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Signing UpStep 1: The build
Materials:
Sheet of 3/4" smooth plywood
Sheet of 1/2 plywood
Lazy susan
Long bolt and washers for top pivot point
Misc. trim /spacer wood
Rubber wheel 6"
Screws
Wood glue
Trim to match house
Gate latch with fishing string and special book for secret opener.
The Build
I begin by making a door frame to the exact measurements of my brothers closet. The dimensions of the finished door came out to be 34" wide, 77" tall and 8" deep. I assume if you are building this project you have enough wood working skills to make a bookshelf and your sizing will vary so I won't go into detail about that.
The door is a solid bookcase made from 3/4 smooth plywood and 1/2" regular plywood for the back. Glued and screwed on all sides. There are five attached shelves and adjustable shelf holes drilled at the top. I made a template to help drill the holes all the correct width and height.
One of the hardest parts was the hinge point. I used a lazy suzan on some 2x4 blocks for the bottom and a long bolt for the top. It took a lot of measuring and testing to get it centered right. Adequate spacing was needed on the hinge side to just barely clear the door frame and still be covered by trim.
Most commercial doors have steel frames and don't need caster wheels. Due to the weight of the shelves and contents we added a bed caster. Which needs to be changed because it's marking my brothers soft wood floors.
**Update. New 6 inch rubber wheel replacing bed caster, installed a little bit higher and hidden with fake books. It does not even hit the floor so I think this fixes the problem.








































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http://www.instructables.com/id/Bookcase-Han-in-Carbonite-Hidden-Door/?ALLSTEPS
If I can talk my wife into letting me do this to our coat closet I will definitly try it, especially since my last built in didn't work.
I may have missed my chance for this project... :-(
Example from firefighter's website http://www.vententersearch.com/?p=963
On a better note - you can hide the wheel track by having the door open inwards rather than outwards.
The weight of the door on the wheel is what's doing the marking, so if you can lighten the load either by less weight, or have a counterweight then it will mark the floor less.
Thanks for sharing ...
1. Use the rosette to your advantage. Nothing hides a latch release like a dark-stained rosette that's had it's center bored out and replaced with an identical button.
2. Knots in plywood are your friends; run a 1/16" twist bit through the heart of the knot, flip and bore almost completely through from the back using a forstner bit. Knock out the knot and replace with an appropriately sized slice of pine stick epoxied to your release mechanism. Sand flush and viola --1 invisible release button.
As for the roller problem, if the opening is wide enough, the pivot could be in the middle, which with adequate strength/stiffness of the bookcase carcass removes the need for a roller.
But if you want/need the pivot on one side as shown, remember the problem comes down to PSI, or lbs.per square inch (apologies to our metric readers, is it N/m-squared?). So in addition to a softer surface (which will help keep from driving stray grit/gravel into the floor) you really want to make the roller as wide as possible, perhaps even run them in tandem. How about a rolling pin? Or 4?
Nice job, any way. I think the suggestion below to notify the fire department about its presence is a wise one. YMMV
My favorite is the tilting book door latch. I want one.
Also if the floors are that soft bro may want to keep the weight down so a track does not develop giving the secret away.
Here's a link to the video we took at the time (featuring my sister Donna in the Vanna White role). I knew if we just went and told people about it, no one would believe us, so we took pictures :)
http://youtu.be/mdPV9fz1OMM