The radial arm saw is a very versatile machine around which a whole shop can be built. It is one machine that allows a number of operations normally requiring different specific machines. Unfortunately, electric miter saws have displaced the radial arm saw. That is probably because many used a radial as only a glorified miter saw or cut-off saw. This Instructable will pull together in one place a number of Instructables demonstrating various capabilities of a radial arm saw, as well as some dealing with wear and maintenance issues. Just click on the hot links in the frames below.
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Signing UpStep 1: Aligning the saw
The radial arm saw has several adjustments that need to be aligned properly for accurate cuts. These do have indexed settings. The owner/operator must set these properly. They include setting the tilt of the motor so the blade is 90 degrees to the table. The arm can swing and must be set so it is 90 degrees to the table's fence. The most cumbersome adjustment in my experience is getting the arm 90 degrees to the fence. But, with a slight revision of the process outlined in the owner's manual and an addition to the table, it is not difficult at all. In use vibration can change the settings of any saw a little. The the saw needs to be checked occasionally to make certain the arm is still square to the fence.
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I will install the fence such that the blade is clear of it and toward the column at the end of a cut.
As for the ripping scales - it seems very odd for the product to pass through the production tests with such a flaw?! I was thinking of installing two metal rulers once my fence is in place so that I can rip without marking the wood before hand.
Thanks again for your help and advice - I really appreciate your time.
Joe.
(apologies for the fresh post - the captcha wouldn't let me reply)
Your Ryobi may have more sturdy indicators on the rip scales than my Sears Craftsman saw. The least bump moves the pointers. That saw also came with color-coded control knobs to make using it easier. The knob with the yellow dot in the center controls the angle scale with the yellow pointer. I always said if you need that kind of help you have no business owning the saw.
Enjoy your saw.
Please feel free to ignore this - I'm sure you are a busy man!
I am having trouble understanding the start points of the in-rip and out-rip scales in order to work out where my fence should be. It is a hard question to phrase in writing and so here is a small (20mb) vid of what I mean.
Any light you could shed would be fantastic but please don't feel obliged!
Many Thanks,
Joe.
Thank you for the video. That helps to understand your dilemma. The in rip and out rip scales on the saw arm are virtually useless for most practical purposes. The only time I have used them has been when I was ready to rip something and wanted to test the position of the blade in comparison with where my mark was. If I found I needed to move the blade out or in three or five millimeters (I actually work with inches, but you get the idea.), I checked to see where one of the rip pointers was on the scale and used it to determine how far to move the saw on the arm in order to achieve the difference I needed.
But, your real question is where to locate the front of the table and the fence that rides against it. When you are making crosscuts, you want to be able to push the saw away from yourself toward the column so the spinning blade is forward of the fence. Then you can move one piece of wood off of the table safely and get ready for a cut in a new piece of wood, etc. That will mean positioning the fence so it is about 12 to 15 centimeters toward you from the near surface of he column. Also, your saw table will be wide enough to hang over the table supports at the rear of the saw (nearest side to you) so the edge of the table nearest you is about 4 or 5 centimeters beyond the outmost position of the blade on the out rip setting. I hope this helps. Let me know if I need to load up a photo.
I actually measured the distance between the column and the side of the fence nearest to the column. It is a little greater than I thought, that is about 20 cm. The blade on my saw is 10 inches, or about 25 cm.
When ripping on a table saw, you make sure that you cut all the way through your work by ensuring that the saw is lifted above the top surface of the work. On a radial arm saw though, the saw blade would enter the table to get the same effect. This would (over time) destroy the table. I imagine that the aim is to only just skim the surface of the table? If this is the case then the majority of the cutting action of the blade is horizontal as opposed to vertical. This would give each tooth a longer time to cut and reduces splinter lift, but increases the likelihood of kick back dramatically. Could you let me know your thoughts on this? One solution I did think about would be to build a sliding fence and have holes in the table for the blade spaced at about 200mm?
Thanks very much for any insights,
Joe.
When you go to a radial arm saw after being accustomed to a table saw, some things are strange and just do not seem right. But, they do work just fine.
After you set up and align your new saw one of the first things you will do is to set the saw in the in rip position, start the motor, lower the blade about 1/16 inch into the table, and slowly drag the motor out away from the fence to make a shallow trough in the top of the saw table. You will want to stop the saw, raise the blade about 1/8 inch and swivel the motor to the out rip position. Move the motor so the blade is over the trough you have already cut. Lower the saw with the motor off until the teeth on the blade just begin to bind on the saw table. Raise the motor a few thousandths if an inch. Start the motor and drag the blade across the rest of the table to complete the trough. Whenever you rip a piece of wood, lower the blade until the teeth touch the table. The raise the blade until it spins freely by hand. Set your guards and anti-kickback paws for the thickness of the wood you are ripping. Start the motor and rip your wood. Use pusher sticks where safety is a concern.
The only time kickback is a concern is when the blade heels, the wood is gummy with pitch, or the edge of the work piece you are cutting is not true and binds between the fence and the blade. If you have kickback problems, something is not properly set up. In my experience, you can just about take your hands off of the work piece mid-cut and the work piece does not move even though the blade is spinning. I would not recommend doing this, but you could.
Enjoy your new saw. Respect it, but you need not fear it.
I have a 1950's vintage DeWalt radial arm saw that came from my grandfather. I've had it for 40 years and used it for all kinds of projects. It still works great. A few months ago, I had to replace the original key switch. That's the only repair I've had to do.
It took me 3 days of a weekend to dismantle and repair it but now it runs and works great i still have to make a descent table for it but for 25 bucks im satisfied
It makes me happy to see you have one in such very good condition
Thumbs up for this guide to
Thanks
Thanks for the note. If you scroll down in the comments, you will see I gave dimensions and a hole location diagram for making a saw table. These are based on the factory original I replaced a few months ago.
I think there are a few linked Instructables in my "Guide" that will help you if you find wear in the yoke indexing pin holes and if you need a new switch.
My saw is in good condition because I am the only owner and because it never was taken to a job site, but was always in my workshop.
You should get a lot of enjoyment from it. Different parts sometimes show up on eBay, if you need them.
Congratulations on acquiring some good woodshop equipment. If I could give a handful of advice, safety rules you learned with the table saw will serve you well on a radial. When in doubt, use pusher sticks. I keep my body parts at least 6 inches away from the blade or cutting device and I am careful about how I am leaning so my body does not move into the blade's path in the case of losing balance, etc. Always think about what would happen if the blade caught a knot or pitch in the wood and propelled the motor carriage backward toward you on a crosscut. (On rips the motor is locked down and does not move.) I use a carbide blade and try to keep most of my body out of the cutting line in case the blade would throw a tooth. As I mentioned to someone else, keep the saw aligned so the blade does not heel, increasing the likelihood the motor could be thrust toward you or the blade could throw a workpiece. When pulling the motor for a crosscut, keep your elbow locked and pull with your shoulder. Use plenty of roller supports when ripping large sheets. Have an assistant to pull the sheet off of the table while you are pushing it onto the table. This advice is free and worth every bit of that. Thanks for your comment.
I've been using my table saw and radial arm saw for nearly 20 years, and they scare the hell out of me. Even my drill press has the potential to hurt me badly. This forces me to do one of two things: use them very very carefully or not use them at all.
Great write-up, Phil. I rarely use the radial arm saw outside of crosscutting because getting it square again is such a pain. Will try your stuff soon. Thanks.
I never forget what could happen if my flesh gets in the way of a power tool, especially a power saw. A friend recently failed to use a pusher stick with a table saw when he should have, and now has a bad cut in the end of a finger. He says he knew better, but became sloppy.
You are obviously a good craftsman and I respect the time you have taken to pass on your knowledge.
However gloves should never be worn when using any power tool, that scuffed skin could have become a broken wrist or an amputated finger if you had been wearing gloves. Where skin will cut a tougher glove may catch and draw in.
One of the first lesson you learn at a trade school is when using power tools, no gloves, no jewelery, no rings.
Cheers
Joel
http://www.instructables.com/id/Radial-Arm-Saw-Overhaul-Modification-for-Low-Pro/
But, the saw should survive the winter and be ready to go when my fingers thaw!