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Step 3Preparing the frame
For the frame, you will start with four rails of even length. Two will be the top and bottom (which I did not need to cut for my camera), and two will be the sides.
Measure the size (height and width) of the hood on your video camera, and miter the rails to fit. (For the side rails, keep in mind that the batteries need to fit into the inner channels, and will stick out the thickness of the foam tape.)
You can probably forego the mitering if it's something that intimidates you; however, your frame will be larger than the hood and may require more rigging later when attaching it to your camera.
For my camera, the 5-inch frame worked out to be the ideal length for the top and bottom. For the height, I mitered two of the pieces down to 4.5 inches. (This also worked out to be a perfect length for the battery holders.)
Drill holes on the ends of the top and bottom rails of the frame, where the barrel nuts will attach the LED's. Keep in mind where the batteries are going to lie in the side rails. This hole should go clean through the entire frame to create a screwdriver access hole in the back of the frame. This will make attaching the LED's much easier.
Drill a second hole 3/16" in from the first holes for the wires to thread through. This one only needs to go through the face of the frame.
On the back top rail of the frame, drill a hole two inches in for placement of the on/off switch. Measure the threads on your switch to figure out the size of the bit. You may need to drill a bit larger to give yourself some play in order to get the switch into the frame.
This next step can be done one of two ways. Using a #36 bit drill a hole centered on the outside egde of the top and bottom rail. These will be to place spring clips to hold the frame on the hood of the camera. Now this will need to be tapped to accept a 6-32 screw, but the easy alternative is to buy 6-32 self-tapping screws, available at most hardware stores.
Place doublestick foam in the channels where the battery holders will be placed later.
Now is a good time to test-fit the frame to make sure it fits around the hood of your camera.
Slide one set of the included angle hardware into each side of the top and bottom rails. Lightly tighten the screws. Next, attach the two sides to either the top or bottom, keeping the screws slightly loose as this will help fit the last part of the frame into place.
Place batteries in the holders and place them temporarily in the channels as well. Once you are certain everything works around the hood, you can disassemble. This will make wiring a whole lot easier.
Measure the size (height and width) of the hood on your video camera, and miter the rails to fit. (For the side rails, keep in mind that the batteries need to fit into the inner channels, and will stick out the thickness of the foam tape.)
You can probably forego the mitering if it's something that intimidates you; however, your frame will be larger than the hood and may require more rigging later when attaching it to your camera.
For my camera, the 5-inch frame worked out to be the ideal length for the top and bottom. For the height, I mitered two of the pieces down to 4.5 inches. (This also worked out to be a perfect length for the battery holders.)
Drill holes on the ends of the top and bottom rails of the frame, where the barrel nuts will attach the LED's. Keep in mind where the batteries are going to lie in the side rails. This hole should go clean through the entire frame to create a screwdriver access hole in the back of the frame. This will make attaching the LED's much easier.
Drill a second hole 3/16" in from the first holes for the wires to thread through. This one only needs to go through the face of the frame.
On the back top rail of the frame, drill a hole two inches in for placement of the on/off switch. Measure the threads on your switch to figure out the size of the bit. You may need to drill a bit larger to give yourself some play in order to get the switch into the frame.
This next step can be done one of two ways. Using a #36 bit drill a hole centered on the outside egde of the top and bottom rail. These will be to place spring clips to hold the frame on the hood of the camera. Now this will need to be tapped to accept a 6-32 screw, but the easy alternative is to buy 6-32 self-tapping screws, available at most hardware stores.
Place doublestick foam in the channels where the battery holders will be placed later.
Now is a good time to test-fit the frame to make sure it fits around the hood of your camera.
Slide one set of the included angle hardware into each side of the top and bottom rails. Lightly tighten the screws. Next, attach the two sides to either the top or bottom, keeping the screws slightly loose as this will help fit the last part of the frame into place.
Place batteries in the holders and place them temporarily in the channels as well. Once you are certain everything works around the hood, you can disassemble. This will make wiring a whole lot easier.
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