Step 5Downsides and Drawbacks
I have been told that the paint will chalk, chip and fade all within a year. I have also been told that if you want to seek a professional paint job after having performed this paint job on your car, you will need to have all of the Rustoleum stripped off completely before the new paint can be applied.
My rebuttle...? So what.
Even if the paint does chip, fade or crack within a year, I'll just throw another coat on and perhaps improve the prep work to help avoid it happenign again. Now that I have painted the entire car, I think I could paint one damaged area rather quickly... even the whole car again if needed. Plus Rick, the gentleman who did the $50 paint job write up, posted pictures of his car at 4 months, 8 months and a year after his paint job was complete. He shows no signs of anything past normal wear and tear on his paint. His car, just like mine, is a daily driver and is parked outside nightly. However, he did finish his paint job with some heavy sanding and a polish.
As for seeking a professional paint job after having performed this one, I dont think so. That was the purpose of doing this myself! To not have to pay someone else to do it! If you are thinking of getting a professional paint job on your car in the future after having done this to it, perhaps you should seek some knowledge from the paint shop first.
Again, is this a method you would use on a rare collector car? No.
On a professionally built show car? No.
Should you do this to the old beater VW Beetle you have out back? Sure!
What about the $500 car you just bought for your son or daughter? Perfect!!!
Please, read this write up in its entirety and ask any questions you may have before jumping into the project. I would reccommend trying this on a test piece such as an old fender or maybe even your lawn mower before attempting to paint your car with this method.
With all of that being said, please take a look at the picture below. As you can see the final result yielded some brush strokes. That is about as bad as any of the spots where you can see the brush strokes. A small price to pay for a $75.00 paint job!
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Oh, and here's a tip. Do not paint your car garden furniture green. Everybody, and I mean everybody, recognises it, and everybody, absolutely everybody, even strangers walking past, comments "that looks like somebody painted it with garden furniture paint" and look smug just like they solved the Da Vinchi code.
Absolutely everybody.
Mike
Interesting to know if Galmet is the same
http://www.rustoleum.com.au/contact.asp
Thankyou I would like to look at your job. You say you have to get your "spray technique just so". The idea of my project is no spray, all with a 4" brush
Yeah, well, I have chosen this paint because it does a good job as protective paint - rust - and the car I am doing I want around in 20 years time. Its also a car that attracts a lot of attention and is endlessly being vandalised. So this way I can give it new shiney coat every three years or so and repairing replacing a panel is not such a big drama.
Remember you can buy a cheap compressor and spray gun these days for a handful of dollars - and even bad guns will do a better job than a brush. Even a hoover spray gun off a vacuum cleaner does a better job.
Oh! A spray booth? Go buy a 3 metre by 6 metre garden gazebo - and paint the car bit by bit. Use an old vacuum cleaner and a long hose to blow fresh air in your face while you work (still use face filter) - this also introduces clean filtered air into the work area.
I just bought my first car (I'm 17, got a '98 Mustang) and it could use a paint job.
I have been looking at methods of painting for some time and was going to just give in and buy an airbrush, until I saw this. It seems like exactly what I want!
I do have some questions, however, hopefully you (or someone here) can help:
Firstly, there is some minor body damage on the driver door, I'm going to fix it with bondo, but I was wondering if there was any special steps I needed to do for the bondo. Do I need to primer it like I would bare metal, or treat it like the rest of the car?
Second, I am planning on applying a custom vinyl graphic to the side of the car, it's self adhering and all that good stuff, but I was wondering if this paint would, maybe, not be able to hold the weight of the graphic. I know this is sort of a stupid question, but I just wanted to get your opinion about applying a graphic to this paint job.
Hope to have pics up as soon as I can complete this project! Thank you so much!
As for painting on bondo, I honestly have no idea.
Is it possible to paint the bumpers with this method too? My bumpers are plastic soft bumpers but they need new paint as well. Can I use the same method as stated in your writeup? Sand the paint off, then paint as normal?
BUT, you're trying at your own risk!
I'm assuming that because I'm stripping it down to bare metal and then primer-ing, it will be much easier to paint.
Any ideas? Would you still recommend 6 coats of the color, or would I need less because of the primer (or because of the spray gun)?
BTW, I love the tutorial - I've read it several times in the past when I had the idea to do my old Chevy Blazer in Biohazard Yellow =)
I do know that there is a very knowledgable person on this site named PFred that may interject his thoughts on your question...
been use rustolem for years it work get on all my trucks and trailer up here in the salt and snow
good luck with your car
Thanks for the props on the write up. One of these days I'll update it...
The stuff smells a bit like rubbing alcohol to me but it actually stains the metal blue after it has been applied.
When I spray paint a car I am done in 2 to 3 base coats. If I clear coat it another 1 or 2 coats of that. The famous come back to hearing 17 coats of hand rubbed lacquer is, what were the first 16 practice? 6 coats isn't quite as funny, but almost!