The best way to do projects.
But anyway, with no further ado, may I present to you: The Keg-Kart
***If you would like to undertake this project yourself, it is highly advisable to have access to a lathe, welder and a good supplier of odds and ends that may come in handy for any changes to my design.
If you want any further details, email me at: email@example.com
WHAT YOU WILL NEED: the whole cost of the project for me was $50, you might not be so lucky.
About 2m round metal stock
One sealed bearing of indeterminate size
Other stuff that you will need to improvise with
Some form of welder.
Step 1: Aquiring the Keg. (Empty Not Necessary If You Have a Lot of Friends)
Go to a local pub, preferably during the day, and just ask.
I said something along the lines of needing it to make a major metalwork project.
And to my disbelief, they led me downstairs to under the pub and pointed at two kegs that were separated from the rest.
"take a pick" the manager said.
I don't know what the reason behind letting me take a good amount of money worth of stainless steel was, but i am very grateful for it.
Of course, there are other, more illegitimate methods to aquire a keg. None of which I will divulge or reccomend.
If you've made it this far then congratulations! If the project doesnt work out, you could always use the keg as a table or a stool.
Once you have the keg you need to depressurize it. I did this by bearing down onto the valve with a broom handle. This is only a good idea if you WANT to end up smelling of stale beer. Lay the keg on its side, in your backyard, straddle it and bear onto the valve with a broom. Hopefully, a fantastic jet of stale beer mist will be ejected forth.
Step 2: Cut 'n Clean
Do this by cutting along the lowermost weld with an angle grinder and cutting disk.
Wash it out and proceed to file the edges and rip out the tap that runs down to the bottom (which you just cut away so it will protrude out a tiny bit)
Step 3: Components: Steering Fork
From now on the steps will be copies of the steps i wrote for my project folio, because i have zero patience.
Steering Fork: A single mild steel band is cut into 3 sections, two of them the same dimensions. A hole is drilled through the matching bands for the spindle to rest.
The 3 bands are then welded at right angles to form the steering fork. The spindle is drilled on either end to allow the use of split pins or to provide a foothold for weld spots.
Step 4: Upper Bearing
To prevent the steering column moving up and down due to the force exerted by a person sitting on the keg, it is best to use a bicycle hub to secure the upper part of the column. However, to allow the whole bearing to remain inside the keg, a pipe is needed so that the bearing can be fixed to the inside of the keg, yet still allow the top of the hub spindle to protrude through the top of the keg. This minimizes exterior work, keeping the keg recognizable. The hub is slipped into the pipe, with one end of the spindle fully protruding (see right hand picture) and on the other side, the spindle protrudes but not so much so that the locking nuts extend beyond the pipe. I was lucky enough to procure a length of steel piping that fit the hub with very little work.
Step 5: Fixed Rear Axle:
Once the axle is in place, it can then be welded to ensure that it is sound.
Step 6: Lower Steering Bearing:
In the lower right photograph, the bottom of the steering column is shown lathed to fit the bearing perfectly. All that is needed is a tacking weld to keep it in place.
Step 7: Assembling the Steering Components:
The lower bearing holder can now be secured below the upper bearing with 2 pieces of 10mm round stock. Once both bearings are in place, the steering column can be slipped into the lower bearing fully, then drawn back to meet with the hub spindle. A drilled hole in the face of the column that meets with the hub will assist in welding the two together. The lower bearing can be left as is.
NOTE: in this picture, the keg is upside down. Just making sure.
Now that the steering assembly is in place, the steering fork can be fixed to the end of the column. To aid in steering and help the keg to run in a default straight direction, the steering fork should be welded back from the centre of the plate. This means that the forces exerted onto the wheel while the keg is moving forward assist in the front wheel reverting to a direction of least resistance. In this case, forward.
Step 8: Making Holes
Step 9: Replace the Bottom of the Keg:
Before replacing the bottom of the keg, cold galvanizing paint may be used on the welds to ensure they do not rust.
Step 10: The Steering (yoke):
The yoke is constructed of a length of 10mm round stock, cold bent to make a lever and then welded to the small protruding hub spindle (visible in this picture, the spindle can be seen protruding about 12mm)
A cap can now be put on the end of the yoke for aesthetics. This cap is made from 14mm stock with a 10mm hole put in the centre with a lathe. The cap is slipped over the end of the yoke and then welded in place. It is then galvanized.
Step 11: Rear Wheels:
This marks the completion of the prototype Keg-Kart
Finishing measures can be taken, such as exterior rust proofing on the welds, as below.
Enjoy your newly created and inherently dangerous machine of excellence. You've earned it.
Remember kids, brakes not only stop speed, but fun also!
Thats it folks, if you liked the idea or have anything to add, please comment.
Need further details or justification of choices or anything like that, the address again is: firstname.lastname@example.org