Ever put a tightly filled balloon in the freezer, then come back and see it largely shrunken? Once you bring it back out into a warm room it expands again. Now what if we could use that expanding and contracting for moving a piston... and you've got the general idea. If you heat the air, it expands, if you cool it it contracts. It's a very simple idea, for a very simple engine.
let's get building!
here' s the video of the build and the engine working!
Remove these ads by
Signing UpStep 1: Materials
hacksaw
utility knife
drill
plyers (long nose)
wire cutters
drill bits 1/16, 5/32, 1/2-3/4
drawing compass
ruler
Materials:
CD and case / large plastic jar lid
10x5 inch piece of steel or aluminum two 5x5 pieces are fine, needs to have some thickness
CD tower (or even better) a LARGE 5 inch wide glass bottle. (see picture)
EPOXY (JB weld/ JB kwik AND regular, cheap epoxy. If it says non shrink, don't get it!)
*there's been a lot of issue with epoxy, I never realized different epoxies would cause such a difference, so I've added a picture of the epoxy. Here's one place to buy it: www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/products_id/37084/n/Bob-Smith-Industries-MID-CURE-15-Minute-Epoxy-9oz Hopefully this clears up the issues!
wire (welding rod is preferred, Stainless steel is best) 1/16 inch stainless or 1/8 steel - MUST BE SMOOTH and straight!
7 inches of PVC pipe
Foam board (5x10 inches or more, two 5x5 pieces are fine)
3/4" copper pipe
oil
(optional)
hotglue and glue gun
fan weights


















































Visit Our Store »
Go Pro Today »




very nice project !
buy (or make) and heat it with solar magnifying frensel lenses:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TLJXJ8/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_2/179-1042328-6808164?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_r=048JWZX1DNH32YAV99BF&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_p=486539851&pf_rd_i=B003JOS5VK
Here is some more info on Stirling engines.
A Small Free-Piston S t i r l i n g R e f r i g e r a t o r
http://www.archive.org/details/nasa_techdoc_19860012245
by
A. K. de Jonge
(14th I n t e r s o c i e t y Energy Conversion Engineering Conference,
Boston, Mass, Aug. 5-10, 1979)
what should i do?
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/13/6/epxy_qset_s/overview/Loctite-Epoxy-Quick-Set.htm
I realize you said not to use the 5 minute kind, but I did not see any thermal contraction issues when it was setting. On the contrary the epoxy seemed to bond to the copper. Is this because I did not put a sufficient coating of oil on the pipe? I used wd-40. I also pre-mixed it before pouring it in.
If you did You need to run a file around the inside to stop the edges catching.
I mixed all of it and packed it into the plastic tube it came in, it does not stick to the plastic and is easy cut out once it hardens.
The hardened epoxy bar reads 25.1mm on the calipers or 63 / 64 in old money.
I have just bought a mini lathe and the first project I intend to do is a Stirling built from scavenged PC parts.