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Step 5Drill n' glue
Here's where problems can creep up if done wrong, they're not critical... just EXTREMELY annoying. Using your small drill bit (the one that matches the rod you're using, in this case 1/16") drill in the CENTER of one of the plates (whichever will be the top plate) Stick the rod through and make sure it's a nice SMOOTH fit. If it doesn't seem to fit do three things:
1- run the bit through the hole again to make sure it's clear
2- file/sand down the edge of the wire to make sure it's not de-formed and causing the problem
3- if it just doesn't fit, try wiggling the plate around a bit to widen the hole.
Once that's fine, cut an inch of either pipe or 1" C stock, or angle stock (I used angle stock) This is because, in order to maintain efficiencies, we need to be as air tight as possible, yet smooth. If you were wiggling the wire around, you may have noticed that it tends to "stick" when at any angle. We need to keep it perpendicular, and that's what we'll do. Anyways, secondly, cut a small square (or circle) of metal from the scraps you cut off while making the plates. Drill a hole in the center of it (as seen in the first picture)
Move the piece of angle stock or whatever so it "centers" around the hole. Glue down with epoxy.
Poke the wire through the hole and the small square, make sure it still slides smoothly, and glue down. As the epoxy cures, periodically check to make sure it still moves freely and adjust if necessary. (if worst comes to worst and the wire "freezes" up, re-drill the top hole with the next sized bit. Avoid if possible)
Finally, near the edge, (see picture 4 & 5 ) drill a 1/2"-3/4" inch hole. As long as the pipe you're using for the cylinder doesn't fall through it, you'll be ok. Make it as big as possible though!
1- run the bit through the hole again to make sure it's clear
2- file/sand down the edge of the wire to make sure it's not de-formed and causing the problem
3- if it just doesn't fit, try wiggling the plate around a bit to widen the hole.
Once that's fine, cut an inch of either pipe or 1" C stock, or angle stock (I used angle stock) This is because, in order to maintain efficiencies, we need to be as air tight as possible, yet smooth. If you were wiggling the wire around, you may have noticed that it tends to "stick" when at any angle. We need to keep it perpendicular, and that's what we'll do. Anyways, secondly, cut a small square (or circle) of metal from the scraps you cut off while making the plates. Drill a hole in the center of it (as seen in the first picture)
Move the piece of angle stock or whatever so it "centers" around the hole. Glue down with epoxy.
Poke the wire through the hole and the small square, make sure it still slides smoothly, and glue down. As the epoxy cures, periodically check to make sure it still moves freely and adjust if necessary. (if worst comes to worst and the wire "freezes" up, re-drill the top hole with the next sized bit. Avoid if possible)
Finally, near the edge, (see picture 4 & 5 ) drill a 1/2"-3/4" inch hole. As long as the pipe you're using for the cylinder doesn't fall through it, you'll be ok. Make it as big as possible though!
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Jan 19, 2008. 11:24 AMantidartan
says:
NOW, YOU MENTIONED SHRINKING AND NON SHRINKING EPOXY,for give the caps, what is the benefit of both? without bearings did you have much of a problem running off of the heat of a coffee cup?
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9
Jan 19, 2008. 3:16 PMthecheatscalc (author)
says:
Here's the deal, if the epoxy does not shrink... you'll never get the piston out of the tube or make it work. On the other hand, if it shrinks too much, it'll leak WAY too much and you'll never make it work. So, use just regular 10 minute or more epoxy and you're fine. faster gets hot and shrinks too much As for bearings, it is difficult to run it on a coffee mug. I'm sure with a better piston and bearings it would run a lot better!
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Jan 15, 2008. 5:42 PMyomama1800
says:
hold up i don't get this step can u get pictures of the top plate from all angles please sorry i just cant get the concept of this angle aluminum tytytytytyty :)
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9
Jan 16, 2008. 5:23 AMthecheatscalc (author)
says:
The top plate is very simple it's one hole for the displacer rod, and a 3/4th inch through 1/2 inch hole for the piston. one of the main pictures should be all you need to see... what exactly are you having trouble with? that might make it easier to help...
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2
Dec 22, 2007. 4:41 PMSpinWard
says:
Is that the JB weld that a friend of mine keeps talking about?
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2
Dec 22, 2007. 4:43 PMSpinWard
says:
Oops, nevermind. Didn't read far enough. Sorry.
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9
Dec 22, 2007. 5:28 PMthecheatscalc (author)
says:
yup, this is the JB kwik, only rated to 400 degrees F instead of 600F... great stuff, if you don't have any, I'd suggest you get some!
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