The Near-Perfect Tent: Design and Build a Recycled Tent

 by bentm
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Step 3: Make a Parts List

C:\Documents and Settings\Owner\My Documents\My Pictures\2006_02_16\IMG_3681.JPG
C:\Documents and Settings\Owner\My Documents\My Pictures\2006_02_16\IMG_3686.JPG
C:\Documents and Settings\Owner\My Documents\My Pictures\2006_02_16\IMG_3684.JPG
C:\Documents and Settings\Owner\My Documents\My Pictures\2006_02_16\IMG_3685.JPG
G:\2006_06_17\top piece.JPG
G:\2006_06_17\top and end piece.JPG
...or for the Frankentent, you might call it a Patch list...
This is simply a list of the tent parts you'll be making and their dimensions.

If you're like me, and you probably are since you're reading this and not a book on how to sew, you like visual aids. I diagrammed each constituative tent part before I started cutting things out. The photos of these are below.

To write up your parts list, just take the dimensions you recorded from the mock-up and add a 1/2"-1" seam allowance (the amount of material that will be used up in the seam when you sew pieces together) to any edge that will be sewn to another edge--pretty much all of them in this case.

'For Example:
the front door's finished dimensions taken off the mock-up are
'57" high x 72" wide.'
So, adding the seam allowance, the rough dimensions for the door is 57" + 1/2" lower seam +1/2" upper seam x 72" + 1/2" left seam + 1/2" right seam; or 58" x 73" total.

For those of you who have figured out at this point that the Pretty Great Tent actually is the Perfect Tent and are ready to partake in the Dream, here's the Parts List for my Pretty Great Tent :

Ripstop:
1 Floor: 82" x 94"
1 Roof: Made of several pieces; a window frame, screen window, and solid lower panel.
-window frame:
2 6" x 56"
1 6" x 74"
-top panel: 45.5" x 74"
1 Front Door: 55" x 74"
1 Back Wall: 14" x 74"
2 Side Walls: 55" high x 85"long x 14" lower height
1 Fly: 1 pc. 194" x 72", another few pieces to be determined later.

Screen:
1 Front Door: 58" x 73"
2 Side Doors: 30"w x 50"h
1 Foot Wall Vent/Window: 65" x 10"

Zippers:
4 Side Doors: roughly 100" each
2 Front Doors: 186" each
1 Foot Vent: 82"
(You'll need 2 zipper pulls per zipper, or 14 pulls in all.) Again, zippers are pricey. I had to buy some of the zippers I needed new and they were the single biggest expense for the tent.

Webbing:
How much you'll need will depend on how you want to make your tie-down and guy line attachments. I just used some 1 1/2" and 2" wide webbing I had from an old backpack I cut up for other projects.
Each piece was about 3-4" long for the tent tie-downs, and about 2-3" for the fly. You'll Need:
4 corner peg loops
4 pole loops
2 rear corner tie downs
7 Other tie downs on the fly

Cordage:
use what you have, or get some line of your choice for the guy lines. You'll need about 30' of it for both the fly and the tent.

New Materials Sources:
I couldn't scavenge everything I needed for the tent, so I had to buy some. One dumb thing I did was cut up the zippers on the cat-box cabin tent when I was ripping it apart, assuming that zipper-by-the-foot was cheap. It's not.
And since the moldy cat-box tent's windows were shot, I bought some "noseeum" mesh new from an online dealer.

Outdoor Wilderness Fabrics online rocks, and the people there are good sources of info.
I bought the poyester 'noseeum' mesh from the brilliantly-named NettingWorld online.

Seattle Fabrics is a complete, though more expensive source. If you're in town, one thing they have that's awesome is a discount bin full of little sacks of scrap material, scrap webbing, zippers, velcro, and other junk. They also have some good patterns, examples of stuff you can make, and if you go to the right person, enough snottiness in the service to help you feel like you're an integral part of the hep-cat revolution or whatever.

As always, the thrift store has old school bags and what have you that you can cut up to get the webbing pieces you need, or you can just apply your imagination to whatever you've got in your cultch pile.

A final note about zippers: I did use a few old zippers and they're fine. Instead of having a continuous zipper all around the front door, separate zippers work one side of the door, and another zipper runs along the other side and the bottom. You could work something similar out with the other doors and window.

 
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