New Year, from Sparkie in Quinton Alabama
Thank you for this comprehensive and clear Instructable!
miguipda2 years ago
Hi,

a real interesting project. Please do not forget to precise the code used with your arduino (networking project).

For information I found this arduino (supported code) with already more specification that the original arduino (for the same price) :
http://www.freetronics.com/products/etherten

This self sufficient arduino is also a need to reduce cost :
http://www.instructables.com/id/Self-Sufficient-Arduino-Board/?ALLSTEPS

A moisture control is also interesting :
http://www.instructables.com/id/Garduino-Gardening-Arduino/step4/Build-Your-Moisture-Sensor/

To manage a watering controller :
http://www.instructables.com/id/A-watering-controller-that-can-be-home-networked/

And this could also interesting you :
http://www.instructables.com/id/Backyard-Automated-Greenhouse/
http://www.instructables.com/id/Garduino-Gardening-Arduino/

Then I will stay tuned to your project because I hope be able to do the same.

I wish you a Happy New Year.

Miguipda ;-)
Dr.Bill2 years ago
Why are the footings on the surface?
Why do they not go into a trench as a foundation is usually built?
EcoMotive (author)  Dr.Bill2 years ago
Once the area around the greenhouse is landscaped, the footings will be backfilled right to the top with topsoil and that way it will kind of be in a trench.
wierdguy032 years ago
i was planning on making an instructable similar to this in the next couple months, but now i guess i won't since you provided very good explanations for everything, very good thus far.
Do it anyway. Yuu might have some variations that would be helpful for someone.
Thank you for putting this up. I really like your thorough process on erecting the frame. When I get somewhere where we're not renting a house, I'll be sure to use these methods to make mine. Hope to see your hydroponic system by then too! =D
Pro

Get More Out of Instructables

Already have an Account?

close

PDF Downloads
As a Pro member, you will gain access to download any Instructable in the PDF format. You also have the ability to customize your PDF download.

Upgrade to Pro today!