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Step 7Taking Out the Necessary Parts
Next you'll have to unscrew and remove the joysticks, one of the pulleys, and the two spools, complete with the electrical board. All of these are simply held in with screws and are fairly easy to remove. The joysticks can be removed by taking out the four screws visible in the joystick electrical board. The pulley is kept in by a pair of screws underneath this board. The spool casings are each kept in by three screws. When removing the spool casings make sure that you are removing the screws which connect the casing to the base, not those which keep the casing together. (See the pictures for specifics.)
It may be a little tricky to remove all of these components considering that the wires are still under tension. Eventually you'll have to remove those plastic connectors to remove the joysticks, so you may as well go ahead and do so now. Just be careful not to loose a grip on the wires and let them snap back into the spool. Go ahead and cut the wire just below the connectors. Once you have the wires unthreaded from the joysticks I suggest putting the connectors back on before rethreading them and tying a strong knot to keep it from pulling through again. These connectors should keep the wire from fully retracting.
You'll also find that the two joysticks and the two spools will become a little unwieldy since they're all connected with rather short wires to the electrical board. These are connected to the board with small plastic connectors and you could just disconnect these, but I found them difficult to pull out without damaging the wires since they are glued in place. Overall, I found it easier to just snip each wire approximately half way, leaving enough space to strip and solder later on. You shouldn't have to disconnect the wires leading to the spool on which the board sits nor the output USB chord.
When all is thoroughly torn apart you should have been able to salvage two spools with their wires retracted (one with the board connected), two joysticks, and one pulley (you don't need the other.) These five components will form the core of the Ondestrak.
It may be a little tricky to remove all of these components considering that the wires are still under tension. Eventually you'll have to remove those plastic connectors to remove the joysticks, so you may as well go ahead and do so now. Just be careful not to loose a grip on the wires and let them snap back into the spool. Go ahead and cut the wire just below the connectors. Once you have the wires unthreaded from the joysticks I suggest putting the connectors back on before rethreading them and tying a strong knot to keep it from pulling through again. These connectors should keep the wire from fully retracting.
You'll also find that the two joysticks and the two spools will become a little unwieldy since they're all connected with rather short wires to the electrical board. These are connected to the board with small plastic connectors and you could just disconnect these, but I found them difficult to pull out without damaging the wires since they are glued in place. Overall, I found it easier to just snip each wire approximately half way, leaving enough space to strip and solder later on. You shouldn't have to disconnect the wires leading to the spool on which the board sits nor the output USB chord.
When all is thoroughly torn apart you should have been able to salvage two spools with their wires retracted (one with the board connected), two joysticks, and one pulley (you don't need the other.) These five components will form the core of the Ondestrak.
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