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The Sunshine Alarm

Step 3Test

Test
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  • Photo 41.jpg
  • Photo 40.jpg
To test out if the Mr. Coffee Timer worked, I put the two hot lines on the inputs (marked Line N and Line L), and connected just one lightbulb socket (with lightbulb) to the hot and the "HTR" output.

Sure 'nuff, the thing works! I can switch 120V AC when I say it'll switch! I harness the power of Tesla!



Later on, I read this in the datasheet:

  • This device was designed for use in a "MR COFFEE" coffeemaker. It is designed to automatically turn on the unit at a predetermined time. It turns off automatically after two hours. It can be adapted for use with other 120 Volt devices that operate on 10 Amps or less.
  • Caution: Be careful when working with 120 Vac lines. You can get a severe electo-shock which can be painful or worse. Do not touch bare wires. Keep wires from touching each other. Unit in should be housed in an enclosure to prevent contact with live wires.
  • Connection: Connect 120 Vac source to terminals marked Line (N) and Line (L). Connect 120 Vac device that you wish to operate (Load) to terminals marked Line (N) and Heater (HTR).
  • Set clock to current time by pressing hour and minute buttons.

Cool! So, the two-hour shutoff means it may not burn down the house. Or at least, other engineers have thought about it so I don't have to.

I'm a bit concerned about the amp rating, though. Some quick math: if I use 60W bulbs, which at 120V draw a half-amp each... I can run 20 of them without tripping this thing out. Awesome! I guess that goes to show exactly how much power gets chewed up by your appliances that produce heat! Thank goodness it still seems important to change your incandescent lightbulbs to CFLs while running your dryer, shower, and electric range to save energy and the environment!

Next step: connecting ~20 light bulbs!
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Hi! I'm Star Simpson! I'm a real me! See more at [http://stars.mit.edu stars.mit.edu]. photo by [http://bea.st/ Jeff Lieberman] (http://bea.st) stasterisk - my name is Star, and when I wa...
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