Parts you need:
- A salad bowl (as the stand)
- A solar garden light with LED
- A big bulb
- Some copper tubes, fittings and parts
- A switch
- Some pieces of wood
- Some brass applikations
- Brass screws, bold´s and nuts.
Remove these ads by
Signing UpStep 1: The bulb and the stand
Drill and cut some holes for the bulb, the switch, the holder and the solar panel








































Visit Our Store »
Go Pro Today »




I read that a minium of a 3 Watt LED needs to be used in order to be a grow light.
its only a night light it will not help the plants grow.
Regards,
H. Steam
could you elaborate a little bit?
What plants are growing in this cool setup?
Thanks!
Regards,
H. Steam
• Acorus gramineus ‘Pusilus’
• Adiantum raddianum
• Aluminum Plant (Pilea Cadierei)
• Asparagus densiflorus ‘Sprengeri’
• Asparagus Fern (Asparagus Plumosus)
• Asplenium nidus
• Baby’s Tears (Helxine Soleirolii)
• Begonia ‘Tiger Paws’
• Callisia
• Chamaedorea elegans
• Cissus discolor
• Codiaeum
• Cryptanthus Acaulis C. bivittatus C. Bromelioides C. zonatius
• Dracaena reflex acv
• Dracaena sanderiana
• Emerald Ripple (Peperomia Caperata)
• Espiscia
• Ficus pumila ‘Variegata’
• Ficus pumilia
• Fittonia verschaffeltii
• Gold Dust Plant (Dracaena Godseffianna)
• Hedera (miniatures)
• Hypoestes phyllostachya
• Hypoestes phylostachya ‘Splash’
• Maranta leuconeura
• Nertera granadensis
• Nerve Plant (Fittonia)
• Parlor Palm (seedling) (Chamaedorea Elegans)
• Pellaea rotundifolia
• Pellionia daveaunana
• Peperomia caperata
• Pilea cadierei P. spruceana
• Plectranthus oertendahllii
• Ribbon Plant (Dracaena Sanderiana)
• Saintpaulia (miniatures)
• Sansevieria trifasciata ‘Hahnii’
• Scheffleria elegantissima (seedlings)
• Selaginella
• Selaginella kraussiana ‘Aurea’
• Selaginella martensii
• Soleirolia soleirolii
• Strawberry Geranium (Saxifraga Sarmentosa)
• Strobilanthes dyerianus
• Syngonium hoffmanii
• Tradescantia cerinthoides. T. fluminensis. T. spathacea.
• Variegated Peperomia (PeperomiaObtusifolia Variegat)
Please see also the q&A in step 1
When the bulb is blown (by person or machine) a small spot at the base is left for later sealing. This can be broken off (and the vacuum released) without the bulb breaking. This is due to both the thicker glass here and the smaller hole that slows down the airflow.
Cut, carve or drill into the base of the bulb, between the cylindrical 'screw' area and the center contact. When you break the base you will hear air hissing in, unless your Dremel, drill or whatever is too loud.
For this project, continue until everything below the screw-threaded section is gone, pulling out the filaments and support arms. Move carefully here to prevent scratching the inside of the glass; if you do have a single scratch, that can become the bottom of the display.
You can then replace the cut-off bottom with modeling clay or similar, or screw the bulb into a socket. The end must be sealed to keep the water in the environment.
If your bulb has a phosphor coating, place some sand or other mild abrasive inside the bulb and swirl it around. Dispose of this carefully, some of the phosphors are chemically dangerous in large doses. Ordinary trash is OK for disposal, just as it is for incandescent light bulbs.
If you want to experiment with other types of bulbs, be aware that ALL fluorescent bulbs contain mercury, even the 'green end' and CFL types. Check your local regulations for proper disposal of mercury.
In the method you describe there is a fair chance that the cut will be below the glass and you will have to move up higher on the brass foot to cut into the glass. But eventually that will work though. However there will be a fair chance yr dremel will make longitudinal cracks, that could crack yr entire bulb.
Not sure iff All bulbs contain mercury. I opened a number of standard filament bulbs and there was really nothing inside that could contain any mercury or it must have been the metal wires going to the filament
And THANK YOU for the warning!!!!
Regards,
H. Steam
Wouldn't the plants be unable to photosynthesize without a source of CO2?
The respiration process is the opposite of photosynthesis. You need something to produce CO2 and eat O2
See graphic here: http://bit.ly/p30CWN
Short term, there should be sufficient CO2 in the volume to support ongoing plant growth.(days weeks months?)
The moss inside the bulb is still growing since 3 month.
There is also some earth inside and I think, that the micro-organism inside will produce enough CO2.
With kind regards,
H. Steam
Thanks for sharing!
How exactly is this done without removing the copper foot?
Or am I missing something here?
You can use anything to build such a garden even a bong. :-)
By the way this is a good idea!
With kind regards,
H. Steam
I hope that will help a bit to understand how they will work:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bottle_garden
See also the links below the article.
With kind regards,
H. Steam