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Step 4Parts List
Did I mention how many parts are needed? A lot. And no, I'm not interested in making up kits - I just don't have the time! All the electronics can be obtained from three sources: Digikey, Mouser, and DealExtreme. Apologies to you folks living outside of North America, you're on your own...
UNIQUE ITEMS:
A donor guitar - should be solid core, either a regular electric or electric bass.
A few scraps of wood - for building the sensor and laser blocks
Spray paint, in your choice of colours (only necessary if you strip and refinish the guitar)
Something to make a pick guard from (if your guitar doesn't have one that can be used or re-used)
A case of some sort for the power supply (project box or something custom-made)
DealExtreme:
Four 10 mW green laser pointers (if you live in the States, get 5mW lasers because 10mW is apparently illegal) In hindsight, a red laser would probably work just was well, but it just doesn't have that "cool factor..."
Mouser and Digikey:
Everything else comes from here. I used all metal film resistors for better tolerances (and in some cases, to get just the right value). Use ceramic and aluminum electrolytic capacitors for the power supply bypass capacitors, and higher quality polypro caps for the audio-signal capacitors. Any of the specialty components, such as the phototransistors, relays and ICs are marked on the schematic.
UNIQUE ITEMS:
A donor guitar - should be solid core, either a regular electric or electric bass.
A few scraps of wood - for building the sensor and laser blocks
Spray paint, in your choice of colours (only necessary if you strip and refinish the guitar)
Something to make a pick guard from (if your guitar doesn't have one that can be used or re-used)
A case of some sort for the power supply (project box or something custom-made)
DealExtreme:
Four 10 mW green laser pointers (if you live in the States, get 5mW lasers because 10mW is apparently illegal) In hindsight, a red laser would probably work just was well, but it just doesn't have that "cool factor..."
Mouser and Digikey:
Everything else comes from here. I used all metal film resistors for better tolerances (and in some cases, to get just the right value). Use ceramic and aluminum electrolytic capacitors for the power supply bypass capacitors, and higher quality polypro caps for the audio-signal capacitors. Any of the specialty components, such as the phototransistors, relays and ICs are marked on the schematic.
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Just kidding nice project, might work on a variation as a side project =D
I Have An Unlucky Time With Circuts That Are Complicated.
Thanks