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Step 5Wiring
On each LED, solder a red wire to the positive terminal and a black wire to the negative terminal.
For each diffusion holder, unscrew the top and insert an LED (with its barrel nut) into the center hole at the bottom. Thread the wires through the second hole.
Attach the four LED's to the respective frame rails, securing with accompanying screws. Before securing, thread the wires through the aligned frame holes. A little loctite threadlocker is recommended on the threads since you may be screwing the diffusion caps on and off from time to time. This will help prevent the barrel nut from loosening.
Now would be a good time to start assembling the frame as you did during the test fit.
Now you can remove the protective paper from the foam tape. From the bottom rail, run your red and black leads, coming from the LED's, up the foam tape to store them behind the battery holders.
Insert the battery holders on the doublestick foam, making sure that you end up with the black wire from one and the red wire from the other at the bottom of the frame. It will be a tight fit so make certain they are the right position before pressing them down on the tape.
On the bottom rail, connect the red and black wires from the two battery holders. Seal connection with electrical tape or heat shrink.
Connect all the red wires from the LEDs, and connect all the black wires to the negative lead from the battery holder.
Solder the positive lead from the battery holder to the on/off switch.
Solder a lead from the on/off switch to the LED's. However, in this line you need to wire a resistor in line on the lead coming from the switch. (For my LED's and power source, a 1.5-Ohm resistor was required.)
LED calculator
This will now connect to the four positive LED wires.
Insert switch in top rail through pre-drilled hole. Secure with nut.
Using electrical tape or heatshrink tubing, cover any and all exposed wires. Neatly tuck the wire into the frame and tape down.
Insert batteries and test!
For each diffusion holder, unscrew the top and insert an LED (with its barrel nut) into the center hole at the bottom. Thread the wires through the second hole.
Attach the four LED's to the respective frame rails, securing with accompanying screws. Before securing, thread the wires through the aligned frame holes. A little loctite threadlocker is recommended on the threads since you may be screwing the diffusion caps on and off from time to time. This will help prevent the barrel nut from loosening.
Now would be a good time to start assembling the frame as you did during the test fit.
Now you can remove the protective paper from the foam tape. From the bottom rail, run your red and black leads, coming from the LED's, up the foam tape to store them behind the battery holders.
Insert the battery holders on the doublestick foam, making sure that you end up with the black wire from one and the red wire from the other at the bottom of the frame. It will be a tight fit so make certain they are the right position before pressing them down on the tape.
On the bottom rail, connect the red and black wires from the two battery holders. Seal connection with electrical tape or heat shrink.
Connect all the red wires from the LEDs, and connect all the black wires to the negative lead from the battery holder.
Solder the positive lead from the battery holder to the on/off switch.
Solder a lead from the on/off switch to the LED's. However, in this line you need to wire a resistor in line on the lead coming from the switch. (For my LED's and power source, a 1.5-Ohm resistor was required.)
LED calculator
This will now connect to the four positive LED wires.
Insert switch in top rail through pre-drilled hole. Secure with nut.
Using electrical tape or heatshrink tubing, cover any and all exposed wires. Neatly tuck the wire into the frame and tape down.
Insert batteries and test!
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