Introduction: The Toss-O-Tazer

You know those little games where the last person that presses the button gets a little jolt?
Well this little device just plan blows them out of the water. Remember hot potato? Well this is its 21 Century replacement.  Its fun for stupid drunken people, or a really nasty joke on someone you don't like. Originally this was just an idea i had after building another circuit that I used to cut holes in can's or pop light bulbs etc. While building that circuit I got a pretty good shock. And well to top it off I have some really stupid friends that enjoy getting drunk and playing drinking games. This is the evolution in stupidity and drinking games. The Toss-O-Tazer as with all "drinking games" this is for adults that make there own choices and not for children. 

Step 1: Disclaimer

If you are stupid enough to make/copy this device remember the following. 
1. I'm not responsible for you hurting yourself, your friends, or your belonging's
2. I have an Electronics System Technologist Diploma, I understand electricity you likely do not. 
3. I have tested this setup to make sure it isn't lethal in anyway shape or form you should too. 
4. Don't copy this device, trust me I wish I didn't come up with the idea. 
5. Also if someone beats the crap out of you for tossing them a device like this, it isn't my fault!
6. Don't use this device if you have heart issues or a pace maker. 
7. Don't use this device if you are soaking wet. Yes it isn't lethal but you may damage the device or shock more then one person at once. 

Otherwise have fun and be safe. 

Step 2: Materials and Tools Required.

Here is the list of whats needed to complete this project / instructable.

1. Photo Flash Charge Circuit (I got mine from electronicsgoldmine.com)
2. Old Cell phone battery or 2 AA Battery's and a holder. (AAA's will work as well)
3. Soldering Iron 
4. Wire cutters 
5. Solder
6. Hot Glue gun
7. Hot Glue 
8. AT LEAST 2 MULTI-METERS 
9. 1nF 1000v cap
10. Random lengths of wire.
11. Plastic or Card board container
12. Electrical Tape
13. Tin tape (NOT DUCT TAPE)
14. Switch (optional)
 

Step 3: Case Assembly

Let me apologize for this one as I don't have any photos. Ive had this case made for about 3 years and I'm currently out of a tin tape but I will explain the process as well as I possibly can. 

1. Choose a small yet sturdy case. I strongly recommend plastic for its durability compared to card board. Reasoning behind this is you are going to THROW this out of your hand's when you get shocked. So repeated impacts with the ground will likely destroy the container if it isn't durable. Another thing is you should choose a container with a latch so that you can easily open it to change batteries etc. 

2. Choose a 2 sided pattern. You need to be able to separate two different sections of tin tape as one side will have -400ish volts and the other will have +0 Volts (my camera flash generates negative voltage this is why I put +0 volts). As you can see with my container is extremely simple and the 2 "sides" or "layers" are separated by electrical tape. Remember the harder it is to catch this device without being shocked the funner the game will be. 

3. Make sure your tin tape has a point for each layer or side to go inside the container as we have to solder a connection wire to the photo flash charge circuit to it. 

4. Somehow label the device so someone smart can read what the device does so that they don't get shocked and sue you for injuring them. 

5. Cut a hole for a switch (optional) 


Step 4: Circuit Assembly

This part shouldn't really be called circuit assembly per say its more like circuit bending. Now your charge circuit will likely be much different then mine. With that said I'm not going to go into modifying your charge circuit because I have used about 10 different types so far. I was just able to buy about 100 of this type of circuit from electronics gold mine for Dirt cheap! 
Anyways on my circuit I had to remove the Neon Charge lite and add a charge cap (since mine didn't come with them thats why they were so cheap!). On this project I choose a 1nF cap, the larger the cap the more this device will hurt and could very likely be lethal. So in other words use a cap 1nF or less rated for at least 1000v. I have had some camera flash charge circuits come close thats why i say 1000v. Also don't use a battery that has more then 3.7v output you will destroy the transistor on here quickly from too much current. 

1. Connect up your circuit and make the required changes
2. Test everything out make sure you have no shorts
3. Solder your circuit to your inside case tabs
4. Test everything out again to make sure you have no shorts 
5. Hot Glue your switch wires and circuit into place, as well as your battery holder.
6. Hot glue your connections to the case so that they don't break as the tin tape is very brittle.


Note's I have modified this circuit a bit and put in a battery charger for the cell phone battery since the pictures have been taken!
 

Step 5: Confirming Your Device Is Non Lethal... in Other Words Testing.

Here is my biggest rule. 
I test all my painful stupid devices on myself first. But before I do that I confirm that they are non lethal. This device gets no where near the 100mA of current needed to stop someone's heart and thats part of the reason why I chose the photo charge circuit that I did. Just make sure that your charge cap is insanely small. 1nF or less anything more is just dangerous you can build up enough of a charge to burn or kill someone. As I found out when I charged my 2500 uF cap bank up to 320 volts and it discharged into my hand by accident and left a NASTY burn through the palm of my hand. Electricity is not our friend bottom line confirm your device doesnt even come close to 100mA out put when shorted. 

Comments

author
DavidRobertson (author)2011-02-14

You think 100 mA is what you need to stop the heart?!?!?! Try 5mA across the heart.

author

yes its 5mA unprotected by all the skin and flesh.... like when your in surgery.
Have you ever measured your skins resistance?
Do you have a diploma or degree in a electronics related field? and computer sciences doesn't count.

Also... unless you're going to post something constructive please refrain for commenting on my Instructables

author
narcoduck (author)Psycosisnine2011-02-17

The basic rule is to go for 8-10 mA of current as stopping the heart. The resistance of flesh doesn't matter, only the voltage to carry it to the heart. And I DO have a background in ELECTRICAL engineering - High voltage, pulses, all ELECTRICAL, not electronics based.
DavidRobertson's comment is constructive in that it starts discussions about electrical safety - never refuse that with HV.

author
Psycosisnine (author)narcoduck2011-02-17

No...
Because this happens with all "shocking" projects it just turns into a flame war

author
narcoduck (author)Psycosisnine2011-02-18

What happens with all shock projects, and what do you mean by flame war?

author
caitlinsdad (author)2011-02-12

The big boys play with a grenade. pull the pin out and pass it around...

You of course, know to wear gloves before you fire it up?

author
Psycosisnine (author)caitlinsdad2011-02-12

LOL wearing gloves is cheating!
but yes some glove would protect you from the shock!

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Bio: Car Fanatic, DIY Hacker But I'm Super Lazy so dont expect much out of me
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