Starting with the SHOCKING REVELATION THAT....
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Signing UpStep 1: For a microcontroller, the Arduino is NOT CHEAP!
1. the Arduino is NOT a cheap microcontroller!
When Arduino-lovers like me say "Wow, the Arduino is such a cheap microcontroller!" this is not strictly true -- it is very cheap for what it is, but type "microcontroller" into Mouser's search box and you will find microcontrollers that cost 30 cents, not 30 dollars.
thats because....
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In regards of this quote from the tutorial, can the ATmega chip be clocked by a faster crystal, say, 40MHz, or is 16MHz the limit? Thanks!
It's the same thing than an arduino but it only has 8kB of flash, bust trust me, it's enought for most of you projects. I have a bunch of them and put them everywhere.
The cost isn't that much greater:
ATMEGA328P $2.24
Crystal 16MHz: $0.46
(2 )Ceramic Disc Capacitors 22pF: $0.22
Optiloader: free sketch
Total: $2.92 for a 16MHz microprocessor running standard arduino bootloaders. Can be bootloaded and programmed w/ a $30 UNO.
Now I just want to find a cheap battery solution. I wish they sold 5V a dime a dozen like AA. If anyone knows of anything let me know. I'd prefer to just have to hook it up w/o any other wiring.
http://www.techsupplies.co.uk/epages/Store.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/Store.TechSupplies/Products/AXE200
- Ray
Other than that. let-s not forget arduino is the one that started the fashion of low cost dev boards.
(from someone who never used one, just AVR micros).
I was wondering why the second GND (pin 8) was'nt connected... I'm working on a board with a SMD atmega328 with 2 GND and 2 VCC and I really don't know what to do... Please help!
"how to make blinking LED"
without arduino
for $3
Under one dollar if you know where to look.
By the way Avnet also seemed to offer a coupon (free shipping for TI parts prders over $20) but it's broken. But $8 shipping regardless of whether it's one package or ten is pretty fair.
There more compatible with HTML5 and other fun stuff(like processingjs)
And most communications don't require all chips to run at the same speed or to share the same clock. Just a clock for the bus itself sometimes.
"Arduino is an open-source electronics prototyping platform..."
The only mention of microcontroller on the site is where they reference the one "on the board." It's also all open source, hence all the arduino clones out there. It also comes with a USB connection to talk to the chip so you can output information to your computer, comes with a barrel plug for external power and other things.
When I first started I looked at the Parallax, PIC, AVR and Arduino. Yes, straight AVR is cheaper but to be as robust as the Arduino, you'll probably end up spending about as much (if not more) by just buying an Arduino. Also I thought it was pretty common knowledge that you could do what you describe though I'd probably throw in a few more things (like a crystal) on most of my projects.
Voila, an ISP programmer, always-handy USB to serial converter and easy quick prototyping environment.
Hook up fresh AVR to power, hook up the ISP lines to the Arduino, program it to use the internal 8MHz clock without the /8 divider setting.
If I want to upload things to it, I can use a $5 USB to serial cable - or I can just use my Arduino once again. Set the Arduino IDE to Lilypad, upload.
You can even use the FTDI chip to program a fresh chip inserted into your Arduino.
If you have a single bootstrap chip that already has the Lilypad bootloader (or the normal Arduino one and a crystal) or an FTDI breakout (they're $5-ish these days anyway), you don't even need the Arduino.
$8 for an Arduino basically - maybe $10 if you include support components. That's $5 per Arduino if you reuse that very same USB to serial device.
Yup, you're getting 5 Arduinos for the price of one. A little less if you want them to run at 16MHz - you'll need a crystal for each.
It's a bit pricey at $79.99 ... and you could probably pick up the parts for less than half that...but their documentation, code samples, etc are all a very big help to a beginner like myself...
The instructions were really good...and it gives a really good intro into electronics...and a basic intro into C programming.
My first project was a digital thermometer of sorts... that reads out to the LCD screen that it comes with...
I've been considering the Arduino until I realized myself that the chip is the exact same thing that came with the Nerdkit ...and I have everything I need to get started...and that the Arduino just gives you a simplified interface to the controller....which is just extra bloat if you're building something in a small package...
Good article... thanks!
(Also, isn't the chip a bit happier if you also ground Pin 8? The drawing's prettier if you don't, but on a breadboard it's just another jumper wire.)
srry, french grammar nazi
Wouldn't Italian be more appropriate though?
thanks
on that page there is a file you can add to the arduino hardware folder so u dont need to use an external oscillator
thanks
Some people use an ardiuno and only use 2 or 3 pins of it. Then you can use an attiny and it will safe a lot of space.
And with a simple breadboard, you don't need those breadboardstype plugs cause most people only use those to link the arduino wit a breadboard. So just plug the microcontroller into the breadboard and program it there.
I am not against Arduino, I just find it a waste of money.
Still it is cheaper than the basicstamp stuff they sell at parallax.
saves space time and money
and whats that bad about 8 mhz instead of 16 mhz?, not much diference!
thank you very much,
tm
I followed the how to program an AVR with arduino instructable. The wiring diagram was wrong and my chips got real hot (but lived)! I fixed it by using the diagram from arduino.cc.
I had to modify the registry because AVRDUDE wouldn't go to com15. I set it to com4. Turns out there is an easier way: http://createforums.irobot.com/irobotcreate/board/message?board.id=Create_Support&message.id=415
Note: The blank chips come set with the internal oscilator and run at 1mhz.
Then I had some issues with the fuses. Below is the final cmd file that works for me. Sets the fuses, burns the bootloader and locks the flash memory.
Warning 1, once you run the last command, you may not be able to undo what you did without a high voltage programmer. (But if you don't do it, the first program you upload will overwrite the boot loader.)
Warning 2, this assumes you have hooked up a 16mhz oscilator and don't want to use the internal 8mhz (lower power) clock.
ardunioTo168p.cmd
-------------8<------------
@echo off
REM Thanks to http://www.billy.gr/arduino-bootloader/
avrdude -p m168 -c avrisp -b 19200 -P com4
echo enter to continue, CTRL-C to exit. Hit enter if you see 0x1e940b
pause
REM Unlock the bootloader
avrdude -p m168 -c avrisp -b 19200 -P com4 -F -U lock:w:0x3F:m
REM Program the fuses
avrdude -p m168 -c avrisp -b 19200 -P com4 -F -U lfuse:w:0xff:m -U hfuse:w:0xdd:m -U efuse:w:0x00:m
REM upload the bootloader
avrdude -p m168 -c avrisp -b 19200 -P com4 -F -U flash:w:ATmegaBOOT_168_diecimila.hex
REM Lock the bootloader
echo run
echo avrdude -p m168 -c avrisp -b 19200 -P com4 -F -U lock:w:0x0F:m
echo when you are sure you want to lock the bootloader. You might not be able to undo this.
Great instructable, some others have pointed out, in passing, that this could be done but this should get more traffic and save some more people from spending $30 for every Arduino project they do. :)
I never used arduino's for the same reason. I just buy the Atmega or attiny that I like. Some attiny's only cost 1euro so they are very cheap and often more than good enough for what you need.
And I you like to use the arduino as programmer or developmenttool (that's what is made for), thats ok but remove the atmega uC to integrate in you project and reuse the arduinoboard to program another uC.