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Step 2Seat Contruction
I started with this section because the dimension for everything else scale off this.
I drew a 46" diameter circle on the garage floor in chalk and I worked with my 10 year old son to find a comfortable and practical riding position. I traced his body and measured for the seat dimensions.
Start with the seat sides. They are made from 3/4" plywood. Draw the pattern on the plywood and cut them out. Be sure you make a right and left hand version. Drill all holes as shown on the plans. I routed a groove into the sides to accept the seat parts, but this is probably not required and may be difficult to do by hand. The top bar is 1" copper pipe with end caps. I thought it would brace the side from bending in and give something to grab while getting in. I drilled flat bottom holes the diameter of the pipe caps about a 1/4" deep. I ran self tapping screws through the sides and into the cross bar to secure it.
Cut the (3) seat parts and the (2) cross members that join them together. Screw them together. Handle the seat carefully until is is bolted to the sides.
Place one chassis side on the ground with the inside facing up. Put the better side of the plywood towards the inside. Place the seat and screw strips in place. The screw strips screw to the sides and to the seat. Double check everything, then screw and glue the screw strips to the sides. Repeat this process for the other side. Make sure it will be an identical but opposite version of the first. Now screw and glue the seat assmebly to the sides.
Just in case some things have shifted a little during assmebly I suggest making a paper or cardboard test version of the center console, so you can make adjustments if needed. Be sure the pedal holes align with the sides. Cut two of these making a right hand and left hand version. Screw and glue to the seat. I put an optional cap/arm rest on this and a copper grab handle.
Install the pipe flanges and pipe pieces for the wheel axels. I used tee nuts.
Install the top cross bar. I used copper pipe, but anything strong in compression will work like a dowel rod.
Now find some way to take it for a test swing. I used (2) work tables as shown in the picture. Make sure it is strong and safe before you climb in.
Possible Improvements: The seat sits awfully low. Raising would give more clearance, but it might be tippier.
Attachements:
DXFs.zip 2D drawing of most of the parts
Drawings.pdf PDF versions of the drawings.
Steamroller.skp: Sketchup export of the 3D model
Steamroll_asm.zip. A STEP file export of the 3D model.
I drew a 46" diameter circle on the garage floor in chalk and I worked with my 10 year old son to find a comfortable and practical riding position. I traced his body and measured for the seat dimensions.
Start with the seat sides. They are made from 3/4" plywood. Draw the pattern on the plywood and cut them out. Be sure you make a right and left hand version. Drill all holes as shown on the plans. I routed a groove into the sides to accept the seat parts, but this is probably not required and may be difficult to do by hand. The top bar is 1" copper pipe with end caps. I thought it would brace the side from bending in and give something to grab while getting in. I drilled flat bottom holes the diameter of the pipe caps about a 1/4" deep. I ran self tapping screws through the sides and into the cross bar to secure it.
Cut the (3) seat parts and the (2) cross members that join them together. Screw them together. Handle the seat carefully until is is bolted to the sides.
Place one chassis side on the ground with the inside facing up. Put the better side of the plywood towards the inside. Place the seat and screw strips in place. The screw strips screw to the sides and to the seat. Double check everything, then screw and glue the screw strips to the sides. Repeat this process for the other side. Make sure it will be an identical but opposite version of the first. Now screw and glue the seat assmebly to the sides.
Just in case some things have shifted a little during assmebly I suggest making a paper or cardboard test version of the center console, so you can make adjustments if needed. Be sure the pedal holes align with the sides. Cut two of these making a right hand and left hand version. Screw and glue to the seat. I put an optional cap/arm rest on this and a copper grab handle.
Install the pipe flanges and pipe pieces for the wheel axels. I used tee nuts.
Install the top cross bar. I used copper pipe, but anything strong in compression will work like a dowel rod.
Now find some way to take it for a test swing. I used (2) work tables as shown in the picture. Make sure it is strong and safe before you climb in.
Possible Improvements: The seat sits awfully low. Raising would give more clearance, but it might be tippier.
Attachements:
DXFs.zip 2D drawing of most of the parts
Drawings.pdf PDF versions of the drawings.
Steamroller.skp: Sketchup export of the 3D model
Steamroll_asm.zip. A STEP file export of the 3D model.
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Jun 17, 2009. 1:27 PMdeemax
says:
Is it difficult to find the perfect spot for the wheel axle in order to maintain the right balance, or will it balance automatically as long as the center of gravity is anywhere beneath this point?
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4
Jun 24, 2009. 6:27 AM
bdring (author)
says:
bdring (author)
says:
I drew it in chalk on the floor and estimated the CG. Some small kids use a pillow behind them so they can reach the pedals. This shifts the CG forward, so I added a little shelf behind the seat to add weight. So far one 10 pound-ish brick does the trick. Big adults with higher CG tend to ride with feet high, but it works fine.
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Jun 27, 2009. 3:15 PMdeemax
says:
Thanks! That shelf for extra weights is a great idea.
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